No probs Truckbusuk (i just didn't want to reply to dead threads).
Clio 1.2 16v (D4F Engine)
My original problem was the car would cut out whilst driving; the
engine warning light would come on on the dashboard and the car wold go into 'limp home' mode (preventing me to get any faster than about 35 mph)
I can't garauntee that this will solve your issues but since doing it 6 months ago i've not had this problem again (touchwood).
The loose black box at the back of the engine is a 'tamper-proof' cage that protects the wiring loom where it enters the
be solidly fixed to the car. Unfortunatley they have a tendency to rattle off and chafe through the wiring loom as it enters the box causing a short circuit.
Check if your cage is loose and whether the wiring going into it has been worn. If so this could be the cause of your electrical problems. The steps below may help.
I'm no welder and could find no way to reattach it to the engine block. The solution was to remove the lid, reinsulate the wires and pack the cage out with padding so tightly as to prevent it rattling around. I could find no way to remove the cage completely.
To sort this you'll need:
- 1x small mirror (the girlfriend's make up mirror from her handbag will do... just don't get dirt on it!!)
- 1x Right-angled pick or strong piece of wire bent at 90 degrees at the end - i used a small Allan Key about 1-2mm in diameter
- Insulating tape
- Foam pipe lagging or something similar to pack out the cage
- Maybe a torch
If you put the mirror down the back of the engine behind the Black Box you should be able to see a small brass wheel at the back left of it with holes in.
This wheel is sited on a bolt which when turned will cause a catch inside the cage to slide to the left and release the lid.
You need to stick the Right-Angled pick (or Allen Key) into the hole at the bottom and 'pull' it to the top (turning the wheel). You need to keep repeating this, turning the wheel until the catch is completely free. This will take quite a while -maybe 15 minutes!
The wheel maybe stiff to move at first but will loosen.
Once free, the lid should lift off.
You should be able now insulate the worn wiring. I used plenty of electrical tape.
If the wiring has actually worn right through, you'll need to solder on a new piece to bridge the gap - strip back a bit more insulation first from the problem wire so its easier to work on.
Once finished insulate all bare/worn/thin wires with electrical tape.
-Optional- Whilst the lid is off you may want to unplug the wires to the
and spray a little Electrical Contact Cleaner on the connections to drive out any moisture. **If you choose to do this be VERY careful when plugging/unplugging this cable incase you bend the pins. You could end up damaging you
Renault UK are apparently aware of the chafing problem and modified the Black Box by putting a small rubber grommet aroung the hole in the Black box. This has probably fallen out and is no use if the cage has detached and is rattling.
I used pipe lagging (the grey foam tubes with a slit in) to wrap around the wiring loom (like a collar) where it enters the box. Packed out tightly, this will insulate the wires, prevent the metal box from rubbing the wires and prevent the box from rattling/moving around at all.
Once your satisfied that the box is firm and wont rattle any more, rotate the brass wheel downwards to slide the catch back to the right.
Replace the lid and push it down firmly, the catch should 'click' holding the lid in place. If it doesn't click, lift the lid back off and adjust the catch right or left to line up with the tab on the lid. Fitted correctly you should not be able to lift the lid off.
You're done. Go and have a cup of tea!
Hope that helps - thanks must go to P Drage from another forum (do they exist?!) who helped me out with my problem