I'm not really sure that this even needs writing. The installation is an absolute doddle - probably the easiest car kit install I've ever done. If you know which way round to hold a screwdriver, then you can do this! Maybe this'll tempt someone to give it a go when they'd otherwise have gone for a professional install.
Total cost: About 60 quid for the Parrot CK3000 Evolution, and a fiver for the stereo removal tools if you don't already have them.
Total install time: Approximately 45 minutes, but that includes coming back into the house twice to find replacement batteries for the camera (I must invest in some new rechargables.)
Stereo removal keys
The Clio uses what Parrot (incorrectly) call 'reverse polarity' wiring. This means that the permanent and ignition feeds are reversed on the ISO connector. To remedy this, you have to undo both fuse holders on the Parrot power loom and re-connect them so that the two wires are swapped over.
Remove the ash tray and pull to remove the drinks holder. Take care not to strain the wires to the cigarette lighter. The drinks holder can just be left hanging to one side.
Remove the stereo and disconnect all of the connectors. Put the stereo to one side.
Pull on the interior light cluster (this may be different on models that don't have the basic tilt/remove sunroof) taking care again not to strain the wiring. Unplug the wiring and put the light cluster to one side.
Thread the mute cable, power cable and handsfree control cables in through the stereo slot and feed them through to the small gap in the passenger footwell, just rearward of the bottom edge of the glove box door.
Thread the microphone wire in through the hole for the light cluster, and out between the roof lining and the windscreen. This is the only tricky part of the install - it's a bit tight, so you really need to push a loop of cable through first, then carefully pull the plug through while pulling at the roof lining to allow the space.
Clip the microphone into one of the two available spaces in the light cluster (the rearmost one is probably best and is easiest to fit to) then re-fit the cluster.
Run the mic cable across the top of the windscreen, behind the roof lining to the passenger A-pillar (you could do this on the driver's side, but in the unlikely event that the cable drops down, it could cause a serious driving hazard.)
Tuck the cable into the top of the A pillar plastic moulding and into the door rubber. With the passenger door open, run the cable right the way down the door rubber until it reaches the bottom of the dash. Route and/or tie wrap the cable to existing fixtures under the dash until it reaches the point where you left the other cables hanging out of the side of the dash.
Pull all cables through into the space that was revealed by removing the
drinks holder. Connect everything up to the main Parrot control box and tuck the box into the space to the left of the gear lever (you can remove the gear lever gaiter if it makes things easier, but take care as the clips on the Clio's gaiter break very easily.)
Connect the Parrot 'mute' cable to the wire marked 'Mute in 3.' This isn't essential as the Parrot disconnects the speakers when in use anyway, but connecting this cable means that the display will show 'speech' and the CD will pause rather than continuing to play with no audio.
Connect the Parrot ISO's to the car's stereo wiring and the back of the stereo. Ignore the colour coding - the connectors are keyed and so can only fit in the correct sockets. Reconnect the yellow 'remote/display' and antenna wires directly to the rear of the stereo.
Leaving the Parrot remote hanging out of the side of the stereo aperture, position the new parts so that they won't get in the way of the stereo, and slide the stereo part way back into position. Switch on the stereo and enter the radio code. Check that the stereo works properly in radio and CD modes, then with a CD playing, try pressing in the dial on the Parrot remote for two or more seconds. The Parrot kit should speak through the car speakers, and the stereo display should show 'Speech.'
If all is well, re-fit the stereo properly, making sure that you leave enough slack for the remote cable to stick flat to the dash. You may encounter some resistance while fitting the stereo, but if it won't go in without force, remove it again and try to re-arrange the wiring before re-fitting.
Job done. And a completely invisible install apart from the tiny control unit on the dash next to the stereo.
For those who have forgotten/don't know how to enter the radio code.
Switch on the stereo - the display prompts 'code.'
Use the wheel on the back of the remote to change the first digit. When it is correct, press the button on the underside of the remote to advance to the next digit.
Repeat until all four digits are correct.
Press and hold the button on the underside of the remote until the stereo goes back into normal operating mode. If it prompt for the code again instead, you have entered the wrong code.