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post #2 of (permalink) Old 12th October 2006
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I've fitted towbars on both of my Laguna 1's. I'm going to be casting my mind back a little here, but bear with me.

Fitting the bar itself isn't tricky, but bear a few things in mind before making your purchase.
1) In this day and age, it's unlikely, but some towbars might still require that you cut the bumper. This is a step you could do without, and of course means you need a new bumper if you ever take the towbar off again.
2) Not all towbars are made the same. They may all be 'type approved' but that doesn't include fixtures and fixings. Buy a decent quality bar and you'll get better quality fixings. In the case of the Lag, the better bars come with special captive nuts, meaning that the bumper doesn't have to come off.
3) To do the job by the book, you need a torque wrench. If you're going for a flange style bar though, the torque settings for the towball bolts are off the scale on most DIY torque wrenches. If you know a friendly mechanic, it might be best to get him to torque them up for you for the price of a pint.

There are few problems when it comes to fitting the bar to the Laguna. The only problem I've ever had was with the forward mounting bolts, one of which can be tricky to get in thanks to the exhaust heat shield. This is definitely the case on the Lag 2, though I think it was true on the Lag 1 as well.

With the bar in place, you have to look at electrics. If you're just wiring the lights, then your only problems will be getting the reversing and rear fog light feeds. On the L1, I resorted to hacking into the loom, which runs beneath the plastic trim along the left hand side of the inside of the car. With hindsight, I'm betting that the L1 has a multiplug hidden behind the left hand boot lining, which would probably be a better bet.

If you have bulb failure on your car (only on models with the voice synth, I think) then you might want to consider fitting bypass relays. I never bothered, and never had any problems, but your mileage may vary.

If you want the 12S socket (battery charge and fridge feed for a caravan) then this is best run directly from the battery along the underside of the car inside conduit. As the L1 had full sized blade fuses (the L2 has the fiddly mini blades) I cheated and hacked up an old blown fuse, and used this to 'plug in' to a spare permanent live position on the interior fuse box (I used the fuse position for the heated seats.) Run this via a suitable in-line fuse to a voltage sensing split charge relay in the boot - this will provide all of your 12S feeds, apart from the ground.
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