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Hey guys,

The issue I have is getting to be pretty frustrating and pertains to a 2003 Renault Trafic sl27 dCi100. My local independent garage has had it in but are having difficulties getting to the bottom of the problem. It had issues in the past with the Turbo Boost pressure switch, which at the time after reading everything related to the EGR/Intercooler/Turbo blowing problems on these forums I feared the worst. Its high mileage at 163k miles and the latest issue is thus:

When accelerating, most noticably in gears 3-6 (doesnt seem very apparant at all when pulling away, or in 2nd) and when it seems to be under load; ie. when driving up a long slow hill, or driving on a motorway which is on an upwards incline, it seems to have problems when going through the 2400rpm to 3100rpm range. Before and after that dont seem to be a problem. The problem is that it will accelerate, then not, which makes it feel like you have put your foot on the brake. Then accelerate again. Then not. It does this about 6 or 7 times until it reaches about 3100rpm then will accelerate from then in a linear way.

The only fault the ECU was reporting was glow plugs .. the garage replaced 3, but the 4th one has broken in place. (Is there any procedure for removing this without removing the head? Maybe with compressed air or something?) An interesting thing is, that ever since I bought the vehicle second hand, it has only had a max rpm of 3600rpm, but since replacing 3 of the 4 glow plugs, it now accelerates to 4000 rpm. So the issue they fixed has helped the vehicle, but has not helped to stop the problem it was in for. It must have been in a reduced operating mode since the day I bought it.

Does anyone have any idea what this might be? There is a slight rpm related whine from the engine, but my garage say its from the alternator not the turbo. its obviously frustrating not being able to find the route of the problem. After reading a lot of posts on here, I would be suspect of the EGR valve or the turbo. (But wouldn't turbo failiure be more obvious? ie, not work at all) Would a Renault Dealer have any better way of troubleshooting with any test equipment or would that be money spent getting nowhere too?

I have just driven 600 miles in the last few days, the van works, but isnt quite right. Could this be a faulty EGR valve heading towards Intercooler failiure and the inevitable turbo self destruct?

Any thoughts on the matter would be greatly appreciated,

Thanks in advance,

Simon Tucker
 

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This sounds very similar to a problem we had on a Vauxhall Movano a few weeks ago.The Movano is a rebadged Renault Traffic fitted with the same dCi engine.

The customer brought it to us with a performance problem(it was gutless...:rolleyes:),and after some investigation we found that the turbo boost solenoid was fubar'd,which is a very common complaint apparently.We replaced this and all was well,but when we did the original code read it threw up a glow plug code too.We removed and checked three of them,but the fourth was seized into the head and wouldn't come out.The only way to get it out is to remove the cylinder head as the heater tip is seized into it's location hole.

The glow plugs are only used for cold starting,so I doubt that changing the last one on yours will cure your problem.In fact,common rail diesels very rarely use the glow plugs and will start without them in anything but the coldest of temperatures.A glow plug can be faulty for months on end and the owner won't realise it,but the ECU stores the code anyway.It's more likely to be an air flow meter fault or an EGR fault.

EGR faults usually involve the engine emitting clouds of black smoke under heavy acceleration,so if you haven't got this problem,then the EGR should be OK.....Air flow meters are notoriously difficult to diagnose,but I doubt very much that Renault will have any more idea about what they're doing than a decent independant with the right testing equipment.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi lagtdi,

Thanks for your response. Were you thinking of the Vivaro? The Movano is a rebadged Master.

When the garage removed the glowplugs, they said they were in a terrible state and wouldnt have been working for ages. Like you say, the van has always started absolutely fine without them working. The garage also said that they werent used much in engines like this .. but they werent sure if the glowplugs were creating the performance issue but conlcuded it was a good place to start as there is no harm in replacing faulty glow plugs. They also proposed trying to "trick" the ECU into thinking all 4 glow plugs were working by plugging the lead for the 4th one to a working glowplug placed somewhere in the engine compartment (just for testing purposes).

I did suggest to them that I thought the glow plugs were not the cause of this issue, as if they had obviously not been working for a long time, it couldnt be related as the performance issue has only been in the last couple of months. Does it sound right that if the ECU detected that the glow plugs were not working that it would have limiter the max engine rpm to 3600?

Before the Turbo Boost sensor was replaced, the engine would not rev beyond 2000rpm, and was having a hell of a time.

I have not noticed any clouds of black smoke under acceleration, so would it be safe to assume that the next best place for the garage to look would be the air flow meter? I have read that some people have disconnected it as a toubleshooting procedure and the performance problems have temporarily gone away - is this something that is worth trying in order to try and isolate the problem? I remember at the time the Turbo Boost sensor was replaced that the ECU at that time reported faults with the air flow meter. I dont think they changed it, but it has not been reported as a fault since.

Thanks for your help,

Simon
 

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Yep,Vivaro it was.:eek:

I would definately look at the readings from the air flow meter next.

Another thing that could cause a similar fault is a blocked particle filter in the exhaust system.See if there is a decent amount of pressure coming out of the tailpipe when the engine is revved.

I would also remove and clean the EGR valve as these can get clogged.Also,check the turbo boost pressure sensor(small unit next to the boost valve with one small hose running to it).

The trouble with disconnecting the air flow meter and driving it is that the ECU will cut most of the other sensors out of the loop too,so it could look like the airflow meter is at fault when really the problem is elsewhere.If the garage you take it to has a decent scanner,get them to drive the van whilst checking the live data from the ECU about the readings being given by the air flow meter.Some scanners will be able to show up faults,others won't.
 

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Hi
Any joy with this yet?
2002 trafic, same prob as you started with a stutter between 2500-3000 revs ranault changed fuel filter when i got it back no power on acceleration til 3000 revs, have done all elect tests replaced power boost sensor, cleaned egr valve, stll no luck, new guy has tested fuel pressue and air flow and now says he thinks it may be fuel pump or turbo or both if this keeps up i'll have a new engine.:crazy:
 

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update on above problem - air flow meter was the cause, did not show up on diagnostics, but i have had it replaced and now my van works fine and at £102.00 for the part and 5 mins fitting by an independent machanic it saved me £1700.00 worth of parts that renault waned to do!!
 

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hi, the heater plugs dont work on jus pre heating they also work on post heating on this system, iunfortunatly you are going to have to have the head off and the heater element knocked out from the swirl chamber side, an easy way to check the egr vave is to remove the air pipe to the air chamber and start the engine dont put your hand to close to the air camber but a bit close and c if you are getting any hot exhaust fumes passing out, if thats ok get an assistant to rev the engine you should feel heat from thechamber if the egr is ok! my suspisions lay towords a leaking intercooler or the air flow meter both are very very common faults! hope this helps!
 

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Hi,
Renault trafic 1.9dci Poor acceleration
after 2500rpm goin fine.
Already change Turbo, pressure sensor, MAF, still same.
Thanks for help.
 

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Hi,
Renault trafic 1.9dci Poor acceleration
after 2500rpm goin fine.
Already change Turbo, pressure sensor, MAF, still same.
Thanks for help.
I had and issue like that and changed the accelerator pedal sensor! Sorted, picked up all the bottom end power.
 

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Hi all
i have a 17 model trafic and have the identical problem.sluggish pick up under about 2500 rpm and thru the gears feels like real real bad turbo lag .. on cruise or in manual in 5th if revs went under 2000 it kicks off the service light saying check injectors check cruise check limiter and i lose cruise control.. sometimes i even have to go back to 1st to get up a hill and have been cooking my clutch trying to reverse up hill ...DPF has been checked and cleaned... turbos replaced and EGR valves have also been replaced as well as boost pressure sensor yet the prob remains.. lucky its still under warranty !! no one seems to know why this is going on... it spent 7-8 weeks at service centre ..had it back at service the other day and mech took for a drive while hooked up to comp it was giving out 2 diif reading of 1 being boost pressure cant remember the other ...driving everyone insane
 

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That's mental for a 2017....mines an old 2003. We could all guess for hours. I would find an independent auto electrical diagnostics specialist in your town with good reviews. Probably 1 or 2 hrs of diag and will know what's up. Money well spent.
 

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The quick tests. Try flicking the brake pedal when it acts up. Same with clutch. Also feather the throttle pedal and feel if it responds to input. Mine had something similar but just because symptoms are similar doesn't mean cause is the same.

I replaced accelerator pedal sensor assembly 75£ 10min job. And also the MAF sensor. Always use OEM sensors otherwise you can fall down the "parts been replaced already" must be somthing else! Seen it.
 

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p
The quick tests. Try flicking the brake pedal when it acts up. Same with clutch. Also feather the throttle pedal and feel if it responds to input. Mine had something similar but just because symptoms are similar doesn't mean cause is the same.

I replaced accelerator pedal sensor assembly 75£ 10min job. And also the MAF sensor. Always use OEM sensors otherwise you can fall down the "parts been replaced already" must be somthing else! Seen it.
The quick tests. Try flicking the brake pedal when it acts up. Same with clutch. Also feather the throttle pedal and feel if it responds to input. Mine had something similar but just because symptoms are similar doesn't mean cause is the same.

I replaced accelerator pedal sensor assembly 75£ 10min job. And also the MAF sensor. Always use OEM sensors otherwise you can fall down the "parts been replaced already" must be somthing else! Seen it.
problem solved...turned out to be a turbo solenoid..runs like a bullet now
 
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