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Scenic II handbrake module

77K views 57 replies 31 participants last post by  barry64 
#1 · (Edited)
After my handbrake module died a slow death a few weeks ago I've purchased it's replacement.
Not a cheap item at just over £500 ( unless you get some sort of discount :eek: ) I'll also be replacing the rear brake pads, while I'm "in there." It would be daft not to.
This is the job for tomorrow. I'll take the camera along and capture some images that'll hopefully be of use to others.
I'll be using a recently recommended independant to get the unit programed rather than the dealership due to a mix up with pricing :eek: Surprise surprise eh ?
Once it's swapped over I'll dismantle the old unit to see if I can pinpoint any obvious issues that may have caused the failure ...... other than the fact it's not long been in for the handbrake recall. Sorry for being cynical :(
 

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#2 · (Edited)
Okay then, here follows a small tutorial on how to change the handbrake control unit on a 2005 Grand Scenic II.

The unit itself is located under the rear of the car, centrally mounted just aft of the fuel tank.
It has 3 mounting points, two bolts located in the recess beside the jack storage area inside the car and one smaller bolt holding the unit in place from underneath. The two outer/larger bolts appear to take most of the weight of the unit and the smaller single bolt appears to be only for supporting the unit to allow the other two to be located/tightened.

A cable runs from either side to each rear caliper, with the N/S cable running over the exhaust heat shield. Both are supported halfway by a small bracket. The cables are held in place at the caliper by a “C” shaped clip. The cables then sit in place to pull the handbrake lever on the rear of each caliper.

A third cable runs between the spare wheel ( if fitted) and the rear silencer up to the floor of the car where an emergency release handle is located inside the car.

Last but not least the wiring loom connects to the unit by way of a multiplug. This is released/connected by way of a ¼ turn clip.

I started by removing the yellow “T” shaped emergency release handle in the boot. Push the small clip at the top of the "T" and push the cable up and it pops free from the handle. Under the car, pull the plastic mounting free from the floor of the car and release the cable from it's two clips.

I removed the “C” clips at either caliper and cut the handbrake cables to release them from the levers and pulled the cables from their supporting brackets.

Then I removed the one bolt supporting the exhaust heat shield to allow the N/S cable to be pulled free.
I released the wiring loom from the unit and loosened the small supporting bolt before removing the two bolts inside the car.

Once underneath the car again I removed the small supporting bolt and the unit was free from the car.
Refitting was just a basic reversal of the above.

I positioned the unit so I could run the cables in the general direction they would take. I refitted the heat shield once the N/S cable was located above it.

I loosely fitted the small supporting bolt before locating and tightening the two bolts inside the car followed by tightening the small lower bolt fully.

Then the emergency release cable was clipped into place, pushed through the floor and the handle refitted.

Each handbrake cable was clipped into it’s supporting bracket and run to the caliper. The “C” clips were refitted to hold them in place and either end was looped over the handbrake lever. At this point the new plastic locating clips were fitted to each lever ( these come supplied with the unit )

After a check that all bolts and clips were secure I refitted the wiring loom.

The handbrake itself was not operational at this point as the unit has to be reprogrammed/initialised before it will work correctly. An “electronic fault” warning showed up on the dash once the car was restarted. This “fault” message cleared once the unit was reprogrammed.

I had the reprogramming done by an Independent Renault Specialist rather than either of my local dealerships due to the cost involved. The Indy completed the task in less than 1/3 of the time and cost quoted by the dealership.
If anyone in Central Scotland would like contact details then please contact me. I'll be pleased to pass them on :d

I have some other pics if anyone needs them .....just ask and I'll post them up.

I’ll pull the old unit apart sometime this week and attempt to locate the source of the failure .....
 

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#6 ·
Having opened up the module, there was no instantly noticable point of failure. I suspect the motor had failed.
I had a problem with one of the handbrake cables - partially seized - that had dragged on for about 2yrs and I suspect this may be the root cause of my module failing.
 
#10 ·
No I never actually did find out what caused the failure. I'm no expert on electrics and other than something being obviously burnt out I could see no fault.
It would have been nice to locate the point of failure - even have it repaired - but I'm sure I threw the unit out after a month or so.
The Scenic has since been replaced with another car.
 
#12 ·
As mine was replaced with a new unit, it had to be programmed. My local Renault dealership offered to do this but I found an independant garage to do the work for me.
If you've repaired the original unit then it may only need the "fault" cleared. I would imagine any decent independant garage who have the equipment should be able to do this for you.
 
#14 ·
Clive,
It does make a small hydraulic noise for a couple of seconds as it 'squeezes' shut and when it releases. You get a very clear error message on dash and a prolonged beep.
My unit screamed at me on two occasions! No idea what that was about but I live with the error locking up my dashboard!
 
#15 ·
Our handbreak unit failed so I bought a s/h working unit and fitted it, after much head scratching and a very nice local indi,we found out the unit could not be reprogrammed
so then i removed the cuircit board from the original unit and wired it into the s/h working unit,
still it did not work so we had to pay for a new one.
I could not work out what was broken or had failed.
Ray
 
#16 ·
I have a similar problem with the handbrake. The dash service light is on and it beeps sometimes and puts up the nagging message. I changed the disks and pads some time ago. Used a brake rewind tool and made up a special tool to jam/stretch the handbrake cable to allow some more cable to be released from the main unit.
All worked well but a while after that the brakes started to bind and the warning light appeared. I think this is due to the cables, the brake calipers are ok. I tried forcing some lubricants up the cables with limited success. I think I am going to have to change the brake controller.

I am in the Edinburgh area and don't trust the main dealers from past experience.

1. Did you get your unit from a main dealer?
2. Who/where was the independent garage that reprogrammed.
3. Do you know if the cables can be replaced or from your look inside the unit can they be disengaged to facilitate lubricating the cables?

MOT due very soon so have to get this fixed. I think the dash warning is now an MOT failure.

Any photos of inside the control unit?

Any help much appreciated……
 
#17 · (Edited)
To answer your questions -

Yes the unit was purchased from the main dealer - AC in Stirling.

The indy I used was SWR in Stirling - one of the two guys running the show is ex-Renault. I have their number if you need it.

I have heard of people replacing these cables, but I don't think they are a standard part. I'm sure they had them made up as one off items. Sorry I don't know where.

I'll have a look to see if I have any pics of the inside of the unit.

Edit: sorry no pics of the internals , but here's one of the unit removed with the screws you'll need to remove to gain access to the insides ( in white ) and where the handbrake cables attach ( in red )
 

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#18 ·
Handbrake now fixed.(£530) After finding a source for the unit and reasonable price for programming I ended up having to go to a dealer near Dunfermline as I needed the car fixed quickly.
As it turned out, it was around £65 quid more that it would have been to do it myself and get it programmed.
Anyway I have retained the old unit which I will strip down and take photos of it.
My main problem was the inner cables were jamming due to a rusted and broken outer cable on both sides. The inner cable has a clear plastic cover that had wrinkled and peeled causing it to jam at the end part of the outer cable that is held by the C-clip. This prevented the cable releasing fully as the outer cable moved away from the calliper fixing and the inner cable didn't move. One of the two rubber shock mounts that hold the main unit to the plastic sub frame was also broken. this also allowed the unit to move slightly..
I did strip down the unit, it is easy enough to remove it (remove the spare wheel to make it easier still). Also removing the actuator arm on the calliper to make removing and replacing the cable easy. (Splined shaft)
With the unit cover removed, the cable end caps unscrew allowing you to lubricate the inner cable, whilst moving the cable back and forth so that the lubricant travels down the inner section to the nipple end.
My mistake was that after removing the damaged inner plastic cover, I then cleaned up the broken cable ends...and removed the broken part from inside the cable end termination that the cable should be attached to.
This resulted in shortening the cables by over 10 mm each side. After replacing the unit it worked smoothly ... until it started making a nasty grinding noise, I'm assuming the screw in the motor assembly was screwing in too far and eventually jammed. The unit stopped working. (remember to use silicon gasket sealant when refitting the cover)
I should have fabricated a spacer to put on the end of the cable to compensate for the short cable. Hindsight is a great thing......
Once I open up the unit I will find out what went wrong.
Many thanks for all the info supplied by the Forum.
 
#19 ·
Hi all, thought you all might like to know that the cables come off on Scenic2 HB module, its a doddle remove cover, six screws, watch for gasket, small clip holding plastic sleve on cable lever up gently, slide sleve off, unscrew large plastic retaining round nut! cable now off, it's held on by a ball & claw attachment, plastic sleve stops it from comming off.
Dont forget to remove end from calliper first.
This then allows you to LUBRICATE cable.
I only found out after paying for new unit fitted,,,
lioncrunch
 
#21 ·
Hi Lads, i have just join renualt comunnity, listen i had the same problem with electronic handbrake on my Renault scenic. But i did not want to spend 500 pounds to get the replacement, i found the guy in poland, which repairs electronic hanbrake modulw with one year warranty, cost about 50 euros, he is also able to remanufactured lines if neccessary for 17 euros each, guy reoaired renaualt card for 15 euro, brand new card from that guy cost 65 euro only( for laguna ) card reader repair about 14 euros. Listen , I am waiting for my handbrake back, will take some photos of job done, fit it back to the car an give you quick response on forum.:d
 
#22 ·
After long time since my las post, i found few minutes to write something.
I post my module to the guy in Poland with lines to be checked, in two days i got a phone call so it can be reoaired for 35 pounds plus postage (thirty five pounds if somebody does not believe me). He told me over the phone so there was electronic problem on the borad because the electric motor was overloaded, I mean was not able to pull in lines to apply handbrake,. His suggestion was to check the calipers (stucked pistons) and change the brake pads at rear. I got the parcel , fiited back (my lines were ok) disassembly the calipers, and OMG, right side completely stucked, even moved 2 mm, so cleaned that, fit new brake pads, and voila! it works perfect, .Next day my caliper was stucked but it was not related to the electronic module, but to the caliper. I was talking to my mechanic who was boss of the mechanics in renault garage in Cavan, Ireland, so they are pain in the **** , i mean calipers, when getting cold they are not working properly. He connected me to the computer to reset error codes and ther is an option called EXTREME COLD, he activate EXTREME COLD, it measn so handbrake is not applying automatically, and it is not pulling lines in so hard. Handbrake is working perfect after that.
Total cost 40 euros postage both ways, 35 euros for labour, new pads 17 euros, and my labour. All together less than 100 euro. If somebody interested, i can provide details of that guy, I remember i have no cash profit from recommending him .
 
#49 ·
Hi having very similar problems with my electric brake have had box off cleaned and lubricated all moving parts but still error message on dashboard and no effort or noise coming from the box do you still have any contact details of the person who repaired yours thanks nige
 
#23 ·
Hi folks,

Been reading through this and comparing to what seems a different problem with the handbrake in my wifes scenic.

It shows a [service] warning light while engaged and does not disengage automatically.
It disengages just fine when you use the control on the dash and engages as it should when you turn the engine off.
It holds the car no problems when its engaged.

Anyone had any similar experiences? Does anyone know what the sensor setup is that should trigger the automatic disengage, is it via the ABS sensors or does it have a bespoke sensor circuit?

thanks in advance.
 
#39 ·
Hi folks,

Been reading through this and comparing to what seems a different problem with the handbrake in my wifes scenic.

It shows a [service] warning light while engaged and does not disengage automatically.
It disengages just fine when you use the control on the dash and engages as it should when you turn the engine off.
It holds the car no problems when its engaged.


thanks in advance.
I am having the exact same problem . Everything working fine the other day , now have 'Parking Brake Fault ' on dash and the automatic release has stopped working , so the only way to release HB is to do manually . Is there an easy fix for this problem I havent got £500 spare !!!!

Thanks in advance for any help
 
#24 ·
Not sure if my module will of gone too but here's what has happened to me.

A few months ago we had a spell of cold weather. I set off one morning and the "Service" and the message "Check Parking Brake" popped up. After stopping for a few minutes with the engine off the message and service indicator never came back on.

The other day I arrived home and sure enough the same warnings are being displayed. Again we are in a spell of cold weather and due to the car not driving very well, ok it's the worst car I've ever driven in snow so I don't. The car has been stood for a few days and the message is still there. So having read the thread about the AC I've decided to disconnect the battery for a while to see if this clears the Parking Brake Error and resets the AC. Left battery disconnected for a couple of hours and then tried again. Parking Brake Error still there.

Does anyone think that my parking brake module is on the way out too?
 
#25 ·
Hi, like most of you I have a problem with my hand brake.

The scenario...

Two weeks ago my car went in for an MOT and failed due to sticking rear brakes. I never noticed this prior to the MOT but hey, you dont always pick up on these things. Anyway they fixed it. Later that week I sent the car back to the garage to get the air-con recharged & the heater blower resistor replaced. when they delivered the car back the parking brake warning light was on, but the brakes were functioning as intended. By the time I drove home the warning lights were off (this isn't the first time this has happened so I wast that bothered). The next evening I had the car up on ramps and I fitted a new reverse light switch to the gear box. When I reversed the car off the ramps it all seamed fine but after I removed the ramps and then went to move the car back onto my drive way the automatic hand brake refused to release as I tried to move forward. Now I can put the car in reverse and the hand brake releases as normal, and I can use the handle to manually engage or release the brake (warning light comes on). The motor obviously works but it just will not release the break when trying to move forward. I went back to the garage and they had a look and said it could be the cables going to the handbrake motor, so they changed them.... This made no difference.

The questions...
1. Is it possible that the reverse switch may have something to do with this?
2. I believe that the accelerator and clutch sensors tell the handbrake when to disengage, could the problem be there?
3. If I have to change the electronic brake mechanism and I buy a used second hand one, will I still need to take it to renault to be reprogrammed before it will function?

The car is a Renault Scenic 2005 1.6 16VVT Expression.

Thanks In Advance
 
#26 ·
Hello everyone. This is my first post on the site and I just wanted to say thank you for the valued information.

I bought A 2005 grand scenic with a handbrake fault showing on the dash. The hand brake was completely inoperative and I had to pull the emergency release to drive the car.

Anyway after chatting with Renault in Belfast, I was told £750 would fix it. He was 99% sure it was the computer. I started reading the forums and found conflicting information regarding this problem. I just want to let those who have the same problem know that its not all that bad.

I have a petrol 1.6 and purchased a secondhand unit from a 1.9 diesel for £150. It took me 45 minutes this morning to fit the complete unit. Two 13mm bolts at the foot of the rear seats and one 10mm under the car. Wheels don't even need to be removed or the brake calipers as I had read somewhere.
When I got into the car and switch on, the warning lights went out as the unit self primed, system was fully functional. No programing was required as the unit was from the same type of vehicle. I believe that this is the only requirement when purchasing a secondhand unit.

Well I hope this information is useful to someone in the same position. Next thing is to open the old unit and see if they can be repaired.
 
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