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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Early this year the turbo gave up and I had an oil leak from the camshaft seal.
Eventually replaced the parts and got the car up and running again.
As the weather was awful and I needed the car in a hurry, I didnt bother putting some minor parts such as cambelt covers back on. Thought I would leave that until summer.
Of course it went to the back of my mind until just as I arrived home from work one day last week there was a strange noise from the engine.
It turned out that the alternator belt had came off (only about a year old so dont know why) and tangled around the bottom of the cambelt.
It happened at tickover, so I thought I might be lucky and have got away without serious damage.
I took the cambelt off, retrieved the bits of shredded alternator belt and then reassembled everything making sure the timing was ok. .
Turned the engine over two revolutions on a socket, then wound it over on the starter to see what happened.
There are no nasty mechanical noises, but no sign of the engine firing up either.
I tried squirting some brake cleaner into the air intake, and it fired up for a few seconds and died again, which would be expected.
This then points me to a lack of fuel supply, so I plugged the code reader in and got p0089 FPR fault.
Im aware from previous issues that this could mean various things, and probably not a fault with the FPR.
It has to be connected to what happened but Im struggling to work out what the connection is.
I would think it unlikely to see this code generated from bent valves, for example,
Any suggestions welcome
Tia.

Bradders
 

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Fuel pressure regulator ???
Can't see that from timing/valves
But if the aux belt shredded, did it by any chance wipe out cables in the area?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Only cables I can see around there are the two wires to the cam sensor, which look ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I dont think so. Its just a basic Autel code reader. Also Its actually 3 wires at the cam sensor not two. My mistake.
Next thing is to check those out in case Ive stretched them while moving them out of the way.
Then it may well be down the weighbridge. It seems to be one of those cars that has a serious issue every few months, and Ive had about enough of it now to be honest.
I do have a Renault.com bluetooth scanner, but dont seem to be able to make the bluetooth connection to it any more for some reason. Thats a pity, as I hoped that might be able to throw a bit more light on whats happening.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Bluetooth
Whats happening when you connect it to the car
This on a lappy?
Bluetooth discoverable.
Or have you been on tinternet, with Programme open ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Laptop yes. Now you mention it,I think I may have still have had a couple of sites still open on the laptop.
Will try again later today with everything else shut down.
Thanks, that may just have been the problem.
 

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When you squirted in the brake cleaner and it fired, did it sound right?

While I cannot think why fuel regulation should be affected by timing, there is no escaping that valves could be damaged.... common wisdom says they are but never 100%.... don't lose sight of that chasing something while missing the elephant in the room.

Did you have the rocker box off to have a look at valve movements?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
For the few seconds it was running I think it sounded ok. I still suspect some valve damage myself, although hoping the fact it happened at tickover might have saved it. Havent checked valve movements yet with rocker box off.
Managed to connect to bluetooth scanner just now.
As engine isnt running it isnt going to provide live data etc. but I did get a further fault code out of it. P0170 fuel trim.
I suppose this ties in with lack of fuel being supplied to the engine ?
I suspected battery was getting low so connected jump leads from my Omega and tried to start it again. It spun over quickly, without any nasty sounds, but no attempt to fire up.
Theres plenty of fuel in the tank, so I should probably start with the supply pipe from the tank to filter and work forward from there through the fuel system ?
Still cant see any connection with last weeks episode though, and Im not much of a believer in coincidences.
 

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I think I'd bite the bullet and take the rocker cover off before chasing fuel much more.
If nothing else it would remove or highlight the elephant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Good idea. May not be definitive, but if I can see a valve or two definitely isnt opening or closing to the same extent as the others, then no point chasing anything else any further.
Cheers.
 

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Should be able to see if a valve is not following the cam or if gaps seem too large.
Or stick in a feeler guage to ensure no gaps that shouldn't be there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Managed to spend a bit more time on this today. Cam cover off, pushed all of the lifters down and they all sprung back up again, nothing seems to be sticking. clearances all similar to each other. So the top end of the engine seems to be ok as far as I can tell.
Reassembled everything and its still the same. No fuel getting to the injectors.and I have no idea why.
Still getting FPR fault code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Next thing I have done is to bypass everything up to and including the filter, and ran a pipe from a jug of diesel up to the pump inlet.
It seems to suck fuel up to the pump and it returns it back to the filter, so Im now guessing that the injectors arent being fired to allow fuel into the cylinders.
Probably a lot of possible reasons for that, but I cant see why any of them might occur when the cambelt jumps a few teeth.
Is it possible to check voltage at the injectors using a multimeter, or is that a job for something more involved ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Next thing I have done is to bypass everything up to and including the filter, and ran a pipe from a jug of diesel up to the pump inlet.
It seems to suck fuel up to the pump and it returns it back to the filter, so Im now guessing that the injectors arent being fired to allow fuel into the cylinders.
Probably a lot of possible reasons for that, but I cant see why any of them might occur when the cambelt jumps a few teeth.
Is it possible to check voltage at the injectors using a multimeter, or is that a job for something more involved ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, Ive just had it running briefly, and it sounded fine mechanically.
I charged the battery today as it had started getting low due to all the turning over.
Just put the battery back on, turned the key and it fired up and ran.
fault light was on though so after a minute or two I switched it off and read the code. It gave a cam sensor code, which then reminded me that I hadnt put the cam sensor back on when I took it off to look for visible damage.
Replaced the cam sensor, then tried to start it again and it was just the same as before. No sign of starting.
Took the cam sensor off again and tried to start it again, but still the same.
Confused ? I certainly am.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Put your pipe work back how it should be
Find your primer bulb

Get someone to turn the key
Pump the bulb, and at the same time fire easystart into the turbo mouth
Keep pumping and spraying until the engine runs on its own
The minute you broke into the Fuel system on a diesel, you had put another issue into your car

You said its not damaged valves

Did you set everything up with tools
Or is your crank got a key way and you could see the key way at the bottom, and the peg would fit into the cam and go into the hole in the head

Might not have done damage, but check that the cam is now correct to cam

Pretty sure on this head,, the valves do dink and bend ever so slightly and compression becomes low
But you cannot tell by looking at cam, as my mind is saying these are hydraulic tappets so buckets will go back up to the cams
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ive already done the pump the bulb while turning the engine over while spraying easy start. It started on the easy start, but cut out as soon as it used it up.
This was different though. It just started off the key and ran fine until I switched it off again.
Might be worth trying again now though, as it has actually run on its own steam as it were.
Yep, keyway on the crank and setting tool in the recess in the head to set the timing.Pretty confident thats all ok.
They are indeed hydraulic, so your theory makes sense. It could still be slightly bent valves, so I suppose I really need a diesel compression tester to be certain.
They arent cheap though, just for a single use.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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If you look where the sensor is, you will see it runs off the Fuel Injector Pump



The cam is in sync with the crank, ( TDC on both) and the fuel pump is a set amount of teeth away from the cam.think its 19 , not sure here could be 18

But its set at a certain point with markings
Have you checked Fuel pump is in the correct place?

Dont want to put anything else and put you on any more of a downer until you have checked Cam Crank and injector pump are timed correctly
Assuming the only code you have now is Fuel pressure related

State what code you have in your reply
Not yes its that, but actually put the fault code in your post
I am ignoring your original code in your title so wont mention that code until you actually write it down in your response
Because I cannot make out, if you have a fuel injection code, or a cam code or both now
 
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