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Renault Clio - 1.2 16v Misfire Information

222K views 73 replies 48 participants last post by  Phil48 
#1 ·
We had a 2002 Clio with the 1.2 16 valve (D4F,chassis code BO5) engine in it at work this week which had the engine management light on and the car was intermittantly misfiring.The codes stored in the ECU were refering to a misfire on cylinders 2 and 3.

We traced the fault to the coil pack(surprise,surprise!).The D4F engine is a bit of an odd ball engine as rather than using individual pencil coils it uses one coil to run all the cylinders.



The unit is held on with 3 T30 torx headed bolts (holes marked in picture below:))and is very easy to replace.You just pull the leads off of the plugs,remove the multiplug from the coil and undo the three bolts.



A couple of things to bear in mind are the fact that the ends that go on to the plugs are made of very brittle plastic and easy to break,so when changing the plugs,be very careful when removing the leads.Also,the plugs are a strange size and a normal plug socket won't fit them.I used a 14mm deep socket,but you have to be careful as proper plug sockets are designed to avoid damaging the ceramic insulation,but a normal socket isn't.......



The leads are built into the coil pack,so if you manage to break a lead when changing the plugs,you have to replace the whole unit!.Don't panic though,as the whole thing from Renault is only around £35.Also,the leads are numbered so you can't mix them up,but be aware that the French number the cylinders from the flywheel end,rather than the front of the engine like everyone else,so number 1 cylinder is the one nearest the gearbox,number 4 is one nearest the cambelt end.:rolleyes:

If you do have to replace a coil pack,it is always advisable to replace the plugs at the same time.:)

Hope this helps someone out in the future.:)
 
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#63 ·
Hello to everyone,
I`m from Romania , I own a 2012 Dacia Logan 1.2 16v(Renault Engine just like in Clio - D4F -).
I cannot start the engine on the first attempt , always the problem only occurs when the engine is warm and the symptom it`s purely random.
The car has only 20.000 km .
I put it on the tester in various places including Dacia Dealers . No errors , all tell me that the car is fine, although I'm hitting this problem ,in short , when engine is warm will not start at first key , sometimes goes to second key ; There are days when I don`t have any problems and days when the engine is warm but no start at first key maybe second key will start. This problem arises purely random and can not bind to a particular phenomenon .
Please help me with advice .
Can it be an misfire ?!
 
#71 ·
Thank your for posting the solution! Experienced the same problem with my 2002 Clio II 1.2 16V with loss of power and one cylinder not working. I remembered that had put some insulation tape on one of my coil lead and though it would be a problem there.

Replaced the whole ignition box and to my surprise my engine kept rattling around.
The trick here is to let it run on idle in order to remove unburnt gas from the spark plug which built up when it was not working well and then drive it for a while to allow it to clean by itself. If it is possible replace the affected spark plug!!
 
#72 ·
.......be aware that the French number the cylinders from the flywheel end,rather than the front of the engine like everyone else,so number 1 cylinder is the one nearest the gearbox,number 4 is one nearest the cambelt end.:rolleyes: ......

Is this really so ? blimey - our UK/Irish Clio 16v 1.2 D4F 2003 has had number 1 lead at TB end (drivers side/alternator side) and number 4 up Clutch end (passenger side/Battery end) :surprise: - seems to be working OK.

Not even sure the lead marked '1' would even stretch over to where number 4 is at the moment!
 
#73 ·
I've just joined the forum with sole intention of adding my recent experience of a 1.2 D4F engine in it helps or is of benefit to any other member here. With regard to what's looks to be a well documented problem here goes.

Step daughter abandoned her Clio 1.2 on my drive way a week after buying it as it onto a lumpy misfire and was undriveable. her partner changed the coil pack with no change. He seemed get hooked on the idea of the cylinder head gasket blowing. I wasn't so sure. ( I'm a motorcycle technician ).
8 weeks ago I stripped the top end anyway, gave it a full refurb', cleaned polished, and valve grind. New gaskets and seals all round. New plugs. water pump. cam belt you name it.

The engine restarted but still had a misfire. Injector check revealed two were down so replaced all of them. Still misfiring. Looking into this models' history across a number of websites reveals a huge weakness in the wiring harnesses of these cars especially the injector looms. Renault changed from the rubber encased looms to the ones with a hard plastic guard casing.

i changed mine to a later style injector loom. I still had a misfire. Only after viewing another discussion between two other auto electrician did hit upon my solution to a very obscure fault. The coil pack will not charge sufficiently if there is any amount of current leakage due to a short to earth or between conductors in the loom. It weakens the available current to the coils and reduced the dwell charge time. One or more plugs will not produce a big enough spark to ignite properly.

One comment by I've seen is about the wiring looms having a tendency to rot slightly. ( Renault it seems , like on Honda motorcycles lacquer their wires before insulation is put on. The lacquer turns corrosive overtime. Crazy reall. The result is weak wiring. Any amount of wear on the insulation with result in shorts and arcing.

My answer to this was to let loose a full can of 'Damp Start' aerosol over all parts visible wiring loom all connectors plugs and sensors.
Don't confuse this with 'eazistart' which is totally different and explosive!. The damp start is a spray on evaporative hardening plastic coating which seals the wiring.

I now have a brilliant little runner which I now use as a local commuter car.
 
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