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Open the tailgate and you will see two screws facing out towards the rear, next to the light cluster. (same for each side).
Remove the screws.
Now here's the tricky (ish) bit. The clusters are held in place by locating pegs. They are push fit, but are quite tight. You must release the upper peg first, by firmly but carefully pulling the cluster away from the body.
Do not try to do the lower one first, as the cluster will tip up with the top peg still secured and you will break the top of the light cluster and possibly damage the paint at the same time!
Once it is off, disconnect the wiring plug to the light cluster and there you have it!
Refitting is a little easier, as all you have to do is line up the pegs and give some firm and even pressure to pop the cluster back into place. Then just refit the two screws.
Currently in martin999's garage:
2011 (11) VW Passat 2.0 TDi SE + options in Island Grey, 2011 (11) Honda CB1000R in Pearl Cool White... oh and a 2004 (54) Secnic II 1.5dCi Dynamique in Ottoman Blue !