Independent Renault Forums banner
1 - 20 of 52 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2010 Megane III 1.6 saloon with manual air conditioning
Started hearing the sound of water sloshing around, somewhere at the front of the car. At around the same time the ventilation fan/blower stopped working.
The water that I could hear was caused by an accumulation of rainwater, in the area at the back of the engine bay, just in front of the windscreen - where your wiper motor and linkages sit and where the car's air ventilation / intake is.
The rainwater had not been able to escape because of a (quite) common problem where drainage pipes on the left and right hand side of this area become blocked with leaves
Further investigation also showed a small amount of water in the driver side footwell, where the accelerator, clutch and brake pedal are.
Initially I carried out the following work:
1) Cleaned the two drainage pipes in front of the windscreen, at the back of the engine bay - So no water sloshing about now
2) Replaced the cabin / pollen filter - This is tricky (Requiring you to work in the area of the driver footwell and having to unbolt and move the clutch pedal!) but the pollen filter must have been wet and the route taken by the water in the driver footwell
3) Replaced the blower motor resistor pack (£78 from Renault - £23 from Ebay) Based on other posts this seemed a likely cause of the non functioning blower motor. It was also a tricky-ish job but the resistor pack sits in the air duct that leads from the fresh air intake (where the water was) to the blower motor and had definite signs of water damage.


Having completed these actions I still had no fan/blower.
Second hand motors for the Megane III were shown on Ebay around £90 and I had seen one Forum post where someone had been quoted £1000+ to replace the blower motor - This is a "massive" (in my opinion) job. Based on the information in the Haynes manual I really didn't fancy having to remove the passenger cabin fascia/dashboard, steering column and main crossmember
I had already checked that no fuses had blown (Checked the fuses in the engine bay and in the fuse box behind the glove box) but I wasn't certain which fuse protected the blower motor.
Using a voltmeter and following the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual (Page 12.22 Wiring Diagram - Diagram 3- Manual air conditioning) I was able to identify that the 12V supply to the blower motor goes via a 40A fuse in the glove box fusebox and that the fuse was definitely not blown.


Note - This fuse is only accessible if you remove the glovebox so that you can see the entire fusebox

GREEN arrow points to fusebox
BLUE arrow is the location of the Blower Motor Resistor pack - although it is hidden behind a metal arm in this photo

Next step was to try and work out if the blower motor was actually faulted.
I had my doubts. Water and electronics do not mix but a motor is a fairly straightforward electrical device.
Following the Haynes wiring diagram again I could see that the electrical supply to the blower motor was via pins 1 and 2 of the plug and socket which is connected to the blower motor resistor pack. I had already found and replaced the resistor pack (which can be accessed, with difficulty, after removing the glove box). Measuring across pins 1 and 2 showed a dead short / zero ohms, exactly what I would expect for an okay d.c. motor - so the motor was probably okay - BUT MIGHT JUST BE STUCK.

BLUE arrow is the Blower Motor Resistor pack
YELLOW arrows are pins 1 and 2 of the connector to the Resistor pack

Tried to work out how to "free up" the motor (in case it was stuck)
My plan was to try and use a hair dryer to blow air around the ventilation ducts and hope to spin the motor - This was a long shot and was probably never going to work
I had removed the windscreen wipers and windscreen cowl panel (Haynes manual 12.14 section 18) As I was working to mask off one side of the air intake (behind the windscreen wiper linkages) I realised that I could see the blower motor through one of the ventilation grills / air intakes


Photos across engine bay showing where it is (just) possible to see the blower motor impeller. Note, at this point I have removed the windscreen cowling then disconnected and moved the wiper arm linkage (which is clearly visible in the photos)

If you look at the attached photo you can clearly see that the motor is made up of cylindrical impellers with dozens of horizontal slats


Took a wire coat hanger and straightened it out (The straightened wire needs to be at least 12 inches long)
This next bit was made easier my unbolting the windscreen wiper linkage (only 6 bolts) and manouvering the linkage out of the way a little.
Shining a torch through the ventilation duct / air intake I could (very carefully) put the end of the coat hanger onto the motor impeller.

Blurred photo trying to show wire coat hanger being pushed through ventilation duct and onto blower motor impeller

The motor definitely felt jammed / it didn't want to move.
After only a few seconds of gently poking the blower motor impeller I felt the motor move.
From this point one the motor had clearly become free.
Every time I touched it lightly with the coat hanger I could see it move / rotate slightly.

And that was it.
Made sure that any fuses that I had been checking were back in and that the connector on the blower motor resistor pack was in place.
Put the ignition key card into its slot, turned the fan / blower control and hey presto, the blower was working.
(It was a tiny bit noisy at first, possibly still had some vegetation / debris stuck in but after half a minute was sounding perfectly normal)

To summarise
a) Blocked drainage pipes had caused water build up at back of engine bay / in front of windscreen
b) Water and probably vegetation / debris had been sucked into the motor
c) At some point the motor had become seized
Clearing the drainage pipes and freeing the motor solved the problem
There had not been any problem with the Blower Motor Resistor pack - I refitted the original part and it works normally
I would still recommend replacing the cabin / pollen filter. Although it isn't a nice job the part only costs £10 and my filter had been wet and contained a lot of vegetation / debris​
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
I cannot thank you enough for this post, especially the tip with the wire coat hanger.

I had exactly the same issue with the scuttle overflowing into the fan. I'd cleared the scuttle and drains and had even bought a 2nd hand fan off ebay in anticipation of getting an independent to take a look.

Gently nudging the fan with the wire freed it up and now the blower is working again as it should. Saved me a costly garage bill :d
 

·
Technical Supremo, Platinum Member
Joined
·
3,957 Posts
Indeed, pressure should be put onto Renault to include scuttle maintenance into the service schedule with the maintenance costs waived due to the poor design of them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Seriously pleased that the information in my post has helped at least one person (churchin) to solve a similar problem with their car. Made the time putting my post together all worthwhile. Thanks for the thanks and positive comments.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
It would appear i have the same problem,as my blower stopped working then started again the next day,it has done this twice and each time there was a strange sound coming from the blower which could mean there was some obstruction causing it to stop.thanks for your post,as i now Know how to clean out the area and rotate the motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thanks so much for this post. Fantastic detail and photos. A follow-up question on this for you or anyone else dealing with the fall-out from blocked scuttle drains (Grrrr :mad:)...

I've checked the fuse behind the glove box and tried a new resistor pack. I also accidentally checked the fan by earthing the vanes on the resistor pack when removing it whilst still plugged in. The fan kicked in so I have power to the resistor pack and the fan is not clogged with leaves etc.

I still have no working fan. Is there another fuse on the circuit or does anyone have any ideas why the blower is still not working?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
A bit of an update in case it's of any use to someone else: I have checked all the connectors going to the resistor pack. With the key in the ignition, the two reds (in pins 2 & 3) are reading 12V and pin 6 has continuity to the earth/car body so that is all as it should be. See achap's photo of the resistor pack for deatils of pins at http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=77585&stc=1&d=1439468640 . I am also getting +12V at Pin 1 which should be connected to earth (most new cars now switch on earth rather than live apparently) when the fan is on. I have connected a wire between pin 1 and the car body so at least now I have the ability to turn the fan on full blast. I still have temperature and iair flow direction control so other than having a noisey fan I am back in business from a heating/cooling/de-misting perspective.

As I have tried a new resistor pack, I suspect the fault lies in the claimate control unit/display or the signal (across pins 4 and 5) to the resistor pack. Note achap's image only has 5 'used' connections rather than 6 with mine. The automatic climate control system uses 6 pins.

Next step for me is to see if I can find instructions for replacing the controller in the dash.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Final installment ….It turns out that it was the climate controller itself that was faulty. The water ingress must have shorted out the signal and blew the fan controls. The main dealer quoted me 3OO euro for a new one but I got one on ebay for 45 euro. Fitting was easy once the dash trim was taken off. A lot of fault finding and trouble resulting from a bad drain design. Best of luck if you face the same problem but this thread should get you sorted.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I have to say a big thank you for this very useful and descriptive thread. My 2010 RS 250 with just 22,000 miles on the clock had sat for 5 days over Christmas and when I went to use it the heater blower wouldn't work.
I too checked everything and found nothing wrong and then spun the fan blades as described and after about 8 turns the blower came back to life. Thank f##k
Many many thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Thanks for the update, not many members do when there problem as been fixed..

I'm sure other members will find this useful in the future..
Thank you so much for the post.
I've been searching for many months for this information and was at the point of spending a lot of money at my local garage.

As soon as I feel brave enough to battle the elements, i'm going to try this out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I'm having the same problem but have followed the steps and sometimes my motor will work and other it will not. When it work I get a horrible sound and vibrations but still no heat. Any help please
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Hi all,

I have a 2009 Scenic 3 with the same problem. No fan on 1,2,3 or 4 setting (man air con). Local garage have checked fuses, wiring and control panel and can't find anything wrong. they said they couldn't locate the resistor pack.

Does anybody know the whereabouts of the resistor pack in a scenic 3? I'm hoping it might be the same place as the megane, so I can try the above remedy.

Any help would be appreciated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Thanks for your tech-genious!
Had the exact same issue with the renault dealer projecting 600+ euro cost to remove entire dash and steering wheel and replace the electromotor. skipped all tutorial parts up untill the hanger: tho screws and 15 minutes later everything worked again!
super-duper tutorial. can't thank you enough!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Thank you guys for this very usefull post. Had the same problem...after 2 weeks of standing on the driveway my mk3's fan stoped working.
To simplify a few things....you can access the fan and spin it with a stick from under the glove box , but you need to start the engine and hit the air recirculation ON as there is cover that comes off and lets the fan exposed.
It's a much easier way to spin a jammed fan than from the wipers position
Problem soved :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Hi,
I know this is an old post but I've had the gutter fill up due to the blocked drain plugs but with me it pulled in masses of water, I've stripped the cowling and cleared the gutter, I've also looked for the fan but I can only see one side? Is this right as its a two sided fan and not sure if the other side is stuck or my motor is fried! I've checked the fuse and that is fine so if only one side is accessable then it's dash out to replace the motor ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
It's a double fan. If you have the glovebox removed you will see it if you put the air recirculation on....put it on full blast and give it a push with a stick or sth....it should start.
Usually is blocked , not fried...
 
1 - 20 of 52 Posts
Top