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post #11 of 55 (permalink) Old 24th February 2011
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Thumbs up Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

Another possibility if you have an older Clio 1.2, is the low tension wires which run up to the single "black box" ignition coil pack on the left hand side of the engine on these models.

Follow the wiring back from the coil pack plug, down past the brake fluid reservoir and check to see if the wires have been rubbing on the metal brake pipes. This can cause the wiring insulation to be worn away and an intermittent short circuit can occur. This fault can give the same symptoms as a failing coil pack.
(I changed a coil pack before the real problem was found! We were quite lucky there wasn't a fire I reckon).

We also had an intermittent vague burning smell which we couldn't trace for a couple of weeks before the car finally stopped running, and the battery hada tendency to go flat if the car wasn't driven for a few days....

If this has happened, replace or use decent insulating tape round the rogue wire and re-route the wiring so it doesn't happen again.
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post #12 of 55 (permalink) Old 29th April 2011
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

I have had a lot of people ask me about issues with the throttle body, so here is the tutorial on how you should go about dismantling and cleaning it.

This should fix issues you have with your Clio idling erratically, misfiring, cutting out when pulling away and juddering at low revs, it should also stop the coil light from staying on in the dashboard and giving false readings on the computer when attached for diagnostics.

Tools needed:-
1. 10mm socket with extension
2. 8mm ring spanner (to disconnect the earth from the battery)
3. Star socket to remove the throttle body from the manifold.

First you must disconnect the battery then pull out all the plug caps and place to one side and disconnect all of the wires on the engine loom that are attached to:-

1. The Air Pressure sensor
2. The coils
3. Unclip and lift up the large plug at the back of the engine (the black troublesome box can be removed, see at the end of this tutorial)
4. Remove the oil breather pipe and the other pipe to the left of the air filter
5. Remove the petrol pipe (bottom left of photo) this will be really stiff, just keep the green sides of the plug pressed firmly in and ease off

Note: Do NOT try to pull at the loom on the right hand side as this goes inside the manifold
Now unscrew the four bolts on the top and also the 10 bolts on the front, you will eventually find them as some are real hard to see, I must point out that you will need a THIN 10mm socket and at least a 6 inch extension to reach these bolts.

Once everything is unscrewed and disconnected, lift the manifold up a little then pull forwards slightly to free the manifold from the head. Now tilt the manifold forwards and again lift up and rotate the whole lot towards you, you will see the throttle body with a loom plug and the oxygen sensor plug. Disconnect the two plugs and remove the wiring loom from the manifold, this is a little tricky as you need to pull the loom out and over a plastic lug. You do not need to disconnect any of the fuel injectors. Now with the manifold upside down you will see the four retaining star screws holding the throttle body in place.

Here are some photos of one that was supposed to have been cleaned by a local mechanic, he was obviously a cowboy. Also below in the photo is the oxygen / idle sensor that is completely full of oil , this will give incorrect readings and cause your Clio to rev up and then drop to almost stalling speed, it will eventually either cut out or slowly settle down. Other symptoms of this will be stalling when pulling away and misfiring at low revs.

The socket for the oxygen / idle sensor which was also filled with oil , you can unclip this sensor and spray it with carb cleaner to clean all the crud off.

What the throttle body should look like after you have cleaned it up

Soaking up a ton of oil inside the manifold, make sure you clean every drop you see in there, also there is a very small breather that you must check and clean out shown in the right hand photo. Make sure you do not push the crud back into the hole.

Another important job to do before putting everything back is to clean any corrosion off the cylinder head, if you do not then the chances are that the manifold will not sit snug and you will get air leaks. Its always good to replace the four gasket rubbers if they are worn, but to be honest, if you clean the head up like I have, you will not need to replace them. I have never had a problem using the old gaskets again.

OK now your all ready to put everything back in reverse order, take your time and don't rush or force anything into place, once you have everything back and plugged in and bolted up, start her up and be amazed, it may run jumpy for the first few seconds because the petrol was emptied from the injector tube when you turned the manifold upside down, but after that's filled again you shouldn't have any problems..

I took the car back to the woman I fixed it for and she took it for a test drive, when she come back she was crying with joy because she had been having so many problems with her car since the day she bought it, she was just so happy that it was fixed at last. She had been charged an arm and a leg by Renault and cowboy mechanic and neither of them had fixed the problem for her, they just come up with excuses that this sensor or that sensor was at fault.

I hope this tutorial has helped you fix your car and have saved you 100's of pounds from a Renault dealer. If so, I am glad I have helped.

All the best with your DIY,

P.S. this tut can be found here:-
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post #13 of 55 (permalink) Old 29th April 2011
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

Re: Renault Clio 2004-Engines -Loss of power and Warning Light PROBLEM SOLVED
For all of you who have had problems with with above.

I am please to say that we have now had the car problem fixed.

1. Catalytic converter replaced. (not exhaust)
2. Throttle body cleaned.
3. Misfire on idle/removed and cleaned inlet manifold and covers, cleaned out oil deposits and reseat breather seal for air leak.
4. Fitted new gasket/clamp.

Car now runs like a dream no more loss of power.

Total cost at a garage 364.58 (this included a new front spring which had snapped)

Hope this solves all your issues
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post #14 of 55 (permalink) Old 30th May 2011
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

when were the spark plugs last changed? something similar happened mine, changed plugs for 20 and problem fixed.
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post #15 of 55 (permalink) Old 7th June 2011
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Cool Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

Hi people im new to the forums wondering if someone could help.

Similar issue here, I bought a 51 clio 1.2 expression few days ago, seemed fine although thought it was a bit juddery but was taking it to be from my bad driving.

ive had it two weeks now and ive had 2 serious issues with it, going onto a the slip road the dam thing wouldnt pick up speed i originally thought i was in wrong gear but wasnt then suddently burst into life and jumped to 50 after only doing a steady 20mph

Other issue is less serious but from what ive read on here could get worse, it judders now and again, not all the time and mostly when its used first thing in the morning. it has stalled on me, but again wasnt sure if it was me or the car.

Ive been to a garage who said the lambda sensor MIGHT need to be changed..but ive also seen on here that people recommend getting a service eg oil change spark plugs get the hoses or injextors looked at as they might be leaking air which causes weird ticking over...

Also occasionally when sitting idle it sounds like the revs are really low. got this checked at the garage but of course it was fine then?

any help really much appreciated..also not sounding cheap i dont wanna spend alot on this so what would you do first?


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clio , properly , renault , running

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