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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone Just joined the forum. Our camper van engine has started to loose power at odd times I have changed the fuel filter twice but each time it looses power the spanner light and glow plug light come on, the engine keeps going but seems to loose more power until you need to stop switch off restart and move off again then it does it again in a few miles.
The last time it did this was after a 55 mile outing and then it lost power when i wanted to overtake a car which was going slow ( about 40 ) on a 60mph road the engine just lost power when i put my foot down to overtake so i needed to pull back behind the car and continue with a light pressure on the throttle pedal to keep it going. Its been doing this for about a month now and the fault just came out of the blue after years of regular use, mileage is 150000 the engine runs perfect and no advisories on smoke etc. Anyone else had this problem ? as at present trip to see the grandchild last visit in January is a non starter ( 200 mile round trip ) Any help would be greatly appreciated
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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will it fire up on Easy Start ..?????????
 

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will it fire up on Easy Start ..?????????
Sounds like it fires up okay but plays up when running.
TDC (crank) sensor clean is one but the glow plug light is showing an injection fault.... which leads me more towards fuel issues
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi Everyone It starts first time even in the winter at minus 10 deg c !!! put 2 new filters in the fuel line and I called the RAC out 2 weeks ago because it would not start this turned out to be a intake pipe adrift from the MAF and filter on the turbo !! how this came off is a puzzle anyway it was going fine after the RAC left and the first outing was the one in post of 55 miles and then 'here we go again syndrome' kicked in.
The thing is when i switch off and restart the engine, does this clear the fault somehow as the engine starts no problem I was thinking about fuel starvation but find it a puzzle as to why it just kicks in out of the blue does the fuel pressure increase in the common rail ( been doing a lot of reading on the web! )when you put your foot down ? it's hilly were i live and going up hills when the engine is cold is fine it seems to start when it's well warmed up. Thanks for replies to date
 

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had this issue a few times on dci engines, normally either turns out to be glow plugs or control module, unfortunately on the modern high pressure diesel engines cylinder temperature is incredibly important which means that the glow plugs have to pulse constantly to keep the cylinder temperature optimal for the combustion process (pre and post heating) can you access the error codes and also you could try checking the continuity between the glow plug and the battery negative.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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You need to diagnose it when the fault occurs, not after ignition is switched off..
Only way you will find out what is playing up..

You can check your turbo waste gate is moving freely,

Dont sound fuel related as such, as if you lost fuel pressure, its normally a few cranks to build pressure back up..and you are saying it kicks straight back in once ignition is cycled
Sounds more like a MAP sensor fault, or an overboost fault ,
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well more things to look at thank you all for your input. I will keep on posting updates about this problem to the bitter end! I have ordered a new camshaft sensor and a new MAF sensor to start the ball rolling so I will put one on then go out for a test run and see what happens then the other item and see what happens, i've ordered a fault code reader from Amazon so will take it with me on each test run There is a limit to what i can do regarding this problem I've not got the tools or the skills needed to do some jobs so i may need to go to the garage that I have delt with for over 15 years to fix the problem in the end so i will keep you posted about how things go as it may help others in the future and when it is repaired YES i will not be beaten with this problem I will get it fixed as the vehicle is worth too much to let it sit there and rust away! so keep a look out for further postings.

Am I right in saying fault codes are not kept by the system when you switch the ignition off?
If that is the case what a stupid software design is that !!!!! how does anyone fix things with a system like that!!
I'll check the glow plug wiring as best i can and crawl underneath to check the waste gate how do you check that with the engine not running? any tips for anything will be off help Thanks again
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Can someone tell me how do Renault dealers fix faults if the fault codes are lost when the ignition is switched off ? or do they have the same problem as us that if it's lost they can do nothing?? or is there a secret way of accessing them that we do not know??
 

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Discussion Starter #9
UPDATE just started the engine after a week started with a flick of the starter motor no warnings when I went to the bonnet i could here a sort of hissing scraping sound bit odd not heard it before as i am usually in the cab.
The sound was coming from the HP pump area the fuel pipe from the filter was more air bubbles and froth than fuel the priming bulb was sucked flat !!! it was as hard as rock when you tried to squeeze it the engine was ticking over fine Stopped the engine and the primer bulb was still squashed flat opened the fuel cap went back to the engine the bulb came back into it's normal egg shape left the fuel cap loose started engine again and no bubbles squeezed the primer bulb and it would not go back to it's proper shape ,loads of air bubbles in the fuel line the bulb stayed squashed flat, switched off and the bulb gradually came back to shape with a few light fingers on it ANY IDEAS????
 

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Not specific to a cause of your flat primer but I suspect you may have found why the engine is losing power.
The fuel feed system is not free flowing, fuel flow is being restricted.
Fuel tank breathing system is an obvious suspect.... I'm not sure what would be the system on your vehicle, sorry.
The other is fuel filter, you say you have put new filters in but are they the right ones and are they getting clogged?
The air in the system is likely to be that the suction is overcoming seals at pipe connections so I would ignore at the moment.
 

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Can someone tell me how do Renault dealers fix faults if the fault codes are lost when the ignition is switched off ? or do they have the same problem as us that if it's lost they can do nothing?? or is there a secret way of accessing them that we do not know??
the codes are stored as historical if they are no longer presenting as existing faults, they only get erased when erased by a scanner
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thabk you patricalex1981 for the info on stored codes as my father used to say you learn something everyday and forget two others !!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Morning everyone it's Friday 07 Aug. Just started up the engine running like a swiss watch, next thin big BANG and smell of burning rubber from under the bonnet switched off double quick time and the generator power pump belt has come straight of the pullies O happy days!!! another problem ! Can I drive the van to a garage about 10 miles with no gene running and no power steering or will the CPU that drives everything sense a fault and shut the engine down???? I've not got the tools to do this job, the belts only done 20k or is that too much ? before it needs a change ANY ADVICE WOULD BE GREAT.
 

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I would not run it the ten miles.
If you have the tools, swap it in situ.
But have a good check why it came off.
The burning smell suggests a seized pulley.
Also get the timing cover off and ensure no bits have snuck into timing belt area, it is not unknown for bits to get past the cover and under the timing belt and throw the timing.
Ignore the last if you have a timing chain... I canna remember which your engine has.
 

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Driving it 10 miles without the ribbed belt will do no harm, mine went on Wednesday. but make sure the belt coming off has done no damage mine took out the crank seal. Which is now causing an oil; pressure problem. Changing it yourself only requires a 13mm socket and about 5 mins work assuming it is a 9gu engine.
 

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like stated above driving it ten miles shouldn't do anymore harm other than draining your battery a little, but i strongly agree with Dancingdad, before its even run again the timing belt (if its belt driven) needs checking to make sure no debris has got in which worst case scenario could cause the timing belt to either jump, snap or come off (like i said it is worst case scenario but not unheard off) and the cause of the belt failure does need diagnosing (try to turn all the pulleys by hand, if one has seized it should be pretty easy to work out which one) first or you may be changing the new belt very quickly, probably unlikely but if its a stretch fit belt make sure the guide pulley is checked for any play
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Morning everyone 08/Aug Saturday. before i give an update thank you to everyone who has put forward ideas to increase my understanding of whats going on. Tomorrow i will have a look by lowering the under engine tray BUT having a quick look now at the front of the tray at the bottom corner i saw what i thought was the belt so poked my finger through the gap only to find a pulley wheel at the bottom of the cover, SO that was the loud banging noise!!!! a pulley wheel flying around !!!!! no idea what damage if any it's caused so may be able to find out tomorrow. More news tomorrow with an update Have a nice weekend it's going to be hot and sunny yippee!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
20/ August 2020 Update on the timing belt situation. Since the last post on the 8/Aug which i never got round to doing an update like i said due to several things at home all happening at the same time and the problem with the van all sort of got on top of me!.
Anyway the latest news the tension guide roller did not do any damage to the brake pipe or to the cam belt as the cam belt is hidden with a steel cover so no problems there. I made arrangements with the garage to change the gene belt and both rollers, also to change the cam belt ( 6 years since last change ) with a new kit including the rollers. I cut the belt away from around the crank shaft pulley and put the tray back in place and drove the van 12 miles to the garage on the battery and no power steering ! what a struggle that was to turn the van round in a small space but on the road it just felt stiff so we got there okay. On collection I was told the second guide roller for the gene belt was not very free and was nearly seized as well so both where changed just s well i thought. Since the change out of both belts I've done 25 miles and no loss of power or warning lights. I did invest in a OBD II code reader and have read all the info with it and plugged it in to see whats going on in the vans brain there were no fault codes logged so i've cleared them all and wait and see what happens when i go out on a trip to my son's which is 75 miles round trip.
I have a tin pot theory that the seized guide rollers may ?? have caused enough friction to maybe slow the crank shaft down a very small amount or the gene from spinning at the correct speed so as to cause the fault to appear on the dash??
Anyway I have ordered a new hand prime bulb for the fuel as you will remember it was being sucked flat by the HP pump I have squeezed it back into shape but I suspect the non return valve in it is sticking causing low fuel supply causing the power loss on hard acceleration and then the warning lights. Anyway it's just a theory at present.
More updates after a long test run.
 
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