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post #3 of (permalink) Old 31st March 2012
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Re: rear disc on grand senic


It is very easy. I am not a mechanic, I am a DIYer.

1. Chock up the front wheels, pull the handbrake lever and push the centre button as you switch the car off. An alarm will sound, but will stop after a few seconds..

1. Underneath the car running from wheel to wheel is a big subframe type bit. (sorry, told you I am no mechanic) covered by a plastic cover. There is a size 10 nut either side near the wheel holdignt the cover on. Take these off. There are 3 rubber bungs running along the plastic cover. Pull these off with needle nose pliers. There is also another bung at the back of the cover on each side, take these off with your needle noses. The cover should drop down with a small amount of manipulation. Take it away to one side.

2. Take off the centre cap with the renault key thingy and slacken the wheel studs with a size 17 socket and your security socket. Only slacken at this point.

3. Looking from underneath, at the back, put your jack right next to one wheel and lift up on the sub frame type thingy you've just uncovered. Get your axle stand under there as soon as you're high enough. Drop your car down onto the stand but leave the jack holding the weight slightly.

4. Undo the wheel studs fully and take the wheel off.

5. Undo the two caliper guide bolts. (one is at the top of the caliper, the other at the bottom) They are the ones that have a rubber seal. You will need a size 13 socket on the back and a size 15 spanner on the bolt next to the rubber. Hold the spanner in place and turn the socket. (vise versa will knacker the runner seal). Take the bolt out. Repeat for the top one/bottom one.

6. Take away half the caliper. The pads will then slide out. Make sure not to lose the pad slide clip things.

7. Prize the centre hub cap off with a flathead screwdriver.

8. Undo the hub nut with a size 36 socket.

9. The disc should now come off, a tap with a hammer should help it on its way.

10. Put the new disc on, tightening hub nut to 238Nm. I put a wheel stud in one of the holes to keep disc in place.

11 Some will insist on bleeding the brakes as you wind the piston in or at least open the reservoir cap. I did neither, what you do is up to you. Other threads can expand on that.

12. Wind the piston back in just enough to get the new pads in (reversal of strip down).

13. Fitting is reversal of taking apart. I'm not too sure of the torques other than:
The hub nut should be 238Nm
Wheel studs should be 100NM
I three white knuckled the rest.

As a note below:

Once the new pads are in place it should hold the disc in place for long enough to get the wheel back on. Common sense dictates that you take the holding stud out before refitting the wheel.

Press the brakes a few times before driving anywhere, then try them while driving slowly and proceed as you see fit.

As stated before I am not a professional mechanic, what I do to my own car is my responsibility. I had no problems the way I did it. Maybe just bear that in mind though!
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