Ok folks, here follows a tutorial on replacing the rear brake pads on a Scenic II fitted with the automatic handbrake.
To ensure the handbrake is off when the car is switched off, pull the handbrake lever and push the centre button as you switch the car off. Then remove the keycard from the dash. The “handbrake disengaged” alarm will sound, but will stop after a few moments.
As we'll be pushing the pistons back into the calipers there is a chance you might spill some brake fluid from the reservoir unless you remove the cap to allow the fluid back. Pics 1, 2 & 3 show the engine cover in place and removed & how to gain access to the reservoir.
Jack up the rear of the car and remove the wheel centre cap to gain access to the wheel nuts. Remove the wheel and you're confronted with the brake disc & caliper assembly ( Pics 4 & 5 )
Loosen then remove the top and bottom caliper bolts then remove the caliper ( pic 6 )
You'll then be left with the carrier part of the caliper and the pads ( pic 7 )
Remove the pads and small metal clips ( pics 8, 9 & 10 show the bits removed and a comparison between old and new pads)
Fit the new pads and clips - remembering to copaslip any areas where the pads come in contact with the clips. I tried to turn the piston ( clockwise ) back into the caliper but in the end had to borrow a special tool from a local garage to do the job ( pics 11, 12, 13 & 14 )
Then refit the outer part of the caliper & remember to tighten both bolts ( pics 15, 16 & 17 )
Before you replace the wheel remember to pump the brake pedal until you feel the pedal as it was before you started - unless you have a morbid desire to crash your car !
Only after you’ve done this can you operate the handbrake.
Lower the car to the floor then do the same on the opposite side :d If you're only doing the rear brakes, check the level in the reservoir and top up with Dot 4 fluid if needed, then replace the cap and the engine cover.
So no need to pop the lever in the boot ( handbrake release ) .
They do look very worn as opposed to your fronts, I presume they must have been binding for some time ? but the discs do not show signs of binding ? rusty yes .
Another great post !! Thanks for the info on the mileage you got from the pads, my Scenic just turned 20000 miles. How much were the front and rear pads out of interest ? Regards Damian.
John, no need to pop the lever in the boot I too was quite surprised the discs showed no serious damage due to the brakes binding & I had to use a small hammer and a screwdriver to get the pads out of the calipers due to all the cr@p that had built up around them. Funny thing is though, every time I washed the car I gave the rear brakes a bloomin' good blast with the jet wash. I thought that should've got rid of all the cr@p. Obviously not eh ! I reckon as there was no copaslip used when the car was built, this was the root cause of the pads seizing.
Thanks Leroy.
Damian, I'll check the receipt tomorrow and let you know. I did get a discount though, as I know the storeman
1. Caliper bolts are not be reused, probably in your brake pad replacement set there are new ones. Thread locker is to be used.
2. When removing inspect the rubber seals of bolts, and replace if damaged.
3. Brake caliper piston can be pushed back also by: hand by bleeding the brake circuit from the bleeding screw next to the piston itself, or if you don't want to sacrifice any brake fluid and you don't have the "special tool" just use adjustable wood clamp with screw handle and push back the piston
And one piece of advise - do not turn the piston - that damages the seals.
1 - The new pads came supplied with onlt 2 new bolts, not 4. Yes I did apply threadlock to the old bolts.
2 - All seals were inspected and found to be in good condition.
3 - These pisrons require to be wound clockwise as they're pushed back in. This "rewinds" the handbrake mechanism within the caliper. The Blue Point special tool used, has two lugs on the end piece that locate into the piston and turn it as the piston returns.
I am an ex-time served mechanic and worked in the trade for over 9 years. This was the first time I'd done a set of pads on the Scenic, and before I even attempted the job I had asked a Renault Tech of there was anything specific I had to look out for when doing this job. His only remark was that the piston had to be wound back into the caliper and not just pushed back. I didn't want to take the chance on wrecking the calipers, so I did as he suggested.
No doubt there are cars who's rear caliper pistons can be just pushed back, but this isn't one of them.
On a slightly different note, it was a pleasure to find someone willing to give a little bit of info to help me out AND lend me the tool to do the job :d
3 - These pisrons require to be wound clockwise as they're pushed back in. This "rewinds" the handbrake mechanism within the caliper. The Blue Point special tool used, has two lugs on the end piece that locate into the piston and turn it as the piston returns.
I am an ex-time served mechanic and worked in the trade for over 9 years. This was the first time I'd done a set of pads on the Scenic, and before I even attempted the job I had asked a Renault Tech of there was anything specific I had to look out for when doing this job. His only remark was that the piston had to be wound back into the caliper and not just pushed back. I didn't want to take the chance on wrecking the calipers, so I did as he suggested.
No doubt there are cars who's rear caliper pistons can be just pushed back, but this isn't one of them.
On a slightly different note, it was a pleasure to find someone willing to give a little bit of info to help me out AND lend me the tool to do the job :d
:rofl: OMG! Really? And for 9 years you haven't learnt that brake pushpistons are NEVER turned because the seals (thin rubber O-rings around the piston) tear off?
Man, I am no mechanic, but even I know there's completely different way of releasing hand brake cable.
And what's more - why even bother release the handbrake cable? What will happen in your "expert" opinion if you just push the piston back w/ tool or no tool?
Hey, do you recall - there's a guy here in this forum who complained about brakes failure and strage smell.
Maybe just some "expert" like you turned his pistons too.
And in order not to bring the discussion on a lower level - please do refer to a single Renault Technical note specifying turning of brake piston in release of handbrake cable.
For 9 years in the job you should be familiar with Renault TNs right?
Shish, people be careful when giving advice. Someone might get hurt this way.
I have pliers.
They're called special tool # 2192 as per the dialogys.
Man, just look at the last photo - where the handbrake cable hooks, and tell me honestly - do you really think that by rotating the piston it would unlock?
It's getting a lame discussion although a useful one maybe.
Renault says "never rotate". What's more to discuss here? Beliefs? Probabilities?
Not with my car, no.
Hi Demon - many thanks for your comments regarding the fitting of brake pads - and no doubt you have opened a lively discussion here on this forum. I have a copy of the official renault workshop manual and thought I'll have a look and see what it recommends. It states there are two distinctly different tools for retracting caliper pistons and are listed as follows.
Front:- Tool No. Fre.823
Rear:- Toll No. Fre 1190-01
Both are distinctly different - the front tool only pushes the piston back but the rear tool pushes the piston back whilst turning it clockwise. It makes no mention of not turning the front brakes caliper pistons but it accepted practice in the motor trade not to - this is to minimise damage from an excessively worn or scored piston. The Haynes manual also states "turn the rear caliper piston clockwise, whilst similtaneously pressing the piston into the cylinder until it will go no further"
Just hope this will clarify the situation.
Given the fact that I have no inclination to get into a public slagging match over this issue AND the fact that I KNOW I'm right, I'll keep my distasteful comments to myself.
Thanks to the people who read this post and have commented constuctively.
You're quite right, but just to clarify, the piston has to be rotated to reset the handbrake adjuster - it's the same as Saab used on their front discs, I had to make a tool to turn the pistons on those in the eighties when I had one.
Thanks for the excellent post, Gonescenile, I'm looking forward to the cambelt change tutorial ...?
Selwonk - thanks for your input ....sensible and honest as always.
Charles - cambelt tutorial ? ......... wait till I pick myself off the floor ..... heh heh.
It seems there's been a wee bit confusion / misunderstanding over what was written. There is no need to remove the handbrake cable, this is not the part of the mechanism that needs reset as such. The part that is "reset" is an internal ratchet, part of the handbrake that moves the piston out anti-clockwise as the pads naturally wear down, when the handbrake is applied. If this is not wound back in, the piston will not fully return into the caliper.
I'm not sure of the consequence of not winding the piston back on this particular car, but I do know of a few that would result in a knackered caliper. It's an expensive mistake to make eh
The part that is "reset" is an internal ratchet, part of the handbrake that moves the piston out anti-clockwise as the pads naturally wear down, when the handbrake is applied. If this is not wound back in, the piston will not fully return into the caliper.
I have put my new caliper on, the piston has not adjusted itself yet. Is that done by pulling the handbrake?
I will read some more.
Other side to put on tomorrow.
In the Haynes manual for this vehicle it states "if fitting new pads it will be necessary to retract the piston fully into the caliper bore by rotating it in a clockwise direction"
Hope this helps, regards Damian.
Great post. I'm going to my discs and pads on my laguna II shortly. These have a bearing built into the disc hub. I have a caliper windback tool so I'll try and do as good a post as you have. This is what forums should be about.
BTW DemonXP is completely wrong about winding back the calipers. Later Renault REAR calipers must be wound back using the tool that you used. Fords also have a similar set up. It is imperative that you do this. Forcing it back will damage the caliper. Front calipers just push straight back. I bought a laser wind back too and it covers all of the modern and popular makes.
Lee
Great post. I'm going to my discs and pads on my laguna II shortly. These have a bearing built into the disc hub. I have a caliper windback tool so I'll try and do as good a post as you have. This is what forums should be about.
Lee
these rear calipers are the same sort of system as on my 2001 Espace.
you can wind the pistons back using a 6"G-clamp where the threaded end has a rotating foot, it takes a few seconds a very small amount a pressure and the piston will start to rotate as you wind the handle.
The pistons run on a long thread/spiral and if you operate the hand brake part with your fingers it will push the piston back out.
It took me about 3 hours to get the first side done (visiting Renault Forums after the first hour of frustration) and a half-hour to do the other.
Just a couple of things to add (sorry if it's been said and I've missed it):
The handbrake cable unhooks fairly easily, which then allows the caliper to be swung round for better accessibility. I laid my two wheels flat on top of each other and supported it on them.
I wasted a lot of time turning the cylinder, expecting it to screw itself in, but it doesn't.
Then, as suggested above, I used a 150mm wood clamp to put the pressure on; it needed quite a bit. Then I screwed the cylinder in with a super-wrench; adjustable crescent pliers would probably do too.
you have to get the rotating end as central as you can on the piston, the other end has to be parallel on the nut for the hand brake adjuster, as you start to wind, the piston will rotate if its all parallel.
Thanks for suggesting an alternative rear caliper "turner"
Did you mean one of these G clamp + foots:
And, many many thanks for all the other excellent contributors - especially as I'm on my haunches all day tomorrow, doing all four wheels. After many 100s of pad changes - i find myself nervous in front of Renault modern complexity
----------
A few ancilliary questions, if I could -
1) The pipes to the caliper appear solid type - so bending back or allow to hang is not an option ! Do you disconnect at the caliper of further down the way?
2) Renault supplied pads now come with a strange shaped clip .. (square section, a large and a small grip area, parallel to one another) any advice on orientation?
3) In the last 8 months there was a recall on Scenics for brakes ... what was the exact detail of what Renault changed?