: Megane timing tool dimensions


dieselbug
11th January 2011, 08:22 PM
Hi there, I have a 2001 megane 1.4 16v with engine code K4J 750. It lost a piece of the timing belt guide from one of the cam pulleys and got caught in the belt, timing jumped a couple of teeth. Im not sure how much damage is done if any. I need to time it up and check compression but I dont have the tool to set the crankshaft. If someone could tell me the length of the shaft of the tool im sure I could make one good enough to at least check if theres valve damage. This is my first post and any help would be appreciated. Regards

Nottnoc
15th January 2011, 01:07 PM
Sorry for delay, been hectic here. The TDC tool would not be easy to make. It is 7mm rod, M8 threaded 62mm from end. After the thread there is a shoulder 70mm from end. The "handle" is 15mm Knurled. You could probably do it using 125mm of M8 studding with locknuts @<hidden> 70mm, Your choice.
I BOUGHT a Laser tools 4020 which was the cheapest way to get an MOT 1489 (Renault tool number).
For the cams themselves, I made a tool from 5mm x 25mm ally bar stock, with 2 "fingers" 40mm long spaced on 130mm centres bolted offset to 200mm of the same stock.
As I have done the deed, this kit is sitting idle in the garage for the next 5 years or 70K Miles :d
PM me, if it helps?
Tim

dieselbug
15th January 2011, 02:03 PM
Many thanks Tim
If im reading this correctly, the measurment from the contact face on the outside of the cylinder block to the crankshaft web is 70mm, this is the critical measurement. This would be the total of the thead length and the rod length, whatever remains outside the block dosent matter. To make it simple a 70mm long 8mm dia bolt (not including the bolt hex head) would be correct Im not too concered about the cams, as making a tool for these is fairly straightfoward with the correct material and a little care, at least you can see what you are doing here.
Regards and thanks again, Jim

Nottnoc
15th January 2011, 10:16 PM
Yes, that sounds like what I was trying clumsily to say.
Do bear in mind however, that my measurements were done with a tape measure ! However, I can't imagine they would make them to the nearest 0.5mm. Even if it was 69.5 or 70.5mm that would be less than 1 crankshaft degree out. One could achieve that with cr*p under the bolt head or a bit of rough casting on the crank web.
Glad to assist, I wish someone had posted this sort of answer to the similar question I asked in December. I could have saved 13.99 & 25 mile round trip fetching the Laser tool.

Nottnoc
26th February 2011, 10:17 PM
Update (thanks to Recycled Scenic) The studding or bolt should be M10 NOT M8 as previously posted. All lengths ARE correct. Apologies to anyone affected by my mismeasurement. :(

SamWoerth
27th February 2011, 04:46 PM
One would be very surprised if your engine is not damaged, after the belt jumping a few teeth, even one!
Sorry mate -But be prepared for the worst.
If you've got away with the event -
Your God is certainly on your side.
PS. Renault gods, usually are NOT!
A full setting kit is not all that expensive, but in your situation, a garage test may confirm the extent of the damage. Before splashing out on anything else.

Often, on relating the events, an experienced engineer - will declare -'Its not your day. Mate'
Then get his calculator working out the not insignificant cost.
SamWoerth
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Hi there, I have a 2001 megane 1.4 16v with engine code K4J 750. It lost a piece of the timing belt guide from one of the cam pulleys and got caught in the belt, timing jumped a couple of teeth. Im not sure how much damage is done if any. I need to time it up and check compression but I dont have the tool to set the crankshaft. If someone could tell me the length of the shaft of the tool im sure I could make one good enough to at least check if theres valve damage. This is my first post and any help would be appreciated. Regards

Recycled Scenic
27th February 2011, 05:21 PM
:iagree: once the timing is lost it's highly unlikely that the valves haven't touched the pistons on these engines 16 valve engines. They bend easily out of the way and let the engine carry on turning.

Though this usually means the engine can be repaired with a set of new valves.

krazykev
15th May 2012, 01:53 PM
Update (thanks to Recycled Scenic) The studding or bolt should be M10 NOT M8 as previously posted. All lengths ARE correct. Apologies to anyone affected by my mismeasurement. :(

a diagram of the tool complete with dimensions would be useful. there must be someone who has made the tool in the past. the cam locking plate is easy to make but the pin is a little harder to do without a lathe

bobbydog
15th May 2012, 02:28 PM
a diagram of the tool complete with dimensions would be useful. there must be someone who has made the tool in the past. the cam locking plate is easy to make but the pin is a little harder to do without a lathe


http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=115625&page=2