Drain pipe location

There must be a reason for the manufacturer fitting the cap in the first place - believe me they will not fit unnecessary components (anything to reduce cost). The end cover on the pipe serves two purposes. Firstly it acts as a one way valve - it allows water out but stops water and crud getting into that end of the pipe Secondly an open pipe subjected to the wind will make a distinct whistling sound - would give a boost to those who fit wheel bearngs. I just happened to notice lumps of crud lying at the bottom front of the sill (in the photo) - did they fall out of the pipe or are they migrating up towards the now unprotected pipe. It it was mine I would clean out the cap and replace - it would less hassle next time round. Very well done for tracking down the prob - no doubt it will be a great help to other forum members.

 

The lumps of crud are out of the bottom of the wing, The pipe doesn't whistle as it is approx 8 inches up behind the arch liner and it had a block of hard sponge below it, therefore I can't see it getting blocked or water traveling 4 foot up it either :rofl:

 

How about the bottom end of the rear tubes? Have you located them? I suppose they might be in a similar spot behind the liner of the rear wheel arches. Probably infront of the wheel. I did try to get the front liners off. Released them enough to wash the crud out, but didn't discover the tube ends. I'll have another go!

 

Drain pipe cover

Hi RichardMS – was the piece of hard sponge behind the pipe? – if so it’s to stop it vibrating or rattling. Remember when travelling water being thrown off the wheel will be a very fine spray travelling at what ever speed you drive at (up to 70MPH). Fine spray can get into the smallest gaps. I agree it is unlikely water could travel 4 feet up the tube but maybe you forgot that water can freeze in the winter. I maybe wrong but I would like to hear your opinion as to why you think the manufacturer fitted it in the first place.

 

No the sponge type stuff was below the pipe, as for why the bungs were fitted you'll have to ask Renault that one, It wouldn't be the first time a manufacturer has made a mistake. I would personally put a right angle bend pointing toward the rear with your theory.
The pipe I would say has a 10mm bore so I don't see it getting blocked that easy with nothing on the bottom of the pipe, just my opinion, at least I won't have water running out of my interior lights for a while now.

 

Just checked the rear drainpipes. They emerge behind each rear wheel (on my estate). Not covered by lining. Easy to get to. Also has the black bung on the end. If when testing rear drainpipes, water emerges anywhere except behind rear wheels, you have a blockage! I was able to pass a curtain wire from the osr and out of the sunroof. The other side is blocked and no amount of prodding from either end unblocked it. This time water came out halfway down the seatbelt post (but this is not the side that the footwell was getting waterlogged). Hopefully with 3 drainpipes running freely things should dry up!

 

If water is getting into the seatbelt post it suggests a break or leak in the pipe and water beingt the lazy stuff that it is will alway stake the shortest route. Looks like a strip-down job for a permanent fix.

 

May not be a pipe leak as water can flood OVER the sunroof frame if the pipe is blocked. However, if the pipe won't unblock, replacing the pipe somehow might be the easiest solution. Any suggestions of a chemical to pour in to shift / dissolve the block? The blockage is probably leaves / seeds as it is near to the sunroof.

 

Hi Alecd - if that was the case would it not show on the roof liner first - just a thought. I would be very wary of using chemicals as they might cause damage to paintwork, plastic, sealants, upholstery, etc. Try a piece of curtain wire with the plastic stripped of one end and stretch it slightly so the end looks like a corkscrew. As you push the wire it keep turning it so it almost acts like a drill. A solution of vinegar and water may help soften and blocked residue.

 

I think the roof lining has a plastic / rubber lining - so the water doesn't show on the roof, but runs down the seatbelt pillar or inside the door seal. I have a drain clearing spring with cork screw end, but I'll try the modified curtain wire and vinegar!

 

I found a great YouTube video that showed all of this in great detail.

The drain tubes end inside the plastic inner wheel arch.

It'e easy to peel these back just with your fingers.

The rubber pipe ends have a flap valve on the end.

Algae and slime grows preventing the flap valve from opening.

Remove the rubber pipe ends and shake/gently squeeze the tubes. Gunk dissolves, water gushes and problem solved. Don't put the rubbers back!

Isn't great that the tube ends are not water tight so that the water drips all over your fuse box?

Vive La France, Vive La Conception Revoultionaire!

 

Re: Drain pipe cover

The foam is to stop rattle, but it also adds stored water casing rust.

The crud from the pipe will store in the inner wing, wash it out regularly.

However, remove the rubber pipe ends as they are the cause of the problem.

Normally (on other cars) the drains come out through pillar and sill, with a ducks beak type valve, but these are just a very crude flap.

 

Re: Drain pipe cover

Oops,\Miss-spelled "causing" rust..., sorry. And the foam just vibrates down all the time. Sorry for confusion!

We checked our foot wells this morning after torrential rain, front ones are dry, but back ones still wet, although not more than 20 mm as was the case in the front!!! Thought they must be lowest point and therefore took longer to dry.

I have also just read the rest of the posts on this topic and have seen the ones on "rear sunroof drain pipes" I didn't know I had separate ones for the rear, so I will be setting about this task. I'll take some piccies and post them.