Renault Espace - Rear Brake Pad Replacement*Pic's* - Renault Forums :: Independent Renault forum

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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 1st October 2008 Thread Starter
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Renault Espace - Rear Brake Pad Replacement*Pic's*

Shamelesly stealing the format from Gonescenile's Scenic pad replacement thread ( here's one for the Espace IV as although the job is virtually identical, there are a few differences.

Ensure that the handbrake is off as per Gonescenile's method of pushing the button & pulling the handle as you remove the keycard. Chock the front wheels and jack up the rear end remembering to use axle stands where possible.

Pop the bonnet and remove the brake fluid resevoir cap:

I've always wrapped a rag around the thread of the filler neck as there is a possibility some may spill out when the brake pistons are pushed back in:

Remove the rear wheels, then remove the dust covers from the caliper bolts.

Unlike with the Scenic which has normal nuts & bolts on the caliper, Renault (in their infinite wisdom) decided to use long allen key bolts instead. To make matters worse they are 7mm (most allen key kits go from 1-6mm or even numbers between 2 & 10mm). I bought this key from alocal motor factors for about £3.

Here's a tip: this type of tool has quite a long shaft and the limited space behind the disc means you only get about quarter of a turn before having to re-position it. Take a hacksaw (or something like a Dremmel if you have one) and chop about an inch & a half off the shaft. Clean up the edges and you have an easier to use tool, but also more importantly, you can now pop the cut-off into a 7mm socket and use your socket wrench instead - much quicker.

Once you've undone the bolts the caliper should swing free - CAREFULL there are quite long metal brake lines on the Espace and if you're clumsy you could kink one. If the disc's are worn the caliper may need a little 'persuasion' to come free. Once free the pad on the outside of the disc will just fall free, but the one on the piston needs to be pulled out as it clips onto the piston. Once the pads are off it should look like this:

Like on the Scenic, these pistons wind back into the caliper. Friends in the trade told me that if you're carefull you can get it to turn using molegrips or something similar. B!*%@£ks to that, try and get the proper tool and it'll save a load of grief (trust me on this...). I borrowed this off a friend, but you can get from places like Machine Mart or Screwfix.

Wind the piston back as far as it will go, then clip on the new pad (you may need to bend the clips up on the new pad slightly to get them to grip the piston). The outer pad simply hooks onto the bracket and is secured when you re-fit the caliper. Position the caliper over the pad and tighten the 2 allen bolts again. If my guide makes any sense, it should look like this:

Pump the brakes to bring the pedal back up, refit the wheel and repeat on the other side. Check the fluid resevoir and top up as needed before replacing the cap.

These are the tools I used:

1) Clamp: 2) 7mm Allen key: 3) Pliers: 4) Adjustable Spanner: 5) Brake Piston Winder: 6) Socket driver, 7mm Sockett & offcut from Allen Key: 7) 10mm long socket & extender bar (used to give the Brake Piston Winder a bit more force): 8) 'Persuader'

Incidentally, don't let your pads wear down this much as it makes getting the piston back in an absolute ballache:

Last edited by Scouse; 1st October 2008 at 01:39 PM.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 1st October 2008
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Brilliant thread scouse cheers Donald
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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 1st October 2008
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Excellent thread Scouse I will move it to the Espace knowledge base, I'm sure many Members will find this very useful.
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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 1st October 2008
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Excellent post Scouse - just one other thing I would add.
When doing these type of pads I always remove the long allen keyed bolts (pillar bolts) make sure they are clean and free from dirt and gunge and give them a light smear of rubber grease. I agree the proper tool does a much better job but it can be pricey for the DIYer. I agree most allen key sets don't seem to contain a 7mm key but I was able to source a set for around a fiver from my local motor factors which contained both long and short keys.
As a general rule I always check the bleeder is free as it prevents it from seizing up - just in case you have to need it in the future.

As a matter of interest what was the G-clamp used for
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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 1st October 2008
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Excellent post Scouse

There's no shame in stealing the format if it helps others


I think I have CDO. It's like OCD, but with ALL THE LETTERS IN THE RIGHT ORDER
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