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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi all,

I’ve managed to solve 2 problems now with grateful thanks to help from this forum (electronic and locking wheel nut socket). I now need to change the front brake pads for urgent MOT. I’ve never changed brake pads before so daunted at the prospect concerned about electronic hand brake, brake fluid, bleeding brakes and where to start. I’ve watched this video on youtube a well made general brakes video with clear imagary.

When doing to brakes is it necessary to do front and back or is just front ok ? I’d like to do back brakes at some time but its the fronts that need doing now. I’ve gotten pads for both front and back and mistakenly ordered a left winding caliper tool. Also my vehicles on a slope and can’t go on road due to no mot tax.

please where do I start ? is there a good link/guide to renault espace mk4 with Auto ?

The disk is worn but hope to put new disk on at later date once familiar with this job.

help much appreciated.
 

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Premium Member
Grand Scenic 1.6 2007
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Those disks look badly scored and possibly marginal at an MoT. I wouldn't waste money putting new pads on them. By the look of them they have been replaced before and some kind soul has put copper grease on there to make it easier to get them off. Wouldn't bother with a generic video although the principles are pretty standard for all cars. Could you get a Haynes manual if they do one for that car.
The two screws on the face of the disk hold it on and the caliper carrier will have to come off to let the disk off. It's essential to get the hub and disk spotless going back to make sure the disk runs true.
Generally fronts wear before back but these look badly scored back and front.
The front looks more worn on the outside. This could be an illusion because there might be still a lip on the inner face making it look thicker. In any case the slider pin should be cleaned.
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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Front pads are pretty conventional and can be changed easily by pushing them back steadily, it is recommended to clamp the rubber pipe and open the bleed nipple before doing so, because the abs pump doesn’t like fluid being pushed back through it. Should you choose to undo nipples, bleeding them is easy and done conventionally too. Clean all sliding surfaces on calliper and carrier and apply a thin smear of high temperature grease to aid smooth operation. Those discs look heavily scored so I’d recommend changing them whilst you’re doing the pads, they’re not that expensive.
No need to do rears if not too worn. If you’ve not got access to a scanner with the ability to wind back the epb I suggest you take the car to a garage that has. Doesn’t need to be main dealerships most independents have the facilities nowadays.
HTH
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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You got the first part of the job done, taken lots of photos so you know where things go.

Plus 1 on swap the discs.
While they would probably pass an MOT, unless you can spend 50-100 miles bedding new pads into them, the brakes will not pass on the rolling road brake test.
And with motor on SORN, canna do that

Rear brakes and EPB.... if okay, leave till after MOT.
What sort of EPB is it on that motor?
Big black box with cables going to the rear calipers or piggy back motors on each caliper ?

On slope, no worries.
But make sure wheels are well chocked, decent jack to lift and axle stands to support.
Lift one wheel at a time is safest.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks all for advice. I had dilemma with getting discs due to keeping costs down but have now found cheap pair on ebay. About to buy these £42 pair (I assume thats probably the cheapest I'll get them?) I've put in my car details and shows as compatible also seems half the price of many other sellers.

In meantime I'll take wheels off give the calipers a knock to loosen them ready also check got correct spanner for bleed nipple and lubricate the caliper bolts ready for removeable. Will keep you updated. Many thanks.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Discs are a deffo failure,, If you look at the discs, you will see two screws holding the disc in place...
So before you worry about them breaking off, They are there for only one reason, ... Making your life easier when putting the wheel back on.
Take the calliper, and carrier off, if the screws refuse to move, with the wheel on full lock, smack the rear of the disc hard, at the two areas where the screws are positioned..
If they do break off in the hub, make sure you align the holes in the disc, with where the screws would be..
If any part of the thread of the screw is protruding then when you fit the disc it will not go far enough onto the hub, as disc part that touches the hub, the two mating faces MUST touch,,
You will need copper slip, when the disc is off, clean the hub surface..
Apply a smear of copper grease on the hub to disc mating areas, a smear is all you need.
On the brake pads, if you want to use copper slip on the rear of the pads you can, but your pads will come with anti squeal pads already fitted, so its not needed there,.
The ears of the brake pads, these will need a smear..
The calliper carrier where the brake pads fit to the ears, these need to be free of anything that will stop the pad from moving freely but not so that it is lose.
If the ears of the pads have paint, or slightly burred, file this off, before fitting.

Can you see the spring that is fitted into the calliper, the two holes, a smear of copper slip inside them,,
Now right at the top of these springs, the part that touches the carrier ..
The carrier where the spring touches,, this wants cleaning, as much if not better than the parts where the ears of the pads fit, again a smear of grease on them.. The refitting of that spring is the hardest part
The sliders as in the bolts/studs/pins that hold the calliper to carrier the parts that allow the calliper move back and forward, these get a rubber substance on them, this will come off with WD40, and some fine wet and dry, if really bad. Spray these with wd40 when refitting, if you dont have CV, or Rubber grease, caution do not use thread lock on these..
The problem you might have, getting the piston back, because its come so far out, with a small screwdriver, lift the seal, from where the brake pad touches end, spray wd40 in there. This will allow the piston to go back easier..
Dont forget to take the reservoir cap off, make sure IF Some clown has topped it up that you get some out, before forcing the piston back..
Lots of people recommend undoing the bleed nipple..
I AM REALLLLLLLLLY against that,, ..
Few reasons,,,, but this is me, if you want to, then ok not my car...
If the bleed screw slightly undoes , then breaks off, you are fubarred, ..
If it breaks straight off with out moving, though its broken, its no biggy..
Not really needed, other than for convenience of bleeding brakes, but brakes can be bled through the pipe,...
You have now got to bleed a system, ok if you do it all the time. Or you have a
brake pipe flaring tool, because, once nipple is broken, then unless pipes are new, then pipe will go t!ts up,
Dont take it that with new pipes, bleed screw has been touched..
As you can change every brake pipe . master cylinder, and reservoir, without touching one bleed screw

Sods law will be, once one part of the job goes t!ts up, it carries on
Thats the reason I dont touch bleed nipples, on the braking system..
A hours job, for what you are going to do, can turn into a 5 hour job, and :frown2: I have the tears to prove it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
many thanks for advice. Sound like my dad - He doesn't have the health to help me nowadays but been on phone today and he said very similar - he was like the guy in last summer wine always in oily boiler suit and engine parts on the dinner table (when I was growing up) he'd eat his dinner oily hands with a spoon and said was the best tool. I ordered brake discs these will arrive Thursday. tonight (just back indoors now) took wheel off and just weighing up job. Didn't loosen the bleed nipple (thankfully) - was going to measure up correct spanner yet but did spray on pro gas sprayed main caliper bolts also. Will be very wary with this job. I'll just order this copper grease also this brake cleaner (all arriving Thursday). If I can get mot by the weekend that would be great. I already have multipurpose grease should I get this also CV grease ? thanks.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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No multi purpose is just as good, Copper slip eats the rubber, thats why its a nono.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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If the bleed screw slightly undoes , then breaks off, you are fubarred, ..
Ah.
You met my Scenic......

Unbenownst to me, some very nice guy who had previously played with the brakes had stripped the bleed nipple.
Then glued it in.
Which I found when I put spanner on and leant ever so slightly on it. :crying2::crying2::crying2:
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum, I let the Dogs out
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Which I found when I put spanner on and leant ever so slightly on it. :crying2::crying2::crying2:
You missed a bit off the end of that statrement DD, the full statement being "Which I found when I put spanner on and leant ever so slightly on it with a 2lb Lump Hammer":crying2::crying2::crying2:

>:)
 

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You would have thought this whole nipple thing would have been sorted by now :)
If I had a penny for everytime a quick fluid replacement turned into car unusable I would have .....2p.
I've put stainless ones on the bike although God only knows where that could end up.
I've been very lucky with a 50:50 mix of kerosene and nail varnish remover (acetone)
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Broke so many years ago DD, then worked out, if got change a pipe, hold pedal down no fluid loss, or replacing flexis or pipes to calliper, just position calliper so the air would come out at its highest point.
Lost so many hours on braking systems, cannot be beaten now...

Still lose the bloody hours mind..
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum, I let the Dogs out
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You would have thought this whole nipple thing would have been sorted by now :)
If I had a penny for everytime a quick fluid replacement turned into car unusable I would have .....2p.
I've put stainless ones on the bike although God only knows where that could end up.
I've been very lucky with a 50:50 mix of kerosene and nail varnish remover (acetone)
Here is an Idea that calliper manufacturers could use, its called a “bolt”, you carry the bleed nipple with you when you want to do the job, you clamp off the brake hose, remove the bolt from the calliper, fit the bleed nipple, remove the clamp, bleed the brakes, re-clamp the flexible hose, remove the bleed nipple and reinstall the bolt, no more stripped, twisted or broken bleed nipples making grown men cry
:crying2:>:)>:)
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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So then the manufacturer of callipers makes no money..
Not only do you like spending money, now you are trying to close businesses ..
You are a bad man,>:)
 

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Just noticed something. On the first picture it appears that the pad has worn so thin that it is making a bolt for freedom in the gap between the caliper and disk.
When this happens it is not nice.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Its to stop the chance of cross threading DD or so an Engineer told me, do I believe him,. Of course I do ,0:)
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Its to stop the chance of cross threading DD or so an Engineer told me, do I believe him,. Of course I do ,0:)
Dinna want to believe anything an Engineer tells you.
Especially if he has a degree >:)

Now being an 'umble engineer myself, wiv some experience of threads, it's a lot easier to cross thread a fine skinny thread then a 'ckin coarse one!
 
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