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post #4 of (permalink) Old 26th August 2011
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Re: Surface Scuffs

Professional Tcut , I dont know about but

For "home use" I vent air in the general direction of T cut(from accessory shops) for any paint finish.
Its like milder version of Cif or Jif or whatever its called ,the household "cream cleaner"
The consistency is more like "brasso"

Even for non metallic finishes if u cut thru the oxidised layer the paint underneath will be a slightly different colour(I used to find)

Vel would know more about this but metallic finishes used to be a base coat of paint with metallic particles embedded in it followed by a clear lacquer coat/many coats on top of that .
If u cut even the very top layer of the metallic base coat the rubbing will allow metal bits that were just below the surface to reflect the light differently in a wider and wider circle the more u rub and u get a "feathered edge" spot,or at least I have .
Paint guys can do "blending" but thats over a large area.

For me,depends on your definition of scuffs/scratches/stone chips.

If a scuff is like: hasnt broken thru the lacquer then like lots of polishing should do it.
If its a scratch where your down to metallic base coat,use your renault lacquer clear coat touch up bottle.
If youre down to the primer use the touch up bottle "colour coat" followed by the lacquer,
If its a bit lumpy looking ,dont worry it will shrink a little a few days after application and its much much better than letting "scuffs" stay.

If down to the bare metal,you need to catch it fast to prevent rust .If u dont u will soon see what I think of as "rust varicose veins" which is rust spreading under good paint.
I use , well used ,prior to the new car. "loctite rust remedy" as a primer then the factory supplied touch up colour then the lacquer.

Over a period of time your paint finish is gonna pick up a myriad of at least lacquer scratches from bushes on narrow roads n all sorts.Its a "sheet happens" thing.

Me personally I found a once a year run with "simoniz" the original hard work wax kept most of it at bay.
Aside from that just hope someone crashes into you as the repairers do a great job,, not kidding.

The only detachable body parts I dint have replaced on my previous(metallic finish) car were the lhs front wing,the lhs door and the rear hatch.
The bonnet replacement was rhe best cos of the slight salt n pepper effect on the "old one" due to stone chip damage repairs.

As an aside.. after 2 months the "touch up kit" (2 bottles) I ordered for my car on the day I bought it still hasnt arrived.
When I was in to check on my plastic painted body part/metal painted body part mismatch the service manager told me renault are changing over to all "water based paints" and this was accounting for the delay.

Im as keen on saving the environment as the next guy.. well not really , but this seems over the top.

Water based metallic paints!
Could be that all my bodywork maintenance techniques are out the window

Another aside.
One thing that brasso/metal polish of that type is great for is plastic/perspex scratches.
It will blend the plastic to a totally clear finish.
The only problem is on for example headlight plastic covers : There is supposed to be a "special finish"like a lacquer/coating also
Vel would have more info on that.
Real glass scratches.: Get" Jewellers rouge", no its not some kinky makeup, its what jewellers use to remove minute scratches on watch faces or a final pre polish on metal items.
Yes I do have some and used it to remove a windscreen scratch.Got it from my friendly neighborhood jeweller.
Rambling post probably but wth.
Currently in coup's garage:
RM III coupe 1.5dci FVT,Audi TT Mk1 ,a bike and too much rubbish.

Last edited by coup; 27th August 2011 at 12:07 AM.
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