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air box, air feed pipe going to the turbo, air feed from turbo to EGR, EGR hot pipe, EGR its self, all its ascociated sensors. then a clamp holding down coolant hoses, then another clamp holding a load of earths on held in by 2 bolts, then finally the two long bolts holding the starter in and the starter wires. the only sensors that i had to take out where the ones ascociated with all the low pressure air intake pipes. all of which i put back again and cleaned up. could try that earth bracket thing but i made sure i cleaned up the contact area where one of the wires earths onto it.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Re check your earth wires, you will need an ohms meter, disconnect the earths off the bracket, take positive lead off your battery, with your ohms meter, one probe on negative terminal of the battery, with negative terminal still on, other end on each connector/earth.
You should have no resistance , or less than 0.1 ohms, any above this figure check.
 

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My Renault scenic has come up with a p0335 error code. After ringing around garages nobody can give me a straight answer on price of repair. Can anybody help please car will start but won't rev over 2000 revs.
 

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can anyone help i have a 05 1.5dci scenic and have been advised to change the diesel pump my question is do the codes need to match up or can i replace with any for a 1.5 dci
thanks sam
 

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I recently changed all the injectors on my Megane Mk II 1.5 dci; the codes were changed and 2, 3 & 4 showed the new codes, but 1, despite numerous attempts to change it keeps showing the original code for the removed injector and won't accept the new code. I have checked the numbers several times and they are correctly entered, the injector is the correct one for the vehicle and is the same type and series as the one removed. The engine does start after a few pushes of the starter button ,but it idles at 1100 revs and stays there unless you press the brake. I have tried replacing the potentiometer but this has made no difference; The fault diagnostic are two. codes for Injectors and a short on the Heater/air cooler sensor. any ideas?
 

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Dear Renault experts...

I wonder if anyone can shed light on my 2004 (Mk2 ph3) Clio 1.5dCi 80 starting problem...

Namely, it won't. I bought the car as a non-runner, but have had experience with the K9K in a Megane, so thought logic and the workshop manuals would get me through. I also have a CLIP system to interrogate the computers.

I say the car won't start - it did *once* and idled very nicely. I thought I'd cracked it but after 0.2 miles of very gentle driving, had some increasing diesel knock until the car stalled and has not re-started since. The car will run (for a couple of seconds) after a squirt of Easy Start, and if short bursts of ES are squirted near the intake every second, the engine runs fine (using the ES as fuel) - as soon as you stop squirting, the engine stops.

I have verified the basics:
Battery good (been on a starter/charger anyway so plenty of juice) - cranking rpm over 200/min
Timing correct (checked with a screwdriver in no1 glow plug hole - bell housing end - for TDC) all the timing belt marks line up, with crank at 12 o'clock, cam and fuel pump marks align with the white marks on the cam belt
Intake has a new air filter and no obstructions
EGR is brand new
Intake area and pipe are cleaned
Has 4 reconditioned injectors (from PF Jones - a reputable refurber) and coded into the computer
New Delphi fuel filter (no metal particles in the old one)
There is diesel in the tank
TDC and cam position sensors new OEM
Wiring looks physically good and no multiplex errors from the computer
Main multiconnectors removed from ECU and re-plugged in (no chafing on cover)
All connectors cleaned, electrical contact cleaner and firmly re-connected
Compression checked, good and consistent (around 21-23bar in all cylinders on cranking)
Immobiliser NOT active (key recognised, light goes out, cranks OK - CLIP agrees)
New Delphi IMV
New Delphi rail pressure sensor
Pumping the priming bulb swishes fuel from the tank, to filter then back down the return pipe

On cranking (with an injector connected, but outside the engine in the engine bay (yes I did stand well back, goggles etc.) there is NO injection happening - no fuel comes from the nozzle


I have one code from CLIP: DF137 rail pressure regulation function 1.DEF (=pressure < minimum)

However, on cranking I can see parameter PR216 rail pressure setting 448 bar, and parameter PR217 rail pressure, where I can get up to 1500 bar.

Not having the logic diagram for the Delphi injection system, I don't know why the computer is giving me a level 2 error (STOP and the glow plug light illuminated) with DF137 low rail pressure, when the sensor says 1500 bar which should be more than enough!! Clearly the injection computer isn't happy with something and is inhibiting starting.

These diesels are supposed to be simple - air in...compression...squirt fuel...exhaust! So why won't this b*stard start?! The only component I haven't changed is the high pressure fuel pump, but with a rail pressure of 1500 bar surely it can't be that? But then why is the computer saying pressure below minimum? I suppose there *could* be a problem between the LP and HP part of the HP pump internally. Does anyone know what their rail pressure is on cranking? Anyone else had this scenario? I am determined to beat this car into submission!

Thanks for reading guys and girls...

Fletch
 

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Can I just remind everyone if the “Clip” is indeed CanClip then any discussion of this will not be tolerated unless of course you can prove legitimate ownership of it.

Thanks
Stu
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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How long are you spraying easy start for..
It wont be a few squirts and away you go, could take at least half a can..
Keep it running with Easystart, so the injectors start to open...

Spray into the turbo mouth,

ignore Red Herrings like fuel rail pressure, you wont have enough pressure for The ECM to interpret it..


You have managed to get the car to accept all codes for injectors, Number 1 being closest to the Gearbox,, just asking...

Have you checked the codes now stored in the ECM matches the codes on the Injectors..
issue= Not getting any Reading this AAAAAA ..


Old engines did start easier, but with modern diesels, its a 1/3rd of the diesel being sprayed in...

Have you done a full global scan, got any faults in anything along the Multiplex line, stopping start,,
 

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Thanks for your reply. I***8217;ve been through 1 ½ cans of easystart during the troubleshooting :( All injectors are coded in, and the codes verified. Even tried bump starting it - all no-go. By all accounts it should start, but there is clearly no fuel getting injected.

Connections to the injectors are good (I get a code if they are disconnected, which resolves when plugged back in.

No errors on any other modules, all fuses removed, checked, cleaned and replaced. All relays removed, tested and reinstalled.

***55357;***56877;***55357;***56877;

Regards,
Fletch
 

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Can you confirm what the actual rail pressure you are measuring when cranking is?
Normally injectors should fire when above about 200bar
If you are seeing that on cranking, I would say something else is blocking it, not fuel.
 

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Rail pressure rises rapidly to well over 600 bar in 2 seconds of cranking, and after about 5 seconds of cranking it is over 1000 bar.

The code I get is DF137 (code present, which triggers the ***8220;stop***8221; and flashing glow plug light) 1.DEF. That is what is inhibiting the injection, but I don***8217;t understand *why* that code is coming up when the pressure seems OK.

I need to understand which sensors are being read by the injection computer that are bringing this up, as it isn***8217;t the rail pressure sensor as I have replaced that, and it***8217;s giving identical numbers to the old one.


Regards,
Fletch
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Pull the IMV plug off, see if fuel will now come through your injectors.
My own experience on these engines is ALWAYS rocker box cover off, and check timing off cam lobes,,
Are you sure about 200 rpm being in tolerance for starting parameters to be met..
Could be, as no info to hand to verify. assuming you have as you seem happy with it
What is your Engine code, or Vehicle type code..
Deffo no issues with fuel from tank, to pump..
Have on many occasions bypassed fuel filter housings. and had a can of fuel under the bonnet with a primer going from this to the pump..
Just so I can say for certain its the high pressure side...
 

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The lady selling it didn***8217;t know why it wouldn***8217;t start. Not much investigation done by her judging by the number of rusted nuts that wouldn***8217;t have been if someone had been fiddling. The car passed its MOT in September 2017 (bought in November 2017 - haven***8217;t had much time to tinker).

Pulling off the IMV plug of course generates a level 2 ***8220;STOP***8221; error immediately, so I would be surprised if the engine would start in this condition even if it was ok. However cranking like that didn***8217;t allow it to start.

Connecting a clear pipe with a supply of diesel direct to the fuel pump input didn***8217;t allow it to start either, so no blockage in the (brand new, Delphi brand) fuel filter or one- way in-line check valve.

Car is a BB08 Clio II. I believe the engine is a K9K 702 but the plate is so rusty and crud- covered it***8217;s hard to read. Anyway it***8217;s the 80hp version without the variable geometry turbo.

At the end of the day I have a level 2 error ***8220;STOP***8221; after 2-3 seconds cranking (with a battery starter booster attached, so spins over quickly) with DF137 rail pressure regulation function error 1.DEF pressure < minimum. Air can get in and out of the engine. Timing is OK. Cam and crank sensors are new and there are no coherence faults. Just no fuel.

Does anyone have experience of this situation and can explain why I have a rail pressure reading (if I keep cranking) of over 1000 bar but the above computer error.

Next step I guess would be to swap out the HP fuel pump, but I hate swapping parts if I don***8217;t understand *why*.

Bw
Fletch
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Think you have missed what we are saying..
With the Metering valve disconnected, on cranking you should have fuel to do a leak of check, so on that same understanding you should have fuel coming from the injection pump.. Not expecting it to start..
You WILL not get a cam to crank coherence on a non running 1.5 dci engine as the cam sensor runs/picks up off the fuel injection pump..
Why its called a cam sensor on the 1.5 is beyond me as its a Vehicle speed sensor for the ECU to work out how much fuel to pump into the fuel rail..

Faster the engine more fuel..

Would still take that rocker cover off and check... OR HAVE you done this..
It is a K9K702..

What other fault codes were there

Another question, is it diesel in the tank???
 

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Yep it***8217;s diesel that***8217;s in it.

I checked the timing from scratch as it was not set correctly (the aux pulley has a lip on the back which had been partly filed ?slipped) it looked like timing was perhaps 20deg out. So I wouldn***8217;t have trusted the cam position anyway. I set the crank roughly at tdc on cylinder 1 (gearbox end) using the screwdriver in the glow plug hole. This corresponded with the keying (that isn***8217;t used on the Clio) on the crank being at 12 o clock, as it should be. Then using the Renault crank setting pin in the front of the engine, set the crank against it. Using a new timing belt with the appropriate markings for crank, cam and pump fitted this, with the cam setting pin located as per workshop manual instructions. All marks aligned properly (including those on the fuel pump). Tensioned appropriately. New aux pulley. New crank bolt. Torqued as per instructions. Turned over by hand x2 revs to verify. Then (worrying about the previous sloppy setting) did a compression test - all ok. The engine also runs fine on easystart (providing you keep giving a bolus squirt every half second or so). I thought this would demonstrate a coherence issue if there was one, as the engine is ***8220;running***8221;.

Anyhoo, I think the timing is fine.

There are no other errors at all. Clear the DF137, verify it has erased, re-crank and it pops back up again. The computer really really thinks there is a fuel pressure issue. How quickly should the pressure rise on cranking, before starting? Maybe mine is rising too slowly or there***8217;s an internal LP-HP issue in the pump?

Thanks everyone for your suggestions...

Bw
Fletch
 

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**DF137 FIXED**

Hi all,
I have had success with my Clio and thought I would share.

Having eliminated everything else, I sent my fuel pump to PF Jones for a sitrep/refurb. I had a call saying it was full of metal filings!

This is despite the pump being able to generate enough pressure - if you go through the Renault diagnostics, you***8217;re supposed to be able to pull off the IMV plug and the electrical connectors to the injectors and crank the engine, watching the rail pressure. Mine passed the 1050bar mark easily.

There were no filings on the IMV mesh filter and no filings in the fuel filter.

Having gotten a replacement fuel pump that wasn***8217;t starting to break up, I cleaned the rail out, lines etc. and took out one of my recently refurbed injectors.

Opening it up (you will need a bench vice and a good 15mm ring spanner) carefully in as-close-to-surgical-cleanliness as possible, there was no blockage of the injector body. However the needle was sticky, but injector holes patent. Cleaned with carb cleaner and blasted out with an air line. Then had a look at the little internal valve (the thing that looks like a telephone dial). It should almost drop out when tapped, but mine was seized solid. I pushed it out from behind, carefully cleaned (all moved nicely) and put the injector back together.

All 4 were exactly the same - the little internal valve was seized.

So from what I can gather, DF137 in my case related to the rail pressure regulation via bleed-off from the injectors, NOT the IMV.

If you have replaced your injectors and your pump is screwed, the pump debris will damage your new injectors in MINUTES as there is no filter between the HP output of the pump and the injector inlet.

THERE MAY BE NO OUTWARD SIGNS THAT YOUR PUMP IS BREAKING UP

So if you***8217;re getting this code, have your pump inspected by somebody reputable. If you mark your timing belt position and use a cam locking pin, you can release the tension and after removing the central fuel pump sprocket nut, tap-tap the pump drive shaft and it will come away from its sprocket.

Tip: Don***8217;t be tempted to pry at the edge of the sprocket with a screwdriver or it will chip - it***8217;s very brittle!

Hope that helps someone. DF137 = injector internal valve gummed up - check for sources of contamination. First stop: pump.

BW
Fletch
 

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Hi. friends!
Help me please. The car is 1.5dci K9K710 82hp. Delphi. 2002
Bad warm start after 10 minutes stand.
Changed:
Fuel, air filters.
Camshaft Sensor
Temperature sensor together with a thermostat
4 nozzles (not poured, checked)
pump high-pressure pump, with a regulator and a fuel temperature sensor.
starter
Battery bought a year ago
The timing is set clearly according to the marks, the oscilloscope of the KV and RV sensor is attached.

When you twist the starter, the engine shakes violently. Fuel supply occurs. At the same time, the pressure in the rail is not increased above 100 bar. (as well as the previous fuel system, one in one)
If instead of a fuel temperature sensor to put a resistor of 3kOhm (18.5 degrees) the car is started from the floor of a turn. Pressure in this case quietly jumps up to 200 bar. I enclose logs with a sensor and a resistor.
I tried to change the angle of fuel supply programmno both in large and smaller ...
I tried to increase the fuel supply.
I do not know what to do ....
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Going to ask, What about the crank sensor.. Not making at this time, any sense of what you really mean, sorry if that does not come over well
Have opened the file, what do the numbers relate to in excel..
Can you tell us what are KV, and RV.
Apart from starting, and going on this pump is a pump that must be set on timing and correct, as in 19 teeth between cam to pump marking..
Your post is slightly ambiguous , as only info you have really given is bad starting After 10 minutes
So
Does it start off the key first thing in the morning when cold?
Do you lose power at any time while driving?
Is it good, bad on fuel?
Do you get any management lights on, especially when giving it some?
Any misfiring occurring or?
 
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