Join Date: May 2012
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Grand Scenic Brakes with Photos new for old
I see a number of people have been having issues with Scenic brakes and discs.
I changed the wifes last year as they were hopeless compared to my Focus brakes. It is clear from the photos the reason for this, severe corrosion, mostly on the inner surface that you don't see easily.
I replaced both front and rear discs and pads (Mintex).
The front are easy to change. Once the wheel is off, unbolt the caliper and move to the side. Take out the old pads and spring guides. The guides are not usually supplied with the pads or discs, you have to buy them. Remove the caliper mounting frame. Remove the screws holding the discs to the hub. The discs should come off fairly easily.
Clean up all the surfaces on the caliper and hub with a wire brush or similar. Take care not to damage the seal on the piston. The piston should push back fairly easily, use a G cramp or a wind back tool (without the part that rotates the piston, don't rotate the front piston, only rotate the rear brake piston)
When refitting use a small drop on Loctite on the bolts,(not disc screws) torque as per manual. Use a smear of copper grease on the back of the pads, don't get any on the pad or discs.
Rear discs are a bit more of a challenge. Mine has the electronic handbrake and its best to release the handbrake first.
Do this by putting the keycard in and pressing the start button for about 10 seconds (don't put your foot on the clutch, do not start the car), release the handbrake using the switch, press the start switch twice to switch off (it will complain that the brake is off), remove the key. The handbrake should now be released, NOW disconnect the battery to avoid accidental operation of the handbrake or generating it fault codes.
Remove the caliper and holding frame. I think the frame is held on with Torx bolts?
Take care not to damage the handbrake cables, be warned or you could face a £500+ bill. Tie it up on to the suspension or something rather that letting it dangle.
The rear disc is also the hub with bearings and ABS ring, don't damage it. They are not cheap, use a motor factor rather than expensive Reno parts. My kit came with new hub nuts and caps.
You will need a 36mm socket for the hub nuts and a torque wrench that will do at least 150 ft/lb.
Clean all the parts proir to rebuilding.
You will need a piston wind back tool R/H model.
Hopefully the actuator arm on the caliper is fully back on its end stop, if not then that's another story I will not go into here.
Replace the parts in reverse order, starting with the disc, then holding frame then caliper. Use new spring guides when fitting the pads.
Use a smear of copper grease on the back of the pads, don't get on the pad or discs.
Use some Loctite sparingly on the bolts, torque as required.
It would be wise to bleed the brakes now. Or better still bleed enough fluid through to completely flush out the old fluid. Don't re-use the old brake fluid.
When all is finished replace battery and try the handbrake.
The photos shows the state of the old discs......
and the lovely new shiny discs.....
A week later I replaced the lower suspension arms as the ball joints were shot.....
You never stop replacing parts on a Scenic.....
Hope this helps.
Currently in Cardinal Sin's garage:
2005 Grand Scenic 1.6 Heap, 2001 Ford Focus 1.4, 1995 Corsa 1.2
Last edited by Cardinal Sin; 30th May 2012 at 11:56 PM.