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post #82 of (permalink) Old 15th August 2011
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Talking Re: Renault - Scenic - Window Regulator Brackets/Clips

Originally Posted by scenicman44 View Post
Here is a blow by blow account of how to remove the door panel and replace the regulator cables and/or regulator clip on a Renault Scenic mark 2 (2003 – 2006 [53 – 06])

Ability needed to complete the job.
This job is well within the capabilities of a person with limited “do it yourself“ experience.

Potential saving £275 - £295 per door, compared with garages who often replace the whole regulator

Tools you will need:
  • A small box to put the parts in.
  • A screwdriver with a Torx 30 (T30) bit to undo the door panel retaining bolts, and a T20 bit to fit the window clip and regulator cables.
  • Small flat bladed screwdriver.
  • Long nosed pliers.
  • A pair of locking pliers/mole grips.
  • Some strong tape (gaffer tape or parcel tape).
How to remove the door panel.
  • Empty the small storage box near the rear edge of the panel and the larger stowage box at the bottom of the door.
  • Make sure you have room to fully open the door.
  • Remove the 2 Torx bolts along the lower edge of the inner door panel (under the stowage box).
  • Lever up the small cap behind the door opening handle with a small flat bladed screwdriver and remove the torx bolt.
  • Gently lever off the front cover of the grab handle with a small flat screwdriver (at the bottom where marks would be less noticeable) and remove the two torx bolts recessed in the handle.
  • Gently lever up the rear end of window opening switch using a flat bladed screwdriver. Slide the switch backwards and withdraw it. Remove the protective tape from around the electrical connector and disconnect the connector. Place the window operating switch in your box. Save the protective tape for re-use (note it is sticky).
  • The door panel is in 2 parts. Lift the part of the door panel that has the grab handle, and arm rest upwards. Now hinge it down.
  • Remove the single Torx bolt located near the centre line of the space in the main panel, just above the sheathed cable operating the door opener handle.
  • Lift the main door panel upwards and pull the top edge outwards. Now pass the door opener mechanism through the hole in the panel. Thread the cable towards the rear of the door, firstly in front of the part of the panel that had the torx securing bolt, then pass it into the space in the door cavity.
  • The panel can now be removed.
  • The main electrical cable loom passes through a number of mounting clips on the rear of the lower part of the door panel. The clips can be undone to release the electric cables, by pushing the clip part towards the front edge of the panel. The speaker cable should also be released from various clips.
  • Once the electric cables have been released, you can place the panel on the ground, resting against the car’s cill.
Target time to remove door panel 5 - 10 minutes

Removing the regulator

  • Look at the window regulator before you remove it and also look down into the bottom of the door cavity to see if you see any broken bits. If the window pane has dropped into the door get you hands below the bottom edge and gently pull it up. Once you can see the lower edge of the pane, you may find a broken piece of regulator clip still attached. This is green plastic on front door regulator mechanisms and white on rear door mechanisms. There is a hole drilled in the window pane where the regulator clip is fitted. If it is the old style clip you should be able to gently pull the bottom towards you, so as to release the plastic lug from the hole in the window pane. New style slips have a bolt that requires a torx 20 (T20) screwdriver bit. The new style clips are unlikely to snap, but you may have a cable failure if these were not replaced at the time an old style clip was replaced. If the clip has snapped you may see an unattached regulator cable or it may still be attached to the broken clip.
  • Push the window pane fully up and tape it fully closed with gaffer tape or parcel tape.
  • Remove the regulator. The regulator is held to the door by three torx 30 bolts. One of these at the lower end was removed when the lower panel bolts were previously removed. There is another bolt at the top end and one about six inches away and further forward. You need to support the regulator as you remove the final bolt. Lower the regulator and manouevre it so that the top end can be pulled out of the cavity. Remove the regulator from the door, which is still attached to the electrical cables. There is an electrical connector by the motor. This requires slight leverage with a small bladed screwdriver behind the lug on the connector. The connector should now slide apart easily, Don’t force it. If it doesn’t come apart easily you are levering in the wrong place!
  • Once you have removed the regulator, turn it over, and look at the spool on the back of the gearbox to the motor. If one or more of the wire cables has wound itself in a mess on the drum, you will need to unbolt the gearbox and motor from the regulator (see later). If one or both of the cables are frayed or badly bent, it is best to replace them, rather than risk it.
  • Check that the small black rubber stop is present at the bottom of the regulator track. If it has fallen off, look for it in the door cavity or on the ground in the immediate vicinity. The rubber stop also has a tag that passes through a hole in the track, which may have broken off.
  • I was unable to complete the job the same day, as I didn’t have the parts. If you intend to use the car, and like me have small grandchildren who might fiddle, it is best to replace the door panel until you have the parts to complete the job. It doesn’t take long.
The Renault part number for front doors on the Renault Scenic mark 2 is 7701209365.
They come as a pair (1 for the left front door and one for the right front door.
(Price £4.57 including VAT in July 2010)

The part number for the rear doors on the Renault scenic mark 2 is 7701209366
They come as a pair (1 for the left rear door and one for the right rear doors.
(Price £4.51 including VAT in July 2010).

I had to wait a day and a half for the parts at my local Renault parts shop, so don’t expect the
clips to be “off the shelf”.

Regulator repair kits with the clip and both cables are available on e-bay for about £20. They
are probably available via Renault dealers, but I don’t know the part numbers (each of the 4
doors will have a different part number).

Target time to inspect the regulator whilst in situ, inspect inside the door, undo the regulator
bolts, extract the mechanism from the door and disconnect the cable connector to the motor.
5 minutes.

Replacing the regulator clip and cables or refitting the existing cables.
  • The regulator motor, gearbox and spool are held to the regulator frame by three T20 Torx bolts.
  • Before you undo the bolts holding the motor, gearbox and spool, check the orientation of the motor and spool assembly on the regulator frame. Note that the three torx bolts are spaced at uneven intervals. I took close up digital photos of the assembly for future reference. Note that the two cables are wound on the spool in opposite directions.
  • Once the cables are rewound on the spool, the spool is a very tight fit in its housing. Moreover the spool will only fit when all three bolt holes are aligned. Hence a little planning at this stage will reduce the number of unsuccessful attempts at reassembling the regulator.
  • Now undo the three torx bolts and remove the motor assembly and spool from the frame. It will probably be a bit stiff if the cables have become tangled and jumped off the spool.
  • Once the spool has been freed, disconnect the cables from the spool. They slide into holes and hold themselves in place when coiled in the correct direction.
  • One cable is longer than the other. The long cable will go round the pulley at the bottom of the regulator (the one that is on an arm with a tensioning spring. The shorter cable will go round the pulley at the top end of the regulator. Fit the shorter inner cable first and wind it two turns around the spool. This was clockwise on a front left hand door regulator (? the same on all doors). Hold it in place with a finger to keep the cable neatly wound. Now slip the outer longer cable into its hole and coil it three turns anticlockwise. Shift your finger to hold both cables in place and check that the cables are properly seated. Move your finger, so that the pressure is on the spool approximately half way between the two widest spaced bolt holes, and that your finger is parallel to the cables. Still keeping the regulator frame on a work surface, bring the motor and spool assembly behind the regulator frame in approximately the right orientation and pass the free ends of the two cables up through the gap in the spool housing. Push the spool half way up into its housing with the holes in the frame and motor aligned. The top half of the spool will now be visible in the gap in the spool housing. You can now apply pressure to the cables on the spool with a finger on the other hand through the gap. In one move remove your lower finger at the same time you push the frame down, and into place. I managed it first time, but if the cables jump out of place, you will have to try again. Once you have the spool fully in its housing with the cables correctly wound, keep it pressed together whilst you insert and tighten the three Torx bolts. This section is one of only two tricky bits of the whole job.
  • Now slide the regulator clip on to the top end of the regulator frame track. The track fits into an L shaped slot in the clip. Slide it about 2/3rds of the way down the track. Rotate the arm with the lower pulley and spring tensioner to the fully up position. Pass the longer cable around the groove in the pulley and clip the end of the cable into the notch on the regulator clip. At this point I used the locking pliers (mole grips), and clamped the edge of the regulator track at a point immediately below the clip. This ensured that the clip would not move, kept the long cable fully taught and the pulley arm fully up. N.B. Do not put the grips on the clip.
  • The shorter cable goes around the upper pulley. Insert the end of the cable into the notch on the regulator clip, and pull the cable up in a loop. There is a knack to getting the cable over the upper pulley. There are two notches on the pulley, which enable the cable to be rotated into position. Rotate the pulley so that one of these notches is situated just offset from the top. Pull the loop in the cable up, along the groove on one side of the pulley and through the notch, so that the rest of the loop of cable is in front of the pulley. Keep the cable in this position with your finger. The pulley wheel also has a circular groove on its outer face which is divided into segments. This enables you to use the long nose pliers to rotate the pulley. With your second hand slip the jaws of your long nose pliers into the groove and apply gentle pressure to rotate the pulley. Under no circumstances should you grip the plastic pulley wheel in the jaws of the pliers, you are merely rotating it. Turn the pliers anticlockwise if the cable was located in the groove on right hand side of the pulley, and clockwise if you engaged it on the left hand side. Keeping your finger over the cable and notch, the cable will be drawn onto the pulley as it rotates. Hey presto you are a qualified regulator repairer!
  • Now to repair the small black rubber stop (if it has broken). The tag which passes through a hole in the regulator track can be glued to the stop with superglue. Allow to dry and refit to track. Alternatively if you can’t locate the tag, glue the stop to the bottom of the metal track.
  • Lightly regrease the regulator track. I used lithium grease, as some other greases harden over time.
Target time to reassemble the regulator 15 - 20 minutes, but it will be less than this for subsequent repairs.

Refitting the regulator
  • Take the regulator to the door. Remove the torx bolt from the regulator clip with a T20 screwdriver and keep it and the screwdriver to hand.
  • Pass the bottom end of the regulator into the door cavity and manouevre the regulator until the top end clears any obstructions. Snap the electric cable connector onto the motor assembly, Insert the top retaining bolt loosely, insert the other two bolts that secure the regulator loosely.
  • Remove the tape from the window and manually slide the window pane down. Manouevre the window pane into the regulator clip so that the hole in the pane aligns with the spigot where the bolt passes through. Insert the bolt and tighten with a torx 20 screwdriver.
  • Tighten all three bolts inserted in section 29 with a torx 30 screwdriver. Temporarily attach the window operating switch, switch on the cars engine and test that the window goes up and down, when operated by its own switch and the one in the driver’s door.
  • It is reported by some people after fitting the regulator that the window sometimes won’t fully open or close. From an internet search on Renault owner’s forum I have gathered that this problem can be rectified by raising the window as far up as you can and continuing to hold the switch for a further 5 seconds. Similarly lower the window as far as possible and continue to operate the switch for 5 seconds. I cannot confirm that this works as I have not experienced this problem.
Target time to refit the regulator in the door 5 - 10 minutes.

How to refit the door panel
  • Unclip the window operating switch from the wiring which you attached for your tests.
  • Remove the bottom bolt from the regulator.
  • Loosen the top two regulator mounting bolts.
  • Place the door panel on the ground, by the door and clip the speaker cable and the main wiring harness into the clips on the reverse side of the door panel .
  • Thread the door opener cable in front of central part of the panel, behind the forward part and out through the switch hole.
  • Lift the panel up so the clips that attach it to the door can be slotted into place. Push the panel down, so that the metal arm projecting forwards from the regulator aligns with the plastic clip projecting from the rear of the panel. Make sure all the claw like clips on the reverse of the panel align with their holes. Push the panel down.
  • You can now fully tighten the upper two torx 30 bolts that hold the regulator in place.
  • Insert and tighten the single Torx bolt located near the centre line of the space in the main panel, just above the sheathed cable to the door opener handle.
  • Insert the torx 30 bolt behind the door opening handle and tighten fully. Close the plastic cover over it.
  • Insert and tighten the 2 Torx 30 bolts along the lower edge of the inner door panel (under the stowage box).
  • Slide the window opening switch forwards into the flap down part of the door panel and click the back part into place. Attach the electrical cable connector to the switch and reapply the protective tape around the connector.
  • Hinge the upper part of the door panel upwards and slide it down so the claw like clips align with their holes. Clip the top of the upper part of the hinged door panel into place.
  • Insert the two torx bolts recessed in the grab handle and tighten. Clip the cover onto the grab handle.
  • Clean the window.
Target time to refit the door panel 10 - 15 minutes.
I have just completed the job on my rear window of a 2006 Grand Scenic. I got the pair of reinforced clips from Renault for £4.31 inc VAT. I printed these instructions out and followed them to the letter.

The hardest part was winding the cables onto the motor and then reassemling so that the cables were in the correct position. This took me several attempts.

The best tip was to put the cable over the top pulley last and used long nosed pliers to turn the pulley.

All went well and I am pleased to have saved hundreds of pounds.

Many thanks for this comprehensive set of instructions.
Currently in sensible's garage:
Grand Scenic 1.6 VVT Dynamique 06
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