Renault Clio 2 - Loose Wiring Loom Cover Cutting Into ECU Loom*FIXED* - Page 5 - Renault Forums :: Independent Renault forum

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post #21 of 80 (permalink) Old 20th January 2008
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Can this fault also cause problems with the electrics? not just the engine?

I have some bizzare faults on my girlfriends clio which has confirmed that i will never bother buying renault or french again... should have learned from peugeot.

But basically at first, when you wound up the drivers window with the one touch function, the right hand indicator would flash, and keep flashing as long as you held the button. After research i checked all the wiring to the control box (UAH or something), i opened this box too to see what relay was clicking and if there was any obvious damp damage or similar (seemed to only happen after heavy rain).
Nothing strange was seen, all wires were firmly back in place, and the fault has disapeared again now (although not straight away).

HOWEVER, now the car doesnt think the doors are shut, its not the boot. Neither does it seem to be either of the sensors on the doors, i have checked both with a multimeter, and they are operating. From what i found out, the swtiches are push to break... So when unplugged from the sensor this means that the doors should show as shut, which they did for a while, but then the open doors light came back on.

Now it seems to come on randomly, flickering at times, with movement of the seat, reving of the car etc...

Its a bit of a nightmare, as you get it to work out the doors are closed, but later that night, the car will think you've opened the locked door, and put the interior light on. Then that will turn off after 15 minutes, but in that time, the car has got a messed up signal saying the doors have opened again.

Now i imagine most of this is done by the control box (UAH or whatever), but im wondering if it would also talk to the main ECU via this wiring loom that gets worn through?

Any help would be appreciated, my girlfriend just brought this car... so a bit disheartened about it.

Whats strange is not ONE of these problems showed themselves when we looked at the car (for quite a while too)... very unlucky for us.
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post #22 of 80 (permalink) Old 10th May 2008
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I've been living with this irritating and dangerous problem for at least a year now...when it first happened I had no idea what it was and called the RAC who towed me to the nearest garage (Birmingham, when I live near Gloucester!) They ran a diagnostic (for a fee) and decided there was nothing wrong except loose wiring which they charged me a total of 80 for. It didn't happen for about a month but since then (last May) the light has been coming on roughly once a week, sometimes more sometimes less. Quite by accident I discovered that if I stall the car and make it jump, eventually the light goes off and it drives fine, til the next time. However, this weekend the light has come on immediately as the ignition is switched on, and there is NO power whatsoever. Before, I've always had small amounts of power, enough to travel between 10 and 20 mph but now I can floor the accelorator and nothing happens whatsoever. I have just bought a house (in Sheffield) and came to pick the keys up yesterday and now it looks like I'll be stranded here for a while until someone can sort it for me to drive back home.

I don't want to call RAC because they'll insist on running a diagnostic again, but I don't really know enough of what I'm talking about to get my usual mechanic to do something.
Currently in Laura44's garage:
2002 Renault Clio II Expression 1.2
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post #23 of 80 (permalink) Old 18th August 2008
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Thanks for the info Louis, I replied to vosa and they fobbed me off !
I am about to try and get this blooming black box off and see whats happening, we have had renault "Experts" look at the car (2001 clio 1.2 16v) and have had the usual needs throttle body or ECU tales!
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post #24 of 80 (permalink) Old 2nd October 2008
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How to remove the base of the ECU tamper proof cover

I recently bought a Clio (52 Plate 1.2 16 valve Extreme) for my daughter, it started having problems with warm starting and I found this forum very helpful in sorting the problem.

Found the ECU upper engine cable loom had been damaged by the "Black Box" as per many other contributors.

I took the cover off the "Black Box" (tamper proof cover); it was not too difficult to carry out this part of the job, but I found that the screw was loose to start and became stiff when the cover was ready to be released.

I found 3 wires had been damaged, not completely worn through but all with the conductors showing.

The cover had the rubber grommet to "protect" the cables but it had not been totally useful!!!

Following advice found here and on other forums, I replaced the Crank Sensor and also opened up and cleaned every sensor plug break on the engine with Contact Cleaner spray and protected the pins with Vaseline (petroleum jelly). The 3 relays at the front of the under-bonnet fuse and relay panel were also removed and cleaned. Only one of these relays had a little corrosion showing on the pins, but careful cleaning removed it and the Vaseline will protect from further damage.

Part of the work included removing the plug from the left hand side of the ECU . This plug is very easy to get off and there is very little chance of damaging the fine pins when reconnecting, providing the plug is applied square in line with the socket.

I realised the "Tamper Proof Cover" would only damage the loom again if refitted and the base was so loose it would also potentially pose a significant risk of damage. I decided I needed to remove the base but had to figure out how.


While the plug was disconnected from the ECU it was simply a matter of slightly spreading the base part of the tamper proof cover, it is open on the right hand side (viewed from the front of the car) and then after twisting by lifting the edge of it nearest the engine simply pull gently to release it from around the ECU electrical socket.

The base is not secured by any mechanical device but is simpy wedged into place between the ECU and the engine. The ECU upper engine Loom Plug when connected prevents it being removed.

The damaged cables were cleaned with Isopropanol Alcohol and then when dry, they were wrapped with several layers of insulating tape.

Since carrying out this work there have been no problems experienced with warm starting, the engine fast idle is much smoother when starting from cold and the car drives significantly better.

The Crank Sensor cost 21 + vat from a local motor factor
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Last edited by spanner-do; 3rd October 2008 at 09:33 PM.
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post #25 of 80 (permalink) Old 3rd October 2008
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Wow ! thanks Spanner-do, I got the blackbox top off and found just 1 wire showing, I was going to unplug the wire loom but was afraid of breaking something, I see there is a clip you fold down but there also seems to be a cable tie and you have to be so carefull with these modern cars, do you have to cut the cable tie or does it come off with the loom plug ?
The latest thing is the car doesnt want to tick over from cold until you have driven it a few minutes, then at low revs it has very little throttle response!

thanks again for the help.
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clio , cover , cutting , ecu , loom , loomfixed , loose , renault , wiring

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