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Discussion Starter #1
I´m having a problem with some air inside the diesel tubes.

Can´t find any leak. So i replaced several tubes (image below) and the diesel filter.

183111


I think after replacing that pieces i see less bubbles.. But i can´t extinguish all of them..

The engine is a 19.D (2001). Should i purge the system, or that purge is automatic?

If i have to purge it i assume that i have to use air bleeder of the photo below.

183112


In that case how is this air bleeder supposed to be operated?

Thank you
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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DO NOT TOUCH THAT
You will always get air in a Diesel Fuel Line ALWAYS ..
Does it have a Primer Bulb on it ??/?
 

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What Ourkid said.

Air in diesel lines is common and often gives no problems.
Especially if the return line goes into the filter cos then the air just circulates, slowly being purged via the injectors... the older system of the return pipe back to tank was better but more expensive.
It can be excessive and give starting problems or it may be obvious where it is coming from, like a leaky pipe sucking air in.
But if not, there is an old saying, if it isn't broke, don't fix it.

One thing being as you have replaced pipes and what looks like a primer so would have had to reprime….
I usually prime with the filter to pump (or primer to pump) disconnected and pump until fuel comes out.
Then connect and disconnect the return pipe to the filter, pump again till fuel comes out.
Then connect and prime again.
Gets rid of most of the air in the system before firing the beasty up.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
"
DO NOT TOUCH THAT
You will always get air in a Diesel Fuel Line ALWAYS ..
Does it have a Primer Bulb on it ??/? "

Thanks ours2012.. i won´t..

Dancingdad and ours212.. yes.. i have a primer bulb.. and i used it to get all the air out with the help of the air bleeder (photo below).

183184



After that process all tubes run out of air.
The problem is when I drive with the van. After some time, air appears again. They are not bubbles .. it is a kind of air bag next to the diesel filter . See photo below


183185



is this normal to happen?

Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi again.. still can´t fix this..

After the visit to the mecanic, he told me that the problem should be in the diesel filter box..

So i buy a new one, from puflux (Fc 571) with a new filter inside. (See photo)

183396

After mounting it.. Problem.. not solved..!!

I'm going crazy .. The problem seems so basic, and I can't get to the solution..

I replaced all the diesel lines with the original kit, the diesel filter box. I have no air in the tube that comes from the tank to the filter .. then air comes out of the filter to supply the injection pump?!

How is this possible? if the air does not enter the filter at all?

183397


ANY possibility of bubbles entering the filter due to a problem in the injection pump?
It's a Lucas Epic Pump
 

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If the car runs normally then ignore it, I have seen many like this and it's not a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Ralph.. But at this time the car doesn´t run normally sometimes.. irregular specially in low rpms..when that happens.. i see lots of bubbles in the diesel lines
 

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Does it knock at any time?
do you know how to do a leak off test or know someone that does,
I am thinking you have sticking injector only problem is which one
the leak off test may tell you but as it seems to be intermittent you
may have to do the test when it's running rough, injectors are not
cheap so you don't want to get into a parts swapping session.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hi Ralph, I already did the leak of test .. and everything is ok with the injectors.
Mr. Ismael, is an excellent mechanic, and I am lucky to be able to enjoy his services.
He is very good with everything that is mechanical (67 years old).
The electronics present in the latest cars are his weak point
I'm going to ask you to watch the video from the link below to understand why I'm going crazy about this.
In Mr. Ismael's opinion, air can only enter through the filter box, since there is no air at the entrance, only at the exit.
But the filter box is new, and the same thing happened with the old one

Please watch


Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi, news from the kangoo..

I would never imagine that the hose kit was defective. One of the plugs had a defective oring which allowed the air to enter next to the fuel filter.

The kit was replaced by an original and the air bubbles no longer exist.

It turns out that even without air bubbles after two days the van started to have an irregular idle, immediately thought of Ralph's words, and I thought it was an injector.

I went to the mechanic to do a diagnostic test and the injectors were fine. The problem is.. supposedly in the Throttle Position Sensor / Switch (TPS) A Circuit Malfunction (OBD Code 0120).

I'll go on Wednesday to replace it. Question: Can this sensor cause a completely irregular idle?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
With the engine cold, I can drive without any symptoms for about two minutes.
After that period the irregular idle begins.
Can the tps sensor cause this, or is it something else?
I didn't want to spend more money for nothing
Thanks guys
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Kangoo..New episode

Supposedly a new tps sensor was tested on the van and did not solve the problem. I paid for the labor and they suggested that I think about repairing the injection pump.

I went to this automobile repair shop because I'm pretty sure that I have an electrical / electronic problem and this place is the one that is best equipped in that area.

It was a disappointment, not because they didn't fix the problem for me, but because when I opened the bonnet of the van I got scared. completely sprinkled with what seemed to me oil ... then.. with a closer look I realized that the EGR was removed ... anyway ... every tubes and wires mounted outside the supports, etc.. etc

I have practically no answers to this topic, but I continue to share with the hope that someone will at least be able to confirm if I am thinking well or not ..

summary: After the air in the fuel lines, the van began to fail.. rough idle also in slow running, sometimes also in a faster gear, but at least it is not noticed so much. The van pulls well, responds well to the accelerator touch and starts as soon as i turn the key on without hesitation.

What intrigues me here is this:
* Cold .. the van has no symptoms and works normally without fail. About 3 minutes, then it starts to fail.
If it were from the pedal position sensor (tps) , or from the injection pump, shouldn't it fail as soon as i start the engine?
 

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Cold to hot change could be coolant temp sensor playing up.... ie still thinking it's cold as the engine warms.
But before you go that way and start swapping, it would be a coincidence for that to fail after you had the air in pipes issues.
Have you disconnected the battery since the problem occurred?
If not, it may be worth trying (ensure you have radio code and will need to reset windows)
Switch it off, take keys out with you and give it 10 minutes for the ECU to close down properly.
Then disconnect negative terminal and go and have a cuppa.
Turn on lights, reconnect, see if any change.
Thoughts behind this is that the system learns trim levels over time.
And may have learnt faulty ones from the air in system issue.
Disconnecting the battery sets things back to factory default.
Don't leave keys in car, sometimes they self lock.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Can you get A DF code.
OBD code is of no use here..
DF code will also give another code at the end.
Need this also
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Dancingdad as soon as I removed the plug from the coolant temperature sensor .. The van came back ..Idling returned to normal.
I already have the new sensor..
Tomorrow I will replace it, then I give feedback ..
ours2012.. Although I think I found the solution, I will see if I can find a way to read the DF codes.
Thank you all so much for the help
 

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Fair enough.
When you swap the sensor.
Remove coolant filler cap and stretch a plastic bag over the filling hole then replace the cap.
Will hold the coolant by suction and you should only lose a drop or two when you remove the sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Only this week i was able to get back to work in the van
The water temperature sensor did not solve the problem.
The van continues with irregularl idling and is always jerking at low speed.
I found that turning off the speed sensor also improves idling. What makes me realize that the less data is sent to the ECU the better is its performance at idle or low speed.
I also thought about the possibility of a short circuit or broken wire, but all the sensors are working and sending values to the ECU.
Stepping back a bit, the obd error recorded in the ECU is a problem in the TPS. However supposedly it was tested on the mechanic and it was ok. However I also tested sensor and it seems to me that it is working correctly.
It is a two-tracks sensor. With the sensor on, and powered with 5 volts, I have in one track with the pedal at rest, 0.3v gradually rising to 1.98v at full acceleration, and on the other track I have 0.7v with the pedal at rest and 4.3v in total acceleration . I think they are acceptable values for a tps, or not?
I don't know what to do anymore, I'm tired of spending money onthe mechanic´s and they don't solve the problem for me.
I don't want to sell the van.
Any idea?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Tomorrow I will ask for a quote for the repair of the injection pump, although I am not 100% sure that this is the problem.
The van works very well in the cold, without any fault .. Only when it starts to heat up, the problem starts. Could it be a problem with eletrovalves that are attached to the pump?
If it was a problem with the injection pump, shouldn't it also happen in the cold?
The van responds very well to the touch of the accelerator.
I think I will spent more money and I won't have the problem solved.
 
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