Just wanted to say thanks for the info in here, I successfully took the dash off of my wife's 03 Clio yesterday in about an hour, and I am not technically minded. Just wanted to add that there are a couple of tricky catches around the airbag that don't seem to want to come off when you're trying to slide the dash off. After much head-scratching and poking about with screwdrivers a big bang with my fist on the top of the dash directly above the catches at the same time as pulling it forward sorted it. Doing this also popped out the windscreen heating vent cover on the passenger side but it went back in easily enough.
Very easy to clip out the clock display and replace the bulbs (£1.89 each at Halfords).