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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a clio E engine 1171 cc single point injection 1994
The air intake temperature sensor is definitely faulty, both because its a pig to start when its cold, but it does, and the ohm testing according to Haynes is out of spec.
the illustration and description in Haynes absolutely fits mine, but no matter how and what model I search in all the aftermarket suppliers I can't find my sensor.
every one is a sort of rigid plastic right angled piece with two contacts or a sort of typical sesor that would screw into the block. mine looks like this. Any thoughts on how to find this.?
 

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Super mod..
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I always like a challenge and try to find stuff but in this case I think it might be easier to find rocking horse droppings than this one..馃槙
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Even though the motor is identical to the pics and photos in Haynes, its possible it was a heart transplant from another car...Any ideas what other Renaults fitted this ? 19s, 21s? maybe, But as said, I've searched through European, British, even official Renault original equipment sites and it ain't there. but it is in Haynes as per the foto, and line drawing.
Hmmm ......
 

Super mod..
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Even though the motor is identical to the pics and photos in Haynes, its possible it was a heart transplant from another car...Any ideas what other Renaults fitted this ? 19s, 21s? maybe, But as said, I've searched through European, British, even official Renault original equipment sites and it ain't there. but it is in Haynes as per the foto, and line drawing.
Hmmm ......
I tried my dialogy's sites and couldn't even find that model and year on them. Given the year its a Mk1 clio and none of them host the clio of that age now.. If I could have found a part number I would have at least had a starting point to work from..
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks thats looking helpful, certainly both those pics are my air filter housing etc. good ol' wiki.
Can't look now, pushed for time, Thanx all the same
 

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@unclejonboy
Just a thought, if the ohms range matches any of the other sensors which are available, perhaps you could graft a different sensor on?
How far out was the ohms range?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
at normal working temperature its fine, and here its hot even first thing in the morning , but if its about 20潞c or less, the readings on the ohm meter show closed circuit. and its a sob to start.
Problem will be the other sensors available have two pins, mine in the photo has four, but the four pin connector on mine has four wires disappearing into the domed black bit and inside that, and inside the throttle body, there's only two pins.
 

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When you say closed you mean short i.e low resistance?
What's the spec supposed to be when it's working properly?
I see what you mean with the 4 wires, are there 4 individual pins in the brown connector or are the two black and two white just parallelled?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
OK
Im not too savvy with this electrickery stuff, and I hate to keep going back to HRH Haynes because it isn't always accurate but---
resistance at 0潞C should be about 6000 give or take.
at 20潞C, 2500,
at 40潞C 1200
with my cheapo multimeter set at 2K
Im getting nothing at 0潞C that is , its like if I touch the two leads I go from 1 to more or less zero-but Im getting 1 still. at 0潞C
at twenty, should be 2500 I'm getting about 1800.
at 40潞C should be 1200, spot on
Lord haynes says as the temperature increases the ohms should drop. well, they do, but the issue is at 'cold' the 'Choke' cos this is what it really is, no?. is not working, in other words no cold start facility. . once its all up and running no probs. good mpg, smooth blah blah.. I made the tests with jugs of hot water and a few mins in the freezer.... I'm certain its the sensor , the problem is I can't find the replacement
 

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I think you may be drawing the wrong conclusion from your test, when the meter is set to 2000 ohms it鈥檚 showing that the resistance is over 2000, as it should be when cold. You need to set the meter to a higher resistance range (20k) to measure the higher resistance- also the measurements are sort of in the ball park, and it鈥檚 encouraging that they are changing with temperature so I鈥檓 not convinced that the issue is the air temperature sensor. Has the crank sensor been cleaned/checked?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for that Wozz. the margin of error on each reading is for instance at 2500 plus minus 100. I tried on higher ohms setting but always got 1 , that is no change in reading at cold. as I said, I not so good with electroics, but my old school mechanic experience makes me certain its a temperature related mixture issue. It does start from cold but its just as if you had a manual choke on a carb and you didn't have it set right. It starts, stops, starts etc. and with a bit of coaxing and pummping the gas it runs without stalling, but won't pull for a minute or two. When its warm, thre's no problem. good economy plenty of power, runs fine. Its just that first couple of minutes on a fresh cool morning.
 

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man, i love the Energy engines.

@unclejonboy
Just a thought, if the ohms range matches any of the other sensors which are available, perhaps you could graft a different sensor on?
How far out was the ohms range?
This is the suggestion i would make - all components can be repaired. Can the sensor that you've pictured be disassembled?
 

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Can also use a plain and standard 2K5 NTC resistor available from most electronic spares shops and graft it onto the relevant wires - seal it up afterwards with silicon
 

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Can also use a plain and standard 2K5 NTC resistor available from most electronic spares shops and graft it onto the relevant wires - seal it up afterwards with silicon
This sounds like a cunning plan.....
 

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I have some nagging doubts here. If the resistance is reading infinite or very very high at 20C (I'm not even convinced of that, thermistors, of which there is almost certainly one inside the sensor, don't tend to fail in that sort of manner. Try to borrow a different testmeter with a 20k scale and re-measure)- anyway you could just splice a 10k variable resistor- or a suitable thermistor if you can find one across the sensor and that will prove the issue it's value chosen (use testmeter and tweak resistor) to match the temp roughly (so if temp is 12C set the variable to say 4.7k ohm)
But I think it's more likely to be the engine temperature sensor (if it is a temperature issue) that's the problem here, not the air intake temperature.
(By the way if the figures are accurate the nearest I can get to those figures at a quick glance is a 2.2k ohm thermistor with a 22k resistor across it, which would more or less approximate those numbers quoted but I'm still not convinced that's the cause)
 
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