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post #41 of 55 (permalink) Old 18th February 2014
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

Originally Posted by JJ2 View Post
Sounds like Throttle body issue. I had the same. Easy enough to do yourself with a little know how... Either way a 2 hour job or so?
Please could anyone tell me whether the 1.4 16v clio throttle body is in the same place as the 1.2? I know Cliffs detailed description was for a 1.2 so I'm hoping the 1,4 is the same. Any differences in cleaning the throttle body on a 1.4??

Many thanks.
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post #42 of 55 (permalink) Old 20th October 2014
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

Does anyone still happen to have this downloaded/saved somewhere with the pictures? They seem to have dissappeared and the link isnt working

Thanks all


Originally Posted by CliffC View Post
I have had a lot of people ask me about issues with the throttle body, so here is the tutorial on how you should go about dismantling and cleaning it.

This should fix issues you have with your Clio idling erratically, misfiring, cutting out when pulling away and juddering at low revs, it should also stop the coil light from staying on in the dashboard and giving false readings on the computer when attached for diagnostics.

Tools needed:-
1. 10mm socket with extension
2. 8mm ring spanner (to disconnect the earth from the battery)
3. Star socket to remove the throttle body from the manifold.

First you must disconnect the battery then pull out all the plug caps and place to one side and disconnect all of the wires on the engine loom that are attached to:-

1. The Air Pressure sensor
2. The coils
3. Unclip and lift up the large plug at the back of the engine (the black troublesome box can be removed, see at the end of this tutorial)
4. Remove the oil breather pipe and the other pipe to the left of the air filter
5. Remove the petrol pipe (bottom left of photo) this will be really stiff, just keep the green sides of the plug pressed firmly in and ease off

Note: Do NOT try to pull at the loom on the right hand side as this goes inside the manifold
Now unscrew the four bolts on the top and also the 10 bolts on the front, you will eventually find them as some are real hard to see, I must point out that you will need a THIN 10mm socket and at least a 6 inch extension to reach these bolts.

Once everything is unscrewed and disconnected, lift the manifold up a little then pull forwards slightly to free the manifold from the head. Now tilt the manifold forwards and again lift up and rotate the whole lot towards you, you will see the throttle body with a loom plug and the oxygen sensor plug. Disconnect the two plugs and remove the wiring loom from the manifold, this is a little tricky as you need to pull the loom out and over a plastic lug. You do not need to disconnect any of the fuel injectors. Now with the manifold upside down you will see the four retaining star screws holding the throttle body in place.

Here are some photos of one that was supposed to have been cleaned by a local mechanic, he was obviously a cowboy. Also below in the photo is the oxygen / idle sensor that is completely full of oil , this will give incorrect readings and cause your Clio to rev up and then drop to almost stalling speed, it will eventually either cut out or slowly settle down. Other symptoms of this will be stalling when pulling away and misfiring at low revs.

The socket for the oxygen / idle sensor which was also filled with oil , you can unclip this sensor and spray it with carb cleaner to clean all the crud off.

What the throttle body should look like after you have cleaned it up

Soaking up a ton of oil inside the manifold, make sure you clean every drop you see in there, also there is a very small breather that you must check and clean out shown in the right hand photo. Make sure you do not push the crud back into the hole.

Another important job to do before putting everything back is to clean any corrosion off the cylinder head, if you do not then the chances are that the manifold will not sit snug and you will get air leaks. Its always good to replace the four gasket rubbers if they are worn, but to be honest, if you clean the head up like I have, you will not need to replace them. I have never had a problem using the old gaskets again.

OK now your all ready to put everything back in reverse order, take your time and don't rush or force anything into place, once you have everything back and plugged in and bolted up, start her up and be amazed, it may run jumpy for the first few seconds because the petrol was emptied from the injector tube when you turned the manifold upside down, but after that's filled again you shouldn't have any problems..

I took the car back to the woman I fixed it for and she took it for a test drive, when she come back she was crying with joy because she had been having so many problems with her car since the day she bought it, she was just so happy that it was fixed at last. She had been charged an arm and a leg by Renault and cowboy mechanic and neither of them had fixed the problem for her, they just come up with excuses that this sensor or that sensor was at fault.

I hope this tutorial has helped you fix your car and have saved you 100's of pounds from a Renault dealer. If so, I am glad I have helped.

All the best with your DIY,

P.S. this tut can be found here:-
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post #43 of 55 (permalink) Old 20th October 2014
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

This might be useful if you have the same engine.

Clio 1.2 16v D4F Throttle Body removal
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post #44 of 55 (permalink) Old 22nd October 2014
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

Well, I swapped my 8v for a Picasso for my wife, a three-door Clio is a pig when you have two young children and a new baby to cart about. I inherited her 16v Sport.

I got the Sport through its MOT at the start of this month (after fixing brakes and exhaust all it needed was 38p of bulbs and new wipers which I had already). All was going so well until I changed the oil (waited until the MOT pass in case there was no point). There was 1/2 pint left! No low pressure light, no check oil message, nothing. I'd checked the level a couple of nights before and it was fine. (I clean the stick, dip, check, repeat.)

Immediate action was to refill, change filter, check the cam. I did this and adjusted tappets - they were a little more than the 0.1 and 0.25 required. I've decided to run it for a month and monitor the level daily.

My next action will be to use a flush, drain, drop the sump, check the big end shells, pump pickup, etc.

Until then, three further things have happened, or in the case of one, started to get worse:

  1. Coming to a stop there is a strong smell of burning oil. Got it up on ramps, checked the back of the engine and a pipe was dangling down at the back of the engine. This was obviously meant to be connected just above the oil filter, right next to it... So the oil was squirting directly at the back of the engine and the exhaust manifold and exhaust. Great, possibly the initial cause of the lack of oil - had they knocked it off when up on ramps for the MOT?
  2. After reattaching the hose, throttle response has been awful after the engine has started to warm up. When pressing the pedal a little, nothing happens, a little more then it springs violently into life, jolting on the mounts and jumping the car forward (any gear, any speed). Deceleration is smoother though, so this could be down to a vacuum leak from that hose? Once the engine is up to temperature the problem seems worse. It will idle under 700 rpm. From higher revs, (when the pedal is lifted) it will drop smoothly right down to almost stalling before the engine will bring it back up to around 600-700rpm. If I am turning on full lock and braking whilst pulling up to reverse park at work, it will stall with the two systems putting additional strain on the engine before it has the chance to recover. This can also happen with braking alone. This can also happening when feathering the throttle under 1500rpm (at the point where the engine starts to react it will initially speed up but very quickly stall unless I stamp on the throttle). After one of these times the emissions light came on. I check the codes, only one was shown: P0170 - fuel trim system malfunction. I know this to relate to the fueling components of the system including (but this isn't everything):
    • Sensors:
      • knock
      • throttle position
      • throttle pedal position
      • pre-cat lambda probe
      • post-cat lambda probe
      • MAP
      • Intake air temperature
      • Engine coolant
      • Crankshaft position
    • Other Parts:
      • Wiring loom
      • ECU
      • Fuel filter
      • Fuel pump
      • Vacuum hoses
      • Intake manifold
      • Throttle body
      • Air filter
      • Fuel lines
      • EVAP system
      • Catalytic converter
      • Throttle body
      • Throttle position actuator
  3. The oil pressure warning light has started to flicker when the engine has warmed up and seems to be idling very low, around 600rpm. If left to warm up a little longer, it will eventually stay on while idling but immediately disappears when the throttle is touched. This appears to me to be that the engine isn't idling fast enough to keep the pressure up, so I'm happy to leave this until the second issue is solved and I am convinced the first issue was fixed the first time.
At the weekend, if I get the time (baby, two kids, stressed wife, no money, halloween costumes to finish and overtime will probably mean there's very little time), I will attempt to:
  • get under the car and check that hose hasn't come off again
  • pull the pre-cat O2 sensor and check for abnormalities - I suspect this to be the main cause for a lot of the running problems
  • check the air filter isn't clogged with oil from the reattached hose - I didn't look any deeper than reattaching the hose but, I assume this is part of the breather system which is poorly engineered, in to the valve cover?
  • check the spark plugs for fowling, to determine whether running rich or lean (done after a long drive, so that the colour is seen when the engine has warmed right up)
  • check oil level
  • check codes
  • clean the crank position sensor - don't think it is this, as when I eventually get the immobilizer disabled - dodgy barrel transceiver ring thingy that requires a little twisting while pushing at times - it starts first time and runs very well until it starts to warm up
  • change the dogbone mount - helps for a short while to reduce the jolting on the driveshafts
  • spray carb cleaner round the intake to find any leaks
Can anyone help with some obvious diagnoses/tests? MadNoel, I know you have some great ideas, no pressure.

It's frustrating with no money or time to get this done. My intention is to part-ex/sell the car in Jan/Feb and get something a little more substantial. I would like to solve the big issues and have something good to sell cheaply for someone else wanting to get the most out of very little. If not, then it will go for scrap.


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2001 Clio Mk2 Ph1 1.2 16v Sport, 2001 Citroen Xsara Picasso 1.6 LX (95)
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post #45 of 55 (permalink) Old 22nd October 2014
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Re: Renault - Clio - Mk 2 - Not running properly

The piccie is from a 1.2 16v phase 2.

Yours might have a different filter fitted but is it the same pipe as fitted near the filter in the pic.?

If yes, that's the wiring to the oil pressure switch.
It might just need a new pressure switch.

I would fix that first then see if the oil light is going off and staying off.

On a healthy engine it should run at 600 without the oil light coming on.

I'd fix the oil pressure side of things before getting involved in the running issues.
Currently in lancs dave's garage:
Scenic 1.4ish 2002. Clio 1.2 2002. Thunderbird 885 1995, Suzuki Gsx600f 1989. Fazer 600 2002. Specialist cement mixer for proffessionals only, not yer average forum numpty. Your car is probably worth more than all that lot put together.
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clio , properly , renault , running

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