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Hi, can anyone help. I have a 1987 Trafic camper. 1721cc with a bad carburettor. I have sent the unit away for reconditioning but it is said to be
beyond servicing with out a donar carb unit. I have been struggling to find a carburettor(solex 35 SEIA 870)
to replace or repair the old one. Does anyone know where I might be able to pick up a replacement unit or if an alturnative unit for the 1721cc motor was produced, maybe by Weber or similar. any info on this carburettor would be helpful.
Cheers Ben.
 

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Hi, fast road cars ltd (tel.01495 237456) do a weber conversion kit that bolts straight on..model no.34 ich..comes with everything you need plus choke cable,filter and fuel line.cost is £170..ive got one on my trafic 1647cc..goes like a rocket now!!! Dont get a new solex..theyre £250 plus and not a patch on the weber..hope this helps,jim.
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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Hi, fast road cars ltd (tel.01495 237456) do a weber conversion kit that bolts straight on..model no.34 ich..

That's great information Jim. I'm looking at a carb overhaul or conversion myself right now as I've a 1.7 engine too. Solex's are :hurl: Hope Xanmac is sorted out now as he posted his question over 2 years ago :rolleyes: :d
 

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La sola lupo
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The 1.7 Renault 9's came with a weber the code on it was 32 DRT (twin barrel Carb)
The 1.4 TSE also had a similar carb but the jetting was differant it was 32DRTM

EDIT:
Renoir, you do realise we just replied to a 2 year old thread :surrender
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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That's more good info for me PP :d I did say to the 2nd poster this thread is a wee bit old :eek:

My carb is in the chain of components to be investigated......engine has to be cranked 8 key turns before it fires up (the fuel filter drains empty overnight and I don't think the float chamber hold enough fuel in reserve for starting), the idling is very rough on choke / cold engine, and on a run it cuts-out at every junction (if you catch it n time you can blip the throttle but engine then runs very lumpy from then on).

I'm flipping a coin (in my head) to decide whether to buy a diy overhaul kit or to send it away to a 'carb doctor'. I've done a simple Zenith before bit this one has more linkages & butterflys to be set up to correct adjustments.

I've never heard a bad thing said about Webers to a conversion may be another alternative, but I don't think its affordable just now. :confused::cool:
 

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La sola lupo
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My bad, i didnt notice untill after i posted :forehead:

The weber's on the old 9's had very little trouble, i only ever found one that became very heavy on petrol, in the end i found out the car got water in the tank(and carb) which froze in winter and cracked a fuel line and something on the inside of the carb.

Strange thing is we never had renault here with twin barrel solex carbs.
 

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hi jim

I've got the A1M 1647cc engine on my Trafic 1 and the carburettor is the SOLEX 35 SEIA 808. cleaned it but still doesn't work right when driving!

worst is between 40 and 60 km/h in 4th gear and accelerating, cars moves to and fro and shakes and trembles! if I pull the choke voila, everything is fine so conclusion is there isn't enough gasoline there!

now the question, what exactly did you buy from the guy on ebay? what exact model of WEBER 34 ICH?

does it fit perfectly on the intake manifold? are there any drawbacks to using this Weber?

what happens to the 2 hoses that supply the base of the SOLEX with hot water?

should the acceleration cable linkage be modified or will it fit the WEBER perfectly?

etc.


many many thanks!
marcus






Hi, fast road cars ltd (tel.01495 237456) do a weber conversion kit that bolts straight on..model no.34 ich..comes with everything you need plus choke cable,filter and fuel line.cost is £170..ive got one on my trafic 1647cc..goes like a rocket now!!! Dont get a new solex..theyre £250 plus and not a patch on the weber..hope this helps,jim.
 

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Hi I am a new member just bought a ren traffic camper 1988 I have the common carburettor fault I have stripped it down now four times and it is still driving like a donkey it starts on the button ticks over like a dream but to drive it at say 20/30 mph is lumpy as hell I think a new or maybe refurb carb any body out there can help please I have done all the other stuff new cap rota plugs But I'm sure it's carb if the choke is pulled out a bit its a little bit better
 

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Hi I am a new member just bought a ren traffic camper 1988 I have the common carburettor fault ..
Hi Michael and welcome to the forum :d Yes all us Camper and Trafic van owners know about the carbs be it Solex or Zenith. We are hoping for a live road test report on a new carb (Weber??) from another new member Boonaby

http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/showthread.php?t=421818

Which carb have you got? Mine was a temperamental runner too when I bought it but over time I have checked and replaced or adjusted the most important items and the van is running much better these days. Its not good to run the engine on part choke as it caused premature bore wear, but yes at times running on part choke did cure the rough phases.

These several threads on this forum that are worth reading through although that involves many pages, often the topics go off topic so its worth reading anything to do with campervans as a lot of good info is hidden within.:d

Besides the carb have you done any other adjustments? Hopefully the forum members will point you in the right direction.
 
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...I have stripped it down now four times and it is still driving like a donkey it starts on the button ticks over like a dream but to drive it at say 20/30 mph is lumpy as hell ...
I've just re-read your post ..... guessing you've not set a butterfly adjustment properly or there's a blocked or wrong size jet inside the carb. Sounds like the carb isn't moving from the slow running circuit to the 'normal' engine circuit properly. What manual or guide did you follow in stripping down the carb?
 
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They're all a bit like that, as far as I can tell. They are very weak on the progression circuit, but the only way you can adjust it is with a bigger idle jet which messes up the idle. It's a Solex thing - I've had a Renault 6, Estafette, Citroen 2CV and the Trafic and tried to tune a VW T2 which all exhibited the problem to varying degrees.

Make sure the progression holes are clear - look just above the edge of the butterfly when it's closed - the lowest hole in line with the idle mixture screw is idle, the hole or holes above (can't remember whether there's one or more) is / are progression holes.

There are a few more things which can make it worse:

  1. An air leak. The flange distorts, because it only has two bolts, the four nuts on the bottom of the adaptor to the manifold come loose and the butterfly spindle wears. Put a bit of pipe next to your ear (not in it - you'll need your eardrums again) and listen all around the flanges for hissing. Not much you can do with the spindle though.
  2. Check the size of the idle jet. It was wrong in mine. For mine it should be a 45; seems to be 45 in all of them so yours is probably the same. I bought one from Eric at the carburettor hospital: http://carburettorspecialists.com/
  3. The vacuum advance on the ignition breaks, and makes it much worse. Fold the vacuum pipe between your fingers (to stop air geting in) and pull it off the ignition unit with the engine ticking over. It should slow down or stop - if it doesn't then it's broken. Look at the pipe, if it's not that then it's probably the diaphragm. Good luck getting another one! Mine had this problem too.
  4. There is supposed to be a little jet (1.7mm) in the breather pipe between the inlet elbow on the top of the carb and the bottom of the carb (engine side). Good chance that a previous owner has thought that the pipe is blocked and 'cleaned' it. Block or clamp the pipe and try it then - if it's loads better you can either leave it like that or make a new jet like I did. I though 1.7mm was fussy so I made it 2mm.
I also got a rebuild kit off Eric which didn't make much difference but means it's got nice new gaskets and everything.


Good luck.
 

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I also got a rebuild kit off Eric which didn't make much difference but means it's got nice new gaskets and everything.
Hi Richard. Did that come with a comprehensive instruction sheet? I remember reading somewhere that the butterflys have to set to specific angles with an angle gauge :eek: Many moons ago I overhauled a very simple Zenith and the instructions then were to set the butterflys using a specific diameter of twist drill, but even that method was not particularly satisfactory and some resetting by intuition and listening to the engine was necessary. As the Solex is more complex and sensitive I am reticent to do an overhaul although I would like to do one to be certain the old gaskets have not started leaking air.
 

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Setting by intuition.... :d

Applies to every carb I ever worked on.
Standard settings get you close but the fine tuning is an art form.

The twist drill brings back memories though for the life of me I can't remember what size..... I do know I had one in my setting kit along with feeler gauges and some fine wet and dry for cleaning points. And a length of pipe as a stethoscope :cool:

Can't offer much on Solex carbs except to say I didn't like them, always a pain.

Having to stick a little choke on does sound as though a slow running port is clogged.
I would suspect, given the use of campers with lots of sitting around in off season, that fuel has gelled and closed some holes a little.

If overhauling, once the beasty has diaphragms and the like stripped out, boiling them in a solution of water and lemon juice cleans these residues, about 30% lemon.
Half hour on a medium simmer :d
Rinse well.
Do not tumble dry :eek:
 

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Hi Richard. Did that come with a comprehensive instruction sheet? I remember reading somewhere that the butterflys have to set to specific angles with an angle gauge :eek: Many moons ago I overhauled a very simple Zenith and the instructions then were to set the butterflys using a specific diameter of twist drill, but even that method was not particularly satisfactory and some resetting by intuition and listening to the engine was necessary. As the Solex is more complex and sensitive I am reticent to do an overhaul although I would like to do one to be certain the old gaskets have not started leaking air.
No, just a bag of bits. They needed doing though because some of the gaskets had been torn by a previous bodger and were letting air in, particularly the one between the butterfly housing and the carb body, which is where the idle and progression passages go.

You only need to set the initial opening if you have the constant CO carb, that is the one where the idle speed is adjusted with a volume screw instead of the throttle stop. Otherwise you can just do it by opening the throttle stop a little, setting the idle mixture three turns out and doing it by ear.

As usual set the speed (700 rpm +-25 but I set mine a bit higher to stop the fridge flattening the battery in traffic), turn the mixture screw to get maximum speed, set the speed again etc. But the correct mixture is set at the end by turning the screw inwards until it just slows down. Then take it for a spin and do it all again :)

Yours might have the constant CO carb, because it's later; mine hasn't. If you do then initial opening is set to 0.9mm, so you'll need to find someone with a set of PCB drills, although I suspect that 1mm less a bit would be near enough.

You do have to set it to something before starting (there are three variables not two on these), and for this carb guesswork isn't really good enough, but if the butterfly spindle is worn it will all be for nothing, because air will leak in there, and you might end up closing it a bit to compensate. So yes, feel and intuition, but no harm in starting with the right settings. They're awkward to do at the best of times.
 

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If overhauling, once the beasty has diaphragms and the like stripped out, boiling them in a solution of water and lemon juice cleans these residues, about 30% lemon.
Half hour on a medium simmer :d
Rinse well.
Do not tumble dry :eek:
Excellent tip, thanks. I've never heard that before, I always use a tin of carb cleaner (or brake cleaner) from the pound shop. But I've got a lemon already.
 

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Excellent tip, thanks. I've never heard that before, I always use a tin of carb cleaner (or brake cleaner) from the pound shop. But I've got a lemon already.
A bottle of cheap lemon juice, not the expensive stuff that you want on your pancakes but the cheapo own brands.
Or slice up some lemons, stick them in a cloth bag and boil them up.
The beauty of it is over carb cleaner is that the juice works well to break down gunk and it finds its way into the small ports and jets and the boiling action keeps things moving.

I used to clean mine by dipping them in the Trike tank at work but when I moved on from that job had to find a different way and a mate who was into motorcross told me of this one.
 

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Hi I'd like to thank all the people regarding my faulty carburetor I think now I'm at the end of my tether with it now. Two garages now and two bills that come to £70 I still have the same problem It's got to be a brand new carburetor now does any body know a firm that can supply This has to be the right move now
 

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The top one is the guy I got my parts off - I'd recommend him, but you have to phone because his website's hopelessly out of date and impossible to navigate :)
 

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Hey Michael, just wondering does your engine have an EGR valve on the exhaust manifold? Mine has but I disabled the circuit on the garages recommendation as this was causing surging problems too.
 
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