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Renault Clio 2 - Loose Wiring Loom Cover Cutting Into ECU Loom*FIXED*

175K views 83 replies 54 participants last post by  Paulios 
#1 ·
Hi guys

I read a few posts on this forum and elsewhere on the Internet about the tamper proof black box at the back of the engine working loose and cutting through wires.

I've checked mine out and indeed I also have the same problem. My wires are still intact (just) but I'm wondering how to tighten the box back up? Also my box looks like its lost one half of itself and its lid? It appears I only have the left hand side remaining!

Can anyone confirm this is what it should / shouldn't look like and how to tighten it back up? Thanks. The car is a 2002 plate extreme.

 
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#29 ·
Cool - so they've tried 'taping them up' which hasn't worked as it's misfiring/juddering like mad. So what do I need to be asking them to do - just repair the wires fully?
Bit nervous cos I'm meant to be driving to the Liverpool gave v Everton next Monday, and am worried it's just gonna die on the M62 or something!
 
#30 ·
If bare wires are exposed insulation tape is not very good at repelling water and damp - a good auto-spark should be able to apply good insulation - the heat shrink stuff is very good. It is possible a few sections of the cable may need replaced and good soldering skills go a long way in making a permanent repair.
The last thing you need is for the engine to cut out at an important time like coming out of a junction or overtaking:)
 
#34 ·
Redsmac I still have this problem, madnoel10 has replied (thanks!) to other threads on this subject that I have asked about, I have a ticking vibrating from under my drivers side headlamp area in the engine bay, do you have this as well? madnoel10 said it could be the fuel recirculation relay gone wrong, I have not had a chance to check my clio yet, I only use the car at weekends, as little as possible!

I think our problems are electrical/ecu related and not to do with the coilpack/ignition.
 
#40 ·
For information for others who are suspecting this kind of thing in their clios, the Y reg CLIO 1.2 Grande I have doesn't have this box at the back of the engine as far as I can tell.

It actually has a metal cage to the right of the engine near the battery and this is where all the wires go into it.

However, looking at the insulation on the wires on mine, it still appears that you need to make sure it is well insulated and could chafe a little.
 
#41 ·
Wow guys, thanks for all the replies. I never realised this was such a big problem!

I'm not sure what happened to my original image? I've re-attached it to this post today.

Auto part


Thanks spanner-do for the info. After seeing your post today I have now removed the base of the security box! :d

I applied some self amalgamating tape around the wires where the base had cut through. I think heat shrink sleeving would have have been too difficult to get over the big connector.

Attached is two more pics of the offending item once removed.

Thanks again!

Vehicle
 
#42 ·
I swear this is the same problem I have too! It happens completely at random, and happened alot when it was really hot weather recently. After reading this thread and seeing the pictures, I finally located these black boxes. I've attached a pic and by the look of it, it's showing exposed wire! Not too confident in completely removing it yet though!
 

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#43 ·
I still have the same problem, starts first time, reverse into road, warning light comes on, wont tick over, drive for a while ( fun at lights or in traffic !) and warning light goes off, drives fine, sometimes it doesnt happen at all !

stop somewhere start, hot or cold same thing happens, throttle body, wire harness, who knows, I put it down to being a RENAULT !!!!
 
#44 ·
I hadnt noticed this thread until the recent post bumped it up. I just checked this (mysterious) metal box/cage thing on my Clio and the top just slipped straingt up and off.. to reveal lots of insulation tape around the harness.... a little rubber strip along one edge of one of the access points. and some shaped rubber up inside the bit I removed.

But... question. What is the purpose of this "junction?" of cables that seem protected by some over-chunky metalwork (the box/cage thing)? Also.... considering the top simply slide up and off mine... what is the purpose of what appears to be an over-complicated latch/lock mechanism inside that cage/box??

Everything about it seems over-engineered... unless Im missing the point :)

Cheers :)
 
#45 ·
Hello all,

First post here but hope to become an active member since I now own a Renault Clio 2001 1.2 16v with the usual wiring loom issue.

Now after following the guide on page 2 using a mirror and various tools to push the wheel up and loosen it, after around an hour of hard work and alot of WD40 I am sure I am at the end where it should release the clip and allow me to slide the black box off.

Now the issue is the wheel has totally locked up and wont move up anymore, is this normal, I sprayed the screw that the wheel turns with WD40 and left it over night and will give it another bash tonight but just wondered if anyone else had this problem?

If I look at the very bottom of the black box with a mirror and torch you can see the screw is nearly out (if I am looking at the correct thing) but is damn rusty at the very end.

Any ideas?

Thanks, Sam
 
#46 ·
Back Box fault

Hi wonder if anyone can help??
i have had the same problem as others my coil light has been coming on at slow speeds and sometimes cutting out. if i put my foot down the oil light will go off.

i have found the black box and opened it and all the black coating has worn away, my friend gave the wires a shake and now the coil light is permanently on the dashboard where as before it was give and take when t would come on. the light will not now go off.

it would indicate that the fault is them wires and now the light on all the time maybe it has snapped or come loose?

is it best to get all of the wires replaced etc

any help is is welcome
 
#47 ·
I also have a 2002 Clio, compared to mine you have only lost the top cover, I don't think the right connector has a box cover ? You can't really tighten it up with out te top cover but even then its not very effective - a poorly designed and unnecessary component if you ask me. Also there is no easy way to remove the bottem half shown in your photo. I would tape up the broken insulation on the wires and leave well alone, you don't need the box top half.
 
#48 ·
I have the same problem with my clio. My clio started perfect when engine is cold, but if i stop at a junction after about 20 mins of driving then my car will start to rev a few times on its own, then it cuts out. The engine management light flashes when this happens but the code doesnt store before when i start to engine back up the light dissapears.

Really had enough of this problem now, put me off of buying another renault again. Need to get this problem sorted some how. I have changed the TDC sensor and still have the problem.

Anyone got any advice? I have read about this problem on various forums and alot of people seem to have the problem.

The black box was already removed when i checked it and the wire have already been taped up. I took this tape off and checked the wires and they all seem ok. So taped it back up.

Help and advice would be much appreciated.
 
#50 ·
Wow, I just joined this forum today because my mum has this problem with her Y reg 1.2 Clio II
the dealer told her that it needs a new wiring loom

i can't believe it's so common and that they just try and rinse everyone who has it - can you say recall?

anyway I'm off to have a look at it now, wish me luck.

I just thought I'd post in here to say thanks for the info, great forum, and sorry for the non-informative first post. ;)
 
#51 ·
Hi i have just joined this forum.
I would like to share with you how I solved the problem with the engine management light coming on my daughters Clio 2002.
Symptoms: Oil in air box, management light coming on after de-acceleration and small amount of white emulsified oil inside oil filler cap.
I took the car to an auto electrician and the fault code pointed to the map sensor. This was replaced free of charge as they broke it taking the old one off! This did not cure the problem.
I decided to strip the top half of engine to inspect.
I took the air box/inlet manifold off, and also the rocker cover.
Inside there are 2 adjoined breather tubes from the crankcase these were both blocked. The smaller outlet runs directly to the inlet manifold chamber where the map sensor is located.
So the map sensor was working fine; it was the increased pressure in the inlet manifold triggering the sensor due to the blocked crankcase breather.
I cleaned all components, and used a small drill bit to remove small carbon deposits inside the smaller breather tube.
Also discovered where the oil was coming from. There are 4 or five rocker cover bolts that are inside the main rocker seal or wet joints. These needed to be resealed with silicon joint sealer.
Everything was put back together using new gaskets and seals. Added product called Kalimex K-Seal to the water, which is an engine block and gasket sealer. Flushed the engine using an oil flush product, then replaced oil and filter.
The car is now cured and my daughter is happy.
Having read all previous posts I have found this very useful. The engine wiring loom seems to be the 1st culprit for diagnoses when the engine management light comes on, but this is not always the case.
Lirk
 
#52 ·
hi there,
cant believe how common this problem is!
Ive just had the same issue with the wires being slightly cut.
Got that tested and sorted out (£100) and the car still plays up.
The light comes on (as shown in the pic) and it wont idle properly eventually cutting out. This happens mostly when the engine is warm, eg when sitting at junctions/in traffic/or when stopping for petrol etc.

Took it back to the garage who then told me it was the mapping sensor which is currently on order. They fitted a sensor from their megane courtesy car, however the same is still happening!!!!

Any ideas on what this could be? Its driving me crazy, and i dont want too keep spending money trying to fix it!
 

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#53 ·
Ref 23rd Feb 2010

Hi Beddin90
If your map sensor is showing a fault and the wiring looks OK its best strip down inlet manifold and check breather pipes for blockages. (See my previous post)
If these breathers are blocked this will increase the vacuum within the inlet manifold especially so on de-acceleration, this in turn will trigger the sensor causing the management light to come on. You may find as you accelerate the light will go off. This is because more air is drawn through the throttle body and allowing the sensor to come back into range.

Possible causes of blocked pipes as follows;
Emulsified oil- water in oil usually head gasket
Carbon build up or lack of oil/filter maintenance.
Hope this helps
Kevin (LIRK)
 
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