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post #3 of (permalink) Old 17th March 2012 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up Re: Bottom ball joint replacement

Right I will answer this one myself as Ive just completed the job. I was inspired to tackle the job myself after calling into my local independent garage for a quote, I told the guy it was the push in type to which he replied " ye some push in some dont so you are looking at 90 upwards". 90 for a ball joint replacement I felt he was having a laugh, anyway, I brought the new ball joint from a motor factors near were I work in Winsford, Cheshire for 9.50 inc the VAT, part made by FAI. Jacked up car and removed road wheel then suported car on axel stand, I then gave the ball joint pinch bolt and the top of the suspect ball joind a good spray with penetrating fluid and left them to soak in, I then sprayed again for good luck. Removed pinch bolt nut and knocked out pinch bolt with a drift slightly smaller in diameter than the bolt, next I removed the brake calliper and tied it up to the leg out of harms way ( I had to slip the brake hose from its mounting to give me more length) next I unclipped the ABS cable and removed the plastic lug from the bottom leg, next I used a pinch bar and levered the bottom arm down using the brake disk as a lever point (a small bit of wood was used to protect the disc) quite easily the ball joint seperated from the bottom of the strut, however when it flips out the wheel hub does drop a little and can move towards you off its spline on the gearbox. With the two seperated the bottom ball joint is well exposed to work on, you now need to remove the bracket that was holding the ABS cable in place, this just lifts off the ball joint, next I placed a bit of steel tube over the ball joint and used a 2 legged puller to push the old ball joint from the arm ( a socket would work just as well if no tube is available) removal was quite easy, next I cleaned the surfaces of the arm applied a little copper grease to the new ball joint and fed it into its hole in the arm, I then reversed the 2 legged puller and using a slightly larger bit of tube pushed the new ball joint home. The new ball joint comes with a circlip to hold it in the arm, this was fitted next, you now need to slip the ABS cable bracket back on then line up the ball joint peg with it hole, once the peg started to go in its hole I used a jack placed under the arm close to the new ball joint and put on a little pressure (you can't put to much pressure on as the arm will lift) I then tapped the end of the arm upwards just in front of the ball joint and it went fully home. The rest is just the revere of the strip down, pinch bolt, brake calliper then road wheel, remembering to use the correct torques on all fastenings, I used 60nm on the pinch bolt and 105nm on the brake calliper as per the Haynes manual. I found the job quite easy and cheep to do (for once) to be completly honest I did make a couple of errors one was I forgot to put the ABS cable bracket back on and had to take the ball joint out again, also I turned the steering wheel when the bottom arm was free and floating to try and get the disc out the way but the car didn't like that and came up with STEERING ERROR on the display but once it was all back together and I started the engine the error was gone. I hope this helps someone to tackle this quite easy job and if anyone needs more info please feel free to ask.
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2006 Scenic II 1.5 dci
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GR8GUY (17th March 2012), Lagdti (17th March 2012)
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