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1.5 Dci not starting.

11K views 70 replies 6 participants last post by  niloc5 
#1 ·
Hi, i have a Kangoo 1.5Dci 2003 van. Its been starting fine with no issues. Then on morning i try to start it nothing but then i realised i didnt wait for the glow light. So next try i wait for the glow light and notice the light doesnt come on. So i try again and shes not having it and i sense the battery lacking in power. so i charge the battery fullly and checked the crank position sensor while waiting.The Dash lights up normally with the exception of the glow light. Ive tried to read the codes but although my 2003 van has an OBD port the torque app i am using says cant connect to ECU. Any thoughts on these two Issues. Colin.
 
#2 ·
Update, with reference to the sticky thread re 1.5 Dci not starting my finding are... Battery voltage 12.78 but i do have jump leads ready to assist an attempted start. Turn ignition key and still no glow light. The resistance of the glow plugs are all the same reading 0.9 ohms bit high but not extreme. what i do get which is really strange is 11.3 Vdc reading from glow plug lead to ground with ignition off and if i turn ignition on the reading is the same. The coolant sensor i checked it to find no continuety and no ohms reading Not sure if that means its ok or not. The car is fitted with a diagnostics port but cant read its says cant connect to ECU.I have read that snot all cars of my year were fitted with diagnostics. I convinced myself that the Glow Plug Relay was the problem, fitted a new one and no difference.Also does anyone have a wiring diagram for the cold start [ glow ] circuit. Colin.
 
#3 ·
Forget the glow plugs.... the normal fail is to open circuit so that you are measuring a resistance indicates they are okay.
The 11.3v to ground is probably the result of the "relay" (actually an electronic controller) self checking the plugs with a very low current voltage feed...it's confused many people.

Of more interest is the coolant sensor readings...or lack of them.
I'd be swapping that out.
Remove the coolant tank cap, cover the hole with plastic (from a bag) and put the cap back on to seal the system.... then when you remove the sensor, very little coolant will come out.

The coolant temp sensor sends information to the ECU so things like glow plugs, mixture and injection timing are adjusted to suit the engine temperature. If your CTS has failed, engine may be trying to start on hot settings.

Will it fire with a squirt of Easy Start?
 
#4 ·
I will get a new one and try that. If ive got to remove it is it even worth going though the testing mentioned in the manual measuing resitance at various temps or do you think its fairly concusive the sensor is knackered. The manual says when testing for ohms i should get an infininate resistance at room temp, i did the test outside but its a warm sunny day lol here. Thanks, Colin.
 
#6 ·
It's a cheap part.
I don't usually recommend playing parts darts but you seem to have evidence that it is dead.

Pick up some easy start when you get the sensor.
With a diesel, the two basics for it to fire is fuel and compression.
There are many things that control the fuel and some that may affect compression.
Easy start will, if nothing else, show which of the two items is missing.
 
#7 ·
Hi, so a bit of an update. Ive fitted the new Coolant temp sensor and topped up the coolant. Turned the ingnition on and still no Glow light. Tried to start it anyway and wouldnt.
Using Easy start, the engine will fire but not run, Tried squeezing the fuel bulb but still the same.
When the ignition key is turned the stop sign and the center red light are on and static but no Glow light.
Prior to this fault the van has been problem free and starting first time and running great. one day fine next nothing.
Any thoughts, Colin.
 
#8 ·
Try to start it first (ignore glow plugs)
Get someone to turn the key while you spray short bursts of easy start, and at the same time pump the primer bulb..
If you have emptied the system down it can take a fair bit of cranking to get it up and running on its own volition
 
#10 ·
Ok so ive tried that and no joy. Ive manage to get the engine to sustain By injecting easy start continuesly.
Is see theres anougher post of a Dci not starting.
The Fact im not getting the glow plug light appears to be the cause.But without a wiring diagram im scuppered.
How can i tell if the immobiliser on off.
Does anyone have a link other than Haynes for a manual i could buy that shows the engine wiring diagrams.
 
#12 ·
I have mentioned this in the past, What Should i be seeing when i insert the key whats the sequence of lights.
I have 2 x keys 1 x original and 1 x aftermarket. Both worked fine no problems.
Is the immobiliser still armed, is this why im not getting the Glow light.?.
 
#14 ·
Usually if the immobiliser is not going off the engine wont turn over on the starter,
I am wondering if it could be a relay sticking, one of the 3 identical ones in the box
near the battery, maybe open the top and give them a little push to make sure they
are seated and a very light tap with something.
 
#15 ·
Usually if the immobiliser is not going off the engine wont turn over on the starter
They will, they just won't fire.
Niloc.
As per the other thread, your immobiliser light should be flashing when you unlock the vehicle, go solid red when you put the key in/turn it then go off.
Does it?

The Stop sign is self explanatory but centre red light?
I'm not familiar with the Kangoo dash so a piccie may help.
If that is the immobiliser light, does it go out or slow flash when you switch off/lock the car and then flash when you unlock?
Give a few minutes between locking and unlocking for the system to shut down fully.
 
#18 ·
Update, so with a locked van i can see a slow flashing imobiliser.
Using the original key with central locking button i press the button and see the hazard indicators flash once on the dash and at the same time i hear the doors unlock i open the door. ( i manually opened the door using the key as the motor to unlock is knackered but has never affected anything ).
as suggested i dont hurry to start the van.
I insert the key and turn to position 2, lights on dash are the usual bottom row Batt, oil, handbrake. No Glow light and top Row, Stop and the immobiliser light is still on but static.
At this point i didnt even try to start it as its still the same as all other attempts.
This is why originally i posted in the electrical section thinking this is an electrical fault and meantioned my dash lights.
Thanks for your help people i do appreciate it, Colin.
182818
Vehicle Car Odometer Auto part Measuring instrument
Vehicle Car Odometer Auto part Measuring instrument
Vehicle Car Odometer Auto part Measuring instrument
 
#19 ·
So immo is not allowing start conditions..
Can you post a picture of your Under Bonnet Fuse box,
With cover removed, and the side of the fuse box where the relays fit, a picture of this also.
 
#23 ·
In essence,if the immo lamp does not go out after four or five seconds of the key being in position 2 then the immo remains armed and the injection pump is shut off, it will never start, there are various ways that the key can be programmed what i did was:
1. Unlock the car get in and shut the door
2. press the locking switch near the gear stick and hold it down ( you should here lock and unlock)
3. keep holding it and put the key in the ignition
4. press the unlock button on the key ( still holding the gear stick button) and twist the key to position 2 ( very fiddly to do but a bit of practice and it is possible)
5. you should hear a beep from somewhere behind the dash
6. job done
7 turn it off
8 lock and unlock the car from the key fob
9 ign on and after 5 seconds the immo lamp should go out

Hope it helps
Phil
 
#29 ·
ok changed partitions can see them ok now,
Can you post a picture of your Interior fuse box, also a picture of your Oval plate.
Just want to make sure I get the correct wiring diagram up.
Tomorrow after diner I will be back on so dont worry if you cannot do it tonight
 
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