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2011 Megane Gt Line Radio Code Required?

2K views 28 replies 7 participants last post by  Zeteckiller 
#1 ·
Hi All,

Does anybody know if a 2011 Megane Gt Line with sat nav would require a radio code? I need to replace the battery and want to make sure I can get the code if required. Can't find anything online except those dodgy radio code sites.

Thanks.
 
#4 ·
You can get what I believe is called 'memory retainer'. It is a kind of dummy plug that with a battery that connects to the OBD diagnostic ports. You can get them from fleabay. I have seen one used when my work van's battery died without warning. The AA man used one of these when he swapped out the battery.
 
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#9 ·
I think I would rather find 1 battery I can clip the crocodile clips on.. changing a battery on my car is a major faff and not a 5 minute job.. as it would be my first swap out of an AGM battery on these cars I dont want to make a major c0ck up in the process and would like plenty of time swapping it out.. thankfully I dont need to do it at the moment and I am driving my car at least twice a week around 20 to 30 mile to maintain it but just think of those that dont ..doesnt bare thinking about does it.. :unsure:
 
#10 ·
That was just a statement, that 8 AAA battery pack can hold radio memory.
Of course it would be clumsy to have them firmly connected together as any other 12V source is better.

Long time ago I was trying to figure out how can I change battery without loosing code by using only 1 set of jumper cables, old and new battery. Gave up after 10 minutes and I used battery charger instead.
Clamped it to the poles, old out, new in, done.
 
#11 ·
That was just a statement, that 8 AAA battery pack can hold radio memory.
Of course it would be clumsy to have them firmly connected together as any other 12V source is better.

Long time ago I was trying to figure out how can I change battery without loosing code by using only 1 set of jumper cables, old and new battery. Gave up after 10 minutes and I used battery charger instead.
Clamped it to the poles, old out, new in, done.
Thought of battery charger but then again for 2 reasons I ruled it out.. possible damage to electrical system and ECU and its been covered on the kia forum I am on and told to do it at your own risk because of possible damage to the ISG system .. negative sensor cable for this car is hundreds of pounds to buy.. so wont be going there.. one poster did it had a sensor go down and changed the cable.. but still could not delete the code for that when a light popped up.. even a dealer failed to turn this light off.. the car now has a permanent light on the dash with no solution on how to delete it.. latest post is he has part ex the car with an MOT just around the corner..:eek:
 
#12 · (Edited)
I have just completed a little project. As Phil says it’s a bit of a faff getting the battery out to replace or recharge it. Some of you may remember me asking question upon question about me wanting to swap my original 8 year old AGM battery for a new one. I was concerned as depending what you read, you may have to have the BCM reset and other things. During the learning process I found that modern battery chargers can be used directly on the battery whist it is still connected to the car, with the caveat that you connect the charger between the +ve battery terminal and the -ve of the charger to chassis NOT the -ve battery pole.
I did some research an bought a Ctek MSX 5.0. it’s quite expensive but you can get extension kits etc.

Today I have wired the charger directly to the battery then using the official Ctek extension lead, threaded it from under the bonnet, through the cabin hidden safely behind trim panels and into the boot where I have secured the MXS 5.0 charger.

It means that I can start to charge the battery in a matter of minutes. I reverse onto my driveway and the boot is adjacent to an external mains socket. Just open the boot, take the mains lead out and plug it into the weather proof external socket.
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#17 · (Edited)
When batteries are on charge they need ventilation.. do you lift the bonnet to disperse any gasses that are given off..
The battery is appears to be completely sealed, I could not see any vent holes at all. However, there is still plenty of ventilation without lifting the bonnet.

Having said that, I am surprised that I haven’t warn the bonnet hinges out. I am always checking this and that.
 
#14 ·
I does look good when it’s been pressure washed. I have to clean it every couple of years as it being sandstone, absorbs moisture and goes slippery quite quickly.
I have not long since cleaned it.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Just to put my 2 pence worth in here, the DC from battery chargers can be dirty (it isn't always).
If you have a big capacitor (battery) across it it will absorb the peaks and some of the spikes (spikes from switch mode chargers, hummy higher volts DC from old tech 50hz transformer chargers.)
If you end up in a situation where that supply is connected to the vehicle electronics and there is no battery across the charger there is a possibility of voltage spikes or peaks damaging the vehicle electronics. I certainly wouldn't use a battery charger for that reason, unless there was always going to be a battery across it.
The radio itself only needs a few milliamps to keep it alive, and it can go way below 12V and still be OK, but the door might open, lights might come on and other electronics in the car might kick in so I'd use something a little more substantial to be on the safe side.
 
#22 ·
I cannot envisage a time when I would remove the battery and leave the charger connected. It’s not something you could really do accidentally.
But I take your point.
 
#27 ·
Then my 3 pence.

Shortage of time made me do it. That was the easiest and quickest procedure if I wanted the car to move and have a working radio in it. I would not dare do that on a car with AGM battery, they are far more complicated.
From that time, I find it easiest to disconnect the radio with 12 V to it's feed wires to keep the memory.

Every car generator is producing what a colleague calls "dirty".
That is why all of them are using car battery, to cut the edges of voltage spikes.

If you consider the procedure, charger is connected while old battery is still in the system.
Old out, new battery in. No major current users, ignition is off anyway, apart from radio memory and clock, charger voltage should be decently constant.
New battery connected into the loop, now you disconnect the charger and new battery is already there to serve as a buffer for voltage spikes as there will be some regardless of what I do.
 
#28 ·
Apparently, laptop chargers, especially ones with about 15 Volts, are supposed to be excellent car chargers.
Lots of sophisticated electronics to keep voltage steady and it will gradually lower the voltage as the battery is close to full capacity. I have one, just have to fetch 2 clamps and then testing.
Thank God my old bucket uses normal battery.
 
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