How To Repair Laguna 2 Heater Blower Not Working On Speeds 1,2 And 3. - Renault Forums :: Independent Renault forum

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How To Repair Laguna 2 Heater Blower Not Working On Speeds 1,2 And 3.

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Old 9th August 2008   #1
5th wheel
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the ballast resistor is located behind the blower motor ,it can be tricky to access,as i am 6ft 2" the easiest way for me was to lower the passenger seat backrest down and get your head into the footwell.the wiring block is also on a short loom with a white square block one end, and a black rounded ends about 3" the other end. which has 2 5.5mm bolt screws holding it in place in the blower motor,remove the loom from both connections.on one side of the board is a saftey wire in the shape of a letter (W) if this has come away from soldering joint your blowers will not work,if the card has burn't out reno charge 52.00 for card and 34 52 for loom. good look.



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Old 10th August 2008   #2
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Nice one 5th
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Old 3rd January 2009   #3
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blower fan motor

great pictures, can anyone tell me if they have tried to get these fixed by a technician that repairs circuit boards, could be cheaper than a new one. my scenic has this problem its a scenic 1, 1999 model with aircon, does anyone have knowledge of where i locate it on the scenic
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Old 6th June 2009   #4
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hi have the same problem but my fan just stoped dead have located ballast resistor and is same as urs what do you mean by the loom ..i cant tell if the resistor is broken or not ..i have ben told it can be the heater switch ..its self if so i dont know how to get to that ..there were loads of leaves in the pollen filter so have cleaned that ..so i think its off to maplin to see if they can test it ..
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Old 6th June 2009   #5
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Ballast resistor

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Originally Posted by sheriffdude View Post
have located ballast resistor and is same as urs what do you mean by the loom ..i cant tell if the resistor is broken or not ......so i think its off to maplin to see if they can test it ..
The Ballast resistor is just a low resistance in series with the motor. You can tell if it's working if you have a multimeter.
I dont have the board in my hand so my description of how to measure it is a guide.
Either end of the long curly track on the green board will probably go to the pins on the connector, just trace it through visually. The little W thing is prob a safety fuse in series with the long curly bit, (I'm guessing please see caveat at end). When you've found the pins it goes to, with the multimeter switched to resistance or ohms ***937; touch the probes of the meter to each other and the meter should read around zero ish. Now put the probes on the pins connected to the track and you should get a reading of a few ohms, I don't know the exact figure but it doesn't matter, could be anywhere between A fraction of ***937; and 20***937;. If you get any low resistance reading and the continuity of the track is ok then its prob working ok, if the meter reads open circuit or very high resistance it's not ok. Get someone who knows how to use a meter if you aren't sure.
There are safety implications in replacing the sections of curly bit with (wirewound) resistors, you can't do that unless
1) the W safety link is intact, and 2)the wattage rating of the resistors is sufficient as they will get hot
It's probable that if it has failed either the track will be cracked near the connector or the safety W will be burnt out. (I'm only guessing that its a safety W, it might just be another low resistance to control the speed?)
hope that helps a little.
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