Independent Renault Forums banner
21 - 40 of 52 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Thank you, its all working now, I could spin the one under the cowling hense why I thought the motor was fried but after doing the above it was the other fan that was stuck, freed and now working again!
At least I now know to check drain pipes every month or two now
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
It's a double fan. If you have the glovebox removed you will see it if you put the air recirculation on....put it on full blast and give it a push with a stick or sth....it should start.
Usually is blocked , not fried...
Hi, any chance you have a photo of the fan from inside the glove box as mine has stopped working, thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Going to try this shortly as I have the same issue. I also have another issue not sure if it’s related to the blocked drains but has anyone had any issues with their accelerator pedal sticking too?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Same issue with a Swedish (steering wheel left side) Megane III 2013 after not driven for a few weeks. Will I still be able to reach and loosen up the fan through the glove compartment bay on the right (!!) side? Or should I try to get up there from the left side, which probably means I will have to dismantle the pedals?!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Same issue with a Swedish (steering wheel left side) Megane III 2013 after not driven for a few weeks. Will I still be able to reach and loosen up the fan through the glove compartment bay on the right (!!) side? Or should I try to get up there from the left side, which probably means I will have to dismantle the pedals?!
You can try. As is a double vent, you probably have access. Don't forget , after you take the glovenox off to put the air recirculation on...as it opens an access to the vent. Not sure....but 90% probable :) Have fun...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Thanks for great tips! Worked fine from under the glove compartment on the right side in a swedish car with steering-wheel on the left. Clips were tight and did not come off easily. Just poked the fan a few times and all was good.
If you suspect clogged drains to be the cause you might also want to do a clean up. Here is a good video:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
good afternoon,
don´t know if this still active...try to do that job, but after, i remeber that my car is a left steering wheel...can i reach the fan anyway?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
good afternoon,
don´t know if this still active...try to do that job, but after, i remeber that my car is a left steering wheel...can i reach the fan anyway?
Get the glovebox off, after that play with the air recirculation buton so you can see the moving part. The vent is just under it...give it a gentile push and you should be fine. Dont't forget to clean the crap under the windscreen . Have fun :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Ah ok...I was talking about the outside aproach,wich is opositoe to this one as the wipes are at right and that grey iron bar is até left blocking de acess to the fan...inside: i can remove de glove box that is in your driving position in UK?i doesn't know that the fan was bilateral.thanks a lot for the response..i Will do it now
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Ah ok...I was talking about the outside aproach,wich is opositoe to this one as the wipes are at right and that grey iron bar is até left blocking de acess to the fan...inside: i can remove de glove box that is in your driving position in UK?i doesn't know that the fan was bilateral.thanks a lot for the response..i Will do it now
It's a dual fan , so in theory it shout be the same access from either sides. I couldn't push it from under the windscreen...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
A bit of an update in case it's of any use to someone else: I have checked all the connectors going to the resistor pack. With the key in the ignition, the two reds (in pins 2 & 3) are reading 12V and pin 6 has continuity to the earth/car body so that is all as it should be. See achap's photo of the resistor pack for deatils of pins at http://www.renaultforums.co.uk/attachment.php?attachmentid=77585&stc=1&d=1439468640 . I am also getting +12V at Pin 1 which should be connected to earth (most new cars now switch on earth rather than live apparently) when the fan is on. I have connected a wire between pin 1 and the car body so at least now I have the ability to turn the fan on full blast. I still have temperature and iair flow direction control so other than having a noisey fan I am back in business from a heating/cooling/de-misting perspective.

As I have tried a new resistor pack, I suspect the fault lies in the claimate control unit/display or the signal (across pins 4 and 5) to the resistor pack. Note achap's image only has 5 'used' connections rather than 6 with mine. The automatic climate control system uses 6 pins.

Next step for me is to see if I can find instructions for replacing the controller in the dash.

I think I have to try this! my Megane fan blower isn't work...fuse fine, I have new resistor and still no blower... the fan is spinning fine when I test them with the battery with pin 1 n 2...also when I try put the resistor back in and accidentally touch the car body and the blower was work....

does it sound same issue? I ll order the automatic climate control from eBay... fingercross it will solve the problem
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Thank you so much. Fixed my wife's megane blower using this thread. Did the "lie in the footwell, recirculation on" method. Bodged it several times with some plastic conduit, and it works. Thanks for everyone's tips.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Final installment ….It turns out that it was the climate controller itself that was faulty. The water ingress must have shorted out the signal and blew the fan controls. The main dealer quoted me 3OO euro for a new one but I got one on ebay for 45 euro. Fitting was easy once the dash trim was taken off. A lot of fault finding and trouble resulting from a bad drain design. Best of luck if you face the same problem but this thread should get you sorted.
Hi, where can i find the climate controller
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I think I have to try this! my Megane fan blower isn't work...fuse fine, I have new resistor and still no blower... the fan is spinning fine when I test them with the battery with pin 1 n 2...also when I try put the resistor back in and accidentally touch the car body and the blower was work....

does it sound same issue? I ll order the automatic climate control from eBay... fingercross it will solve the problem
Hi sir, got same problem, can you please give some update after changing the climate control, is it working now? Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I have a 2010 Megane III 1.6 saloon with manual air conditioning
Started hearing the sound of water sloshing around, somewhere at the front of the car. At around the same time the ventilation fan/blower stopped working.
The water that I could hear was caused by an accumulation of rainwater, in the area at the back of the engine bay, just in front of the windscreen - where your wiper motor and linkages sit and where the car's air ventilation / intake is.
The rainwater had not been able to escape because of a (quite) common problem where drainage pipes on the left and right hand side of this area become blocked with leaves
Further investigation also showed a small amount of water in the driver side footwell, where the accelerator, clutch and brake pedal are.
Initially I carried out the following work:
1) Cleaned the two drainage pipes in front of the windscreen, at the back of the engine bay - So no water sloshing about now
2) Replaced the cabin / pollen filter - This is tricky (Requiring you to work in the area of the driver footwell and having to unbolt and move the clutch pedal!) but the pollen filter must have been wet and the route taken by the water in the driver footwell
3) Replaced the blower motor resistor pack (£78 from Renault - £23 from Ebay) Based on other posts this seemed a likely cause of the non functioning blower motor. It was also a tricky-ish job but the resistor pack sits in the air duct that leads from the fresh air intake (where the water was) to the blower motor and had definite signs of water damage.


Having completed these actions I still had no fan/blower.
Second hand motors for the Megane III were shown on Ebay around £90 and I had seen one Forum post where someone had been quoted £1000+ to replace the blower motor - This is a "massive" (in my opinion) job. Based on the information in the Haynes manual I really didn't fancy having to remove the passenger cabin fascia/dashboard, steering column and main crossmember
I had already checked that no fuses had blown (Checked the fuses in the engine bay and in the fuse box behind the glove box) but I wasn't certain which fuse protected the blower motor.
Using a voltmeter and following the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual (Page 12.22 Wiring Diagram - Diagram 3- Manual air conditioning) I was able to identify that the 12V supply to the blower motor goes via a 40A fuse in the glove box fusebox and that the fuse was definitely not blown.


Note - This fuse is only accessible if you remove the glovebox so that you can see the entire fusebox

GREEN arrow points to fusebox
BLUE arrow is the location of the Blower Motor Resistor pack - although it is hidden behind a metal arm in this photo

Next step was to try and work out if the blower motor was actually faulted.
I had my doubts. Water and electronics do not mix but a motor is a fairly straightforward electrical device.
Following the Haynes wiring diagram again I could see that the electrical supply to the blower motor was via pins 1 and 2 of the plug and socket which is connected to the blower motor resistor pack. I had already found and replaced the resistor pack (which can be accessed, with difficulty, after removing the glove box). Measuring across pins 1 and 2 showed a dead short / zero ohms, exactly what I would expect for an okay d.c. motor - so the motor was probably okay - BUT MIGHT JUST BE STUCK.

BLUE arrow is the Blower Motor Resistor pack
YELLOW arrows are pins 1 and 2 of the connector to the Resistor pack

Tried to work out how to "free up" the motor (in case it was stuck)
My plan was to try and use a hair dryer to blow air around the ventilation ducts and hope to spin the motor - This was a long shot and was probably never going to work
I had removed the windscreen wipers and windscreen cowl panel (Haynes manual 12.14 section 18) As I was working to mask off one side of the air intake (behind the windscreen wiper linkages) I realised that I could see the blower motor through one of the ventilation grills / air intakes


Photos across engine bay showing where it is (just) possible to see the blower motor impeller. Note, at this point I have removed the windscreen cowling then disconnected and moved the wiper arm linkage (which is clearly visible in the photos)

If you look at the attached photo you can clearly see that the motor is made up of cylindrical impellers with dozens of horizontal slats


Took a wire coat hanger and straightened it out (The straightened wire needs to be at least 12 inches long)
This next bit was made easier my unbolting the windscreen wiper linkage (only 6 bolts) and manouvering the linkage out of the way a little.
Shining a torch through the ventilation duct / air intake I could (very carefully) put the end of the coat hanger onto the motor impeller.

Blurred photo trying to show wire coat hanger being pushed through ventilation duct and onto blower motor impeller

The motor definitely felt jammed / it didn't want to move.
After only a few seconds of gently poking the blower motor impeller I felt the motor move.
From this point one the motor had clearly become free.
Every time I touched it lightly with the coat hanger I could see it move / rotate slightly.

And that was it.
Made sure that any fuses that I had been checking were back in and that the connector on the blower motor resistor pack was in place.
Put the ignition key card into its slot, turned the fan / blower control and hey presto, the blower was working.
(It was a tiny bit noisy at first, possibly still had some vegetation / debris stuck in but after half a minute was sounding perfectly normal)

To summarise
a) Blocked drainage pipes had caused water build up at back of engine bay / in front of windscreen
b) Water and probably vegetation / debris had been sucked into the motor
c) At some point the motor had become seized
Clearing the drainage pipes and freeing the motor solved the problem
There had not been any problem with the Blower Motor Resistor pack - I refitted the original part and it works normally
I would still recommend replacing the cabin / pollen filter. Although it isn't a nice job the part only costs £10 and my filter had been wet and contained a lot of vegetation / debris
Fantastic post, thank you. I have the 1.9dci and it’s just happened to me trust after going through a car wash, I have freed the gunk in the bulkhead drainage holes and now no more water. But heater fan stopped a short while after. I will try to free it off after checking the fuse first and I’ll change the cabin filter at the same time. I have a filter that was left by previous owner, now I know why 😂. I will post on here to let you know if it worked. Thanks again for such a detailed post, very gracious of you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Fantastic post, thank you. I have the 1.9dci and it’s just happened to me trust after going through a car wash, I have freed the gunk in the bulkhead drainage holes and now no more water. But heater fan stopped a short while after. I will try to free it off after checking the fuse first and I’ll change the cabin filter at the same time. I have a filter that was left by previous owner, now I know why 😂. I will post on here to let you know if it worked. Thanks again for such a detailed post, very gracious of you.
Update from me, after cleaning out the drain holes on the bulkhead under windscreen and draining all the water away, I left it for a couple of days. Went to start to do this but thought I’d try the fan first, it worked!! So now no need to do anything more. I do need to change the cabin filter which looks to be a pain in the rear to do. But the carpets are wet at the top on both sides, so there must be water in the filter housing too. You have to take the clutch pedal off?

once again brilliant thread and very informative thank you. Ian
 
21 - 40 of 52 Posts
Top