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TDC Sensor Replacement (with pictures!)

950K views 327 replies 189 participants last post by  Dancingdad 
#1 · (Edited)
I had to change the TDC in my mother in laws '99 Megane 1.4 today, so I thought I'd take a couple of pictures as everyone seems to want them.

First off, here is the view from looking over the engine



Secondly, here is the view going into the right hand side of the engine as you look into it



Thirdly, I removed the air box, you don't need to, but it makes access easier and found the TDC



Here it is unbolted...



Simply unclip and replace with the new part.

Old and new...



I know everyone says it's an easy job, and...honestly...it really is!
 
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#14 ·
Nine times out of ten the TDC sensor won't throw up a fault code,so it's not neccessary to have the ECU codes cleared.Even if the ECU does have a fault code in the memory,as long as it's getting the right signals from the sensor,then it will be OK.It might be worth having the ECU read if your continuing to have problems.
 
#13 ·
Hi, my scenic has also started to have problems starting from cold - normally taking half a dozen engine turns to start. My only reservation at this point is that its an 8v engine whereas all the other reported problems seem to be with the 16v.

Would anyone know if both engines suffer with the same problem?
 
#16 ·
Brilliant! Thanks.

I was having starting problems with my 2001 Megane 1.4, eventually I found that if I tried three or four quick turns of the ignition in succession it would start - the problem being the starter motor would give out or key break if I'd carried on using that solution!

I followed your instructions and initially didn't even replace the TDC sensor, just sprayed it with a dose of WD40... voila, problem fixed, I do intend to replace the part in the next couple of weeks though.
 
#17 ·
Do i need this?

Great thread...for me anyway. For the second time in my cars life I'm going to change the TDC sensor. Changed last one about 18 months ago. Just phoned dealer for price of TDC £25, that's not a problem but they now say that this part has been updated and I need to purchase a 'loom connector' so I can fit this new type TDC. Anyone heard about this?
 
#19 ·
Great thread...for me anyway. For the second time in my cars life I'm going to change the TDC sensor. Changed last one about 18 months ago. Just phoned dealer for price of TDC £25, that's not a problem but they now say that this part has been updated and I need to purchase a 'loom connector' so I can fit this new type TDC. Anyone heard about this?
i dont understand if you changed the sensor.. how does it fail again? shouldnt it be ok since u've put a new one in..
 
#22 · (Edited)
Great pics scen1c, I have 2003 Kangoo 1.6 Automatic Gearbox with the same warm starting probs and this is the nearest i've got to finding the location Top Dead Centre sensor but still can't see it, have removed the air filter box but loads of coolant pipes in the way still.
I should point out that I am disabled and my wife is searching for it, and has done everything but stand on her head and still cant see it. We did an oil change the other day as we are a bit strapped for cash, and oil was spilt down the exhaust manifold heat shield any way there was a lot of smoke for a few days until it burnt off. Since then we've had the warm starting problem so it points to the Top Dead Centre sensor having read some of the messages on here.
I have a Renault Clio Haynes manual as they don't do one for the Kangoo, am I right in saying that the engines are the same in both models.

Please Please!! I would really appreciate any advice as wife won't use the car now and we live out in the sticks.
Cheers and many thanks to whoever started this fantastic site.

PS Wife has jus moved all the pipes and prised the wiring loom over and it's not there, can't see it anywhere surely it must have one??
 
#23 ·
Hi there congo .I only fixed the TDC sensor on kangoo 3 days ago.The best way i can describe how to find it is...........
Looking from front of car it is on right hand side of engine block juut above where engine joins clutch/gearbox.It might be easer to see if you remove air filter and airbox but is not really necessary.Looking at engine from side you should be able to see a cressant shaped bracket with two 6mm bolts (need 10mm spanner).Sensor is attached to this bracket.If you have one of the old type replacements it is just a case of removing bracket ,unpluging plug and replacing with new one.If you have the updated TDC sensor you will have to cut wires after plug and join on new plug.Its a little bit more fiddley but still easy enough.HOPE THIS HELPS
 
#24 ·
Hi Taraman6.
Many thanks for that. I'll get the wife to have another look.
Doing most work on this car would be so much easier if the bonnet were to open front to back instead of having to lay across the wing, wouldn't you agree.
With the gearbox being auto and a different shape will the Top Dead Centre sensor be in the same position as a manual box.
With your description hopefully we will find it today. Otherwise I did think of taking a picture with the air box removed and inserting it with my next message.
 
#26 ·
How do you check if the TDC sensor is faulty

A couple if weeks ago I was attempting to start my Laguna I. It coughed once but didn't start. Now it just turns over but no ignition. I thought the cam belt had gone but that's ok, the compression's ok and there's fuel but no spark on any plug. Would this indicate a Top Dead Centre sensor fault and if so, how do I check it out.

Thanks for any advice
 
#27 · (Edited)
Hope you don't mind me tacking this onto this thread......

Lag 11 Top Dead Centre sensor replacement or cleaning with photos. The Lag 11 TDC Sensor looks just the same but more awkward to get at.

Scroll down to my post.

Perhaps a mod could put these in the FAQs.
 
#29 ·
Horrible on a 1.6L 16V W Plate Scenic

I've just performed this little stunt on a W plate 1.6L 16V Scenic Alize and it was nowhere as easy as you would think...

The sensor (made by renault) has two quite deep captive nuts fastened to the front plate that will only fit into the rear of the mounting points on my vehicle (not the front) as shown in your pictures. This means that width of the sensor now causes serious clearance issues and it took me 20 minutes to get the old one out and nearly an hour and a half to get the replacement in.

Because you have to come at it from the back getting the sensor back in requires you to work blind in a space not quite big enought to tilt the sensor to its correct orientation without serious risk of damaging the wiring connector (I seriously recommend you don't try to fit it with the wires pre-connected).

The whole process is seriously hampered by the placement of the main wiring loom only centimeters above where the sensor should go (as in your pictures). This loom is unmoveable and caused me some serious grief- as it seems to be deliberately designed to hurt anybody attempting the process via some quite sharp dodgy moldings on its underside directly above where the senor fits.

All in all a pain. I'm not a mechanic, but i am reasonably competent at this sort of stuff - and I wouldn't attempt it again on this particular type of car - my poor twisted fingers will happily pay for someone else to do it next time.

This car has only got 33k on it and this is the second replacement that its had.

A poor product badly designed.

:mad:
 
#97 · (Edited)
Things that helped me with my Scenic

I've just performed this little stunt on a W plate 1.6L 16V Scenic Alize and it was nowhere as easy as you would think...

The sensor (made by renault) has two quite deep captive nuts fastened to the front plate that will only fit into the rear of the mounting points on my vehicle (not the front) as shown in your pictures. This means that width of the sensor now causes serious clearance issues and it took me 20 minutes to get the old one out and nearly an hour and a half to get the replacement in.

Because you have to come at it from the back getting the sensor back in requires you to work blind in a space not quite big enought to tilt the sensor to its correct orientation without serious risk of damaging the wiring connector (I seriously recommend you don't try to fit it with the wires pre-connected).

The whole process is seriously hampered by the placement of the main wiring loom only centimeters above where the sensor should go (as in your pictures). This loom is unmoveable and caused me some serious grief- as it seems to be deliberately designed to hurt anybody attempting the process via some quite sharp dodgy moldings on its underside directly above where the senor fits.

All in all a pain. I'm not a mechanic, but i am reasonably competent at this sort of stuff - and I wouldn't attempt it again on this particular type of car - my poor twisted fingers will happily pay for someone else to do it next time.

This car has only got 33k on it and this is the second replacement that its had.

A poor product badly designed.

:mad:
I had the same problems as smiggles. It was a very frustrating job - I just finished it - took me several hours to remove and reinsert the sensor.
I unscrewed three bolts that held the main wiring loom - this allowed me to lift it a few millimeters. Along with some WD40 on loom's bottom eased the release of the TDC sensor.
Since the room for play is very little the position of the sensor when being removed and reinserted is very important. For me - it was with the the washers side up - that is when removing it I tried to lift the sensor and rotate it counter-clockwise so that the magnet that was facing the flying wheel was now facing the battery side - and then slide it away from me to the firewall side. Same route for reinserting it.
 
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