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post #24 of (permalink) Old 22nd May 2009 Thread Starter
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Cheers Martin, interesting stuff (read it all LOL - that's me for you - dedicated to learning new things )

I found when researching that they require programming, will need to check if the ICs in the display are EEPROMS or EPROMS just for confirmation of the type.

I agree it is unlikely that either one is goosed based on what I've been reading and discussions I've had.

I think I can identify the earth wire for the display, there are two though, one is an earth, the other an electronic earth. So far as I can tell an electronic earth is one that only connects to earth when the circuit is active.

I intend on running a pure undisturbed earth to the battery earth and testing it along with the existing display earth to create a closed loop and make sure it is doing its' job.
I am also going to check the live feed to see what it is doing when it's active, I reckon the live feed is fine though as the immobiliser light is active with the ignition switched off and the seatbelt and handbrake warning lights flash rapidly along with the immobiliser light when the ignition is switched on.

If an electronic earth is only active when the circuit is receiving a current, surely it must have a related component/switch to activate it?

I have actually had some developments in the display function, it has started coming on, then going off, coming on, then going off, not sure quite what to make of that.....

It also briefly came up with a red coolant temperature warning at the same time when the engine was as good as

I think I have disturbed something, maybe the very thing that is causing this problem (or made it worse), seeing as I have been Rsing about with a lot of stuff I can't be sure exactly what....starting to think it's stemming from the BII box as I resoldered a couple of disturbed connections on it.

Maybe worth throwing a grenade in the car now as i have probo about killed it anyway. Ho hum.

The answer is here somewhere but I can't put my finger on it, wish I knew how to test the circuits at least.

I know I should probo have left the BII box alone but I feel I may have inadvertantly stumbled across the cause somewhere, I was able to replace the capacitors and the power diode on the display PCB without ill-effect so I may see about replacing the replaceable components on the BII box also, if I kill it then the car will be getting torn apart and sold in bits to help fund a better replacement. It just means the Audi will be getting sold for a grand to help pay for the rest of it.

Not like I'm going to get a job any time soon given that nobody will even interview me, so I'm not going to need the Audi anyway, will sorely miss it though, punchy acceleration and bulletproof reliability.
Local council wouldn't even give me an interview for dogsh*t duty so there's little hope for me employment-wise, funny that, I'm a man of a great many talents too.

I think people call it "Jack of all trades" you know the rest. LOL.

I think I said it before but I'll say it again, I will find the problem or kill the car trying as I have very little respect for it and my financial situation is already up the swanny thanks to the government and blind employers who can't spot an ideal candidate. What's another few hundred quid and the loss of my beloved Audi in the grand scheme of things? Nothing, that's what.

Too tired and annoyed to think anymore, probo just as well as I'm going on a fair bit.
Currently in Spanner_Brain's garage:
2001 Grand Espace 2.0 16V privilege, Audi A4 2.8 V6 Quattro
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