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post #31 of 55 (permalink) Old 28th March 2013
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

Lesson to us all, get it apart quickly, take your time when putting it back - checking for other problems as you go - you'll know what to look out for (first) next time even if you do nothing about it now.

I need to do this job on my wife's Clio soon. Think breather is leaking in the inlet manifold, there's plenty of oil in the filter housing when I changed the filter.

It runs fine but, the TDC sensor is getting mucky and the MPG isn't good. Also got a Tiger Seal filled dog-bone to put on... my 8v is so much smoother after that simple mod, will be great to see what it does to a more exciting 16v Sport!
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post #32 of 55 (permalink) Old 28th March 2013
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

When I bought mine I replaced my ignition unit more or less straight away, the vibrations had rubbed the insulative rubber away and although not misfiring, it may well have been arcing in higher humidity.

I silicone greased the leads so it didn't wear away again.
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post #33 of 55 (permalink) Old 1st June 2013
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

sorry to jump in on this thread my daughters car is doing the same thing juddering whilst accelerating ,i have changed the coil and spark plugs ,but its still happening even cutting out whilst idling ,would the next step be to change the throttle body and what sort of price would a garage cost to supply and fit .
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post #34 of 55 (permalink) Old 22nd June 2013
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

Originally Posted by CliffC View Post
I have had a lot of people ask me about issues with the throttle body, so here is the tutorial on how you should go about dismantling and cleaning it.

This should fix issues you have with your Clio idling erratically, misfiring, cutting out when pulling away and juddering at low revs, it should also stop the coil light from staying on in the dashboard and giving false readings on the computer when attached for diagnostics.

Tools needed:-
1. 10mm socket with extension
2. 8mm ring spanner (to disconnect the earth from the battery)
3. Star socket to remove the throttle body from the manifold.

First you must disconnect the battery then pull out all the plug caps and place to one side and disconnect all of the wires on the engine loom that are attached to:-

1. The Air Pressure sensor
2. The coils
3. Unclip and lift up the large plug at the back of the engine (the black troublesome box can be removed, see at the end of this tutorial)
4. Remove the oil breather pipe and the other pipe to the left of the air filter
5. Remove the petrol pipe (bottom left of photo) this will be really stiff, just keep the green sides of the plug pressed firmly in and ease off

Note: Do NOT try to pull at the loom on the right hand side as this goes inside the manifold
Now unscrew the four bolts on the top and also the 10 bolts on the front, you will eventually find them as some are real hard to see, I must point out that you will need a THIN 10mm socket and at least a 6 inch extension to reach these bolts.

Once everything is unscrewed and disconnected, lift the manifold up a little then pull forwards slightly to free the manifold from the head. Now tilt the manifold forwards and again lift up and rotate the whole lot towards you, you will see the throttle body with a loom plug and the oxygen sensor plug. Disconnect the two plugs and remove the wiring loom from the manifold, this is a little tricky as you need to pull the loom out and over a plastic lug. You do not need to disconnect any of the fuel injectors. Now with the manifold upside down you will see the four retaining star screws holding the throttle body in place.

Here are some photos of one that was supposed to have been cleaned by a local mechanic, he was obviously a cowboy. Also below in the photo is the oxygen / idle sensor that is completely full of oil , this will give incorrect readings and cause your Clio to rev up and then drop to almost stalling speed, it will eventually either cut out or slowly settle down. Other symptoms of this will be stalling when pulling away and misfiring at low revs.

The socket for the oxygen / idle sensor which was also filled with oil , you can unclip this sensor and spray it with carb cleaner to clean all the crud off.

What the throttle body should look like after you have cleaned it up

Soaking up a ton of oil inside the manifold, make sure you clean every drop you see in there, also there is a very small breather that you must check and clean out shown in the right hand photo. Make sure you do not push the crud back into the hole.

Another important job to do before putting everything back is to clean any corrosion off the cylinder head, if you do not then the chances are that the manifold will not sit snug and you will get air leaks. Its always good to replace the four gasket rubbers if they are worn, but to be honest, if you clean the head up like I have, you will not need to replace them. I have never had a problem using the old gaskets again.

OK now your all ready to put everything back in reverse order, take your time and don't rush or force anything into place, once you have everything back and plugged in and bolted up, start her up and be amazed, it may run jumpy for the first few seconds because the petrol was emptied from the injector tube when you turned the manifold upside down, but after that's filled again you shouldn't have any problems..

I took the car back to the woman I fixed it for and she took it for a test drive, when she come back she was crying with joy because she had been having so many problems with her car since the day she bought it, she was just so happy that it was fixed at last. She had been charged an arm and a leg by Renault and cowboy mechanic and neither of them had fixed the problem for her, they just come up with excuses that this sensor or that sensor was at fault.

I hope this tutorial has helped you fix your car and have saved you 100's of pounds from a Renault dealer. If so, I am glad I have helped.

All the best with your DIY,

P.S. this tut can be found here:-

Thank you for this post.
I have a problem like most on here, I have a solid Engine light and my 1.2 16V clio drive fine, but then the the SERV and Airbag lights come on and the engine light starts flashing then my car is down on power the MPG is bad and feels like a misfire!!
could all these problems be down to the wiring loom (little black ECU box) or just the misfire fault?

Any help would be really great.
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post #35 of 55 (permalink) Old 23rd June 2013
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

Hi, here another Clio 02 1,4 16v with a similar problem.
When the engine is cold, it starts perfect but if you push the gas pedal starts a kind of misfire, the revs don't go up and there's a massive white smoke in the exhaust.
If you start the engine and leave it at idle for 15/20 sec, the car runs and revs ok.
When the engine is at working temperature it takes forever to start, and when it happens the engine won't rev up, feels like the air/fuel is rich, as soon as you rev it up, the engine gets clean and you can drive ir perfect.
And also suffer from rough idle.
I just serviced the car, cleaned the TB, replaced spark plugs, all filters, oil , a couple gaskets, and still runs as bad as before the service.
I drive the car 65 miles a day on a mix of higway / rural roads with no problems at all, with a full tank I get 320 miles which I think it's ok.
I read the codes with a Snap on reader and showed up these codes:
285 Fast fan control switch
95 pedal position sensor
301 brake pedal sensor
I work at a garage but we do german cars and nobody there got any experience in renault, so I checked the harness, any bad conection, all the basic things to check when you got a failure like this. my problems are the rough idle and the problems with the start, everything else works perfect in the car.
I'd really appreciate any advise, I read the whole thread but didn't find anything about the cold/hot start problems.

Thanks in advance!
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clio , properly , renault , running

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