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Renault Scenic 2 - Repairing High Level Brake Light
After having my Scenic in for a handbrake software recall I got a free safety check (looking for extra work me-thinks : cynic) where the dealer spotted my high level brake light was not working but my other brake lights were.
I was told this was an MOT failure and that a replacement unit was £60 odd since my Scenic had the LED variant - sigh!
After removing and fixing my unit myself here are some instructions for anyone else who may have a similar problem - apologies for any duplication in other threads.
Tools: Screwdrivers (large and small), Soldering iron, Multimeter, Pesky kids
1.) On my Scenic to get to the retaining clips on the Brake light/Rear Washer unit I had to remove some of the internal boot door trim. The part in question runs across the top of the boot and may/may not contain a courtesy light. It simply pulls off (a little force may be required) and then you unclip the power lead to the light to remove it completely.
Note: some people say you can remove the wiring and water feed grommets but I could not get to the retaining clips that way.
2.) This exposes some access holes so you can insert the larger screwdriver to push the bottom of the retaining clips loose. The unit then pushes out.
The top of the clips are a bit of an inteference fit but the bottom parts needed pushing up from the inside to remove them.
3.) Unplug the power lead and then test with a Multimeter for 12V dc when the brake pedal is depressed. For me this necessitated the use of Pesky kids in the front seats to press the brake pedal (as well as playing tunes with the horn and other minor annoying things such as moving mirrors etc.)
4.) If you have no power then it may be a wiring fault - eek. I had 12V so continue to disassemble the light unit. The two retaining clips also hold the PCB in place so use a small screwdriver to free the clips from their mountings which in turn frees the PCB. There is also a white/cream connector which the power lead plugs into. Unclip this and remove the PCB/Connector combination but not before noting the orientation of the connector (the power pins on the connector are 90 degrees different to those of the power lead).
5.) The PCB contains little more than 4 LEDs, 3 Resistors and a Capacitor - not much to go wrong really (or to replace if you have to). In my case the issue was that the PCB power receptors for the pins on the power connector had corroded a bit. I cleaned them up with some wire wool and then retested but the connection was still a bit diffy so I ended up soldering the power connector pins in situ. This worked a treat.
6.) Reassemble the unit and then push it back into position and refit the trim.
In total this takes about 15-20 minutes to do and you can spend your hard earned cash elsewhere - in my case 2 tickets to see Lenny Henry, a Dominos Pizza and a bottle of wine!
Currently in iww123's garage:
54 Plate Scenic II 1.6 Auto