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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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I'll have a check on my fuse list.

Another item to check before I forget ... inside the distributor cap is the carbon rod still in place and its spring hasn't broken? (inside my distributor all I have is the rotor arm ...... no other gubbings such as advance weights, LowTension wire connection etc. All the advance and retard is managed electronically by the Renix unit).
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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I have checked all connections as best I can but can only find low amp fuses below the steering wheel. Is there a fuse for the ignition unit?
My van does not have any fuses directly to the ignition ..... all it has is a 5A fuse that goes to the instrument panel.
Whether that in turn goes to the ignition I do not know (I havn't found a wiring diagram I can read to identify which wires exit the various multi-block connectors on the instrument panel. It does seem to be the hub of all things electrical). I also have a thick red cable on the reverse of the fuse panel and a little black square thing.

I take it the red ignition lamp lights up and does it go out when the engine is cranked?
 

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Discussion Starter #43
I'll have a check on my fuse list.

Another item to check before I forget ... inside the distributor cap is the carbon rod still in place and its spring hasn't broken? (inside my distributor all I have is the rotor arm ...... no other gubbings such as advance weights, LowTension wire connection etc. All the advance and retard is managed electronically by the Renix unit).
Thanks Renoir. It seems we have the same components; the spring load carbon is all intact. The issue appears to be that I have adequate power going into the Ignition block but nothing coming out of the Coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
My van does not have any fuses directly to the ignition ..... all it has is a 5A fuse that goes to the instrument panel.
Whether that in turn goes to the ignition I do not know (I havn't found a wiring diagram I can read to identify which wires exit the various multi-block connectors on the instrument panel. It does seem to be the hub of all things electrical). I also have a thick red cable on the reverse of the fuse panel and a little black square thing.

I take it the red ignition lamp lights up and does it go out when the engine is cranked?
Yes, everything appears normal other than I don’t have power traveling down the HT from coil to distributor. My multimeter is past it’s best so ohms reading of coil may not be reliable; fortunately Screwfix have a click and collect (at their door) so I will have new meter in the morning.
 

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Tested ohms between the Pins: the reading is all over the place but the most consistent is 1.5
The reading is also very volatile between one Pin and the HT connection point but 4.7 appears most often. I am not confident my meter is reliable because the crocodile clip is broken so it could be reading me. Hopefully I can get my hands on a better one tomorrow but isolating makes life difficult.
if your reading of primary resistance is 1.5 ohms & secondary is 4.7ohms , then coil is knackered ! ( primary should be between 0.4 to 0.8 ohms ) replacements available online from parts in motion - around 20 quid posted
 

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to check if power is going through the electronic unit to the coil - make up a 12V test lamp ,and with coil removed connect test lamp across the 2 brass " prongs " on the electronic unit base ( that the 2 pins of the coil would make contact with ) turn engine over at starter speed - test lamp should flash if electronic unit is good .
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Yes, everything appears normal other than I don’t have power traveling down the HT from coil to distributor. My multimeter is past it’s best so ohms reading of coil may not be reliable; fortunately Screwfix have a click and collect (at their door) so I will have new meter in the morning.
if your reading of primary resistance is 1.5 ohms & secondary is 4.7ohms , then coil is knackered ! ( primary should be between 0.4 to 0.8 ohms ) replacements available online from parts in motion - around 20 quid posted
Thanks again OPB, replacement meter also displays very volatile readings; is that further evidence the coil is faulty? Either way the lower readings are similar to yesterday’s. I have looked at coils on Parts in Motion but they list several for my van with a wide price range. Would you be so kind as to recommend which I should buy; I dont want a cheap one if it means going through this again. eBay has one at £27 including post and can deliver on Monday; not that I am going anywhere!
 

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Bosch F000ZS0115 - just under £20 is the one you need - would still suggest you check electronic unit with test lamp - but make sure you have full charge battery , or take out spark plugs , it needs a fast turn over with starter to light up ( edited so now with c added )
 

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Also test the new one when you get it - should read about 0.8 ohms for primary / about 7.5 ohms for secondary
 

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Discussion Starter #50
Bosh F000ZS0115 - just under £20 is the one you need - would still suggest you check electronic unit with test lamp - but make sure you have full charge battery , or take out spark plugs , it needs a fast turn over with starter to light up
Many thanks.
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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This seller perhaps?


or just type Bosch F000ZS0115 into a search engine .. it'll throw up some other options

ps OPB had mis-spelt Bosh .. missed out the c
 

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Discussion Starter #53
This seller perhaps?


or just type Bosch F000ZS0115 into a search engine .. it'll throw up some other options

ps OPB had mis-spelt Bosh .. missed out the c
Thank you all very much for your kind assistance and advise. I have taken the chance that it is unlikely to have two failures simultaneously and purchased the Bosch Coil from eBay for under £20 inclusive, due Sat-Mon. In the meantime I plan to follow OPBs guidance and test the ignition unit; mainly to see if can do it; we all have a few weeks to get our projects done. Keep well gents and again, thanks.
 

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This seller perhaps?


or just type Bosch F000ZS0115 into a search engine .. it'll throw up some other options

ps OPB had mis-spelt Bosh .. missed out the c
I know i mis-pelt it , tried to edit ,but could not find how , that`s my excuse , and sticking with it ( since posting above have now found the edit button ! )
 

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Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
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I only pointed it out in case Nick wanted to copy and paste the part No into another browser and didn't want him to find 'no result' if he selected the wrong spelling.
I also appreciate your advice in this thread OPB and have made a mental note of it too just in case the need arises for my van at some point.
Many Thanks.
 

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Thanks for your kind words RW , got to try and keep these old vans going I have a 1988 1.7 Trafic camper that i`ve stripped , welded , and virtually rebuilt over the last couple of years . Have encountered many a problem with these old vans , so have tried to acquire as much info as possible (as you know not much info out there) , so more than happy to share any knowledge that i have to help keep these old`uns on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Thanks for your kind words RW , got to try and keep these old vans going I have a 1988 1.7 Trafic camper that i`ve stripped , welded , and virtually rebuilt over the last couple of years . Have encountered many a problem with these old vans , so have tried to acquire as much info as possible (as you know not much info out there) , so more than happy to share any knowledge that i have to help keep these old`uns on the road.
Update: Coil arrived just now and using my new meter reads almost precisely as described by OPB; it seems my old meter needed replacement. Many thanks to you all. I have a 12 volt bulb ready to test the computer but of course the new coil will also preform that function. I will keep you guys posted. Again, thank you.
 
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