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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, can anyone tell me if I have an automatic spring tensioner on my 1.4L 16V K4J engine please?

I'm thinking of changing the serpentine belt, but don't think I'll be up for it if I need to adjust the tension afterwards. I think I may need a special Renault tool!!!

Thanks.

Dang!
Just re-read the Haynes manual and it appears that I do indeed need Renault special tool No. blah, blah, blah!
 
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If it's the specialist tool i'm going to need in about an hour, it'll be a fkin big screwdriver and persistance!
 
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If you haven't got A/C then you probably won’t have a sprung loaded tensioner. There may well be a Renault tool to lock the tensioner in position? Once you turn the tensioner arm using a spanner on the pulley bolt clockwise to remove all the tension I generally use an allen key in the locking hole. In the photos is a sprung loaded tensioner from a 2.0 F4R Scenic engine

I have 2 Scenic here with the 1.4 K4J engines neither has A/C and both have manually adjustable auxiliary belt tensioners. I screw an M10 bolt into the tensioner bracket to adjust the auxiliary belt. I’m not sure whether they are missing on both my cars ? or the bolt is supposed to be removed after tensioning?


With the tensioner on the car it's difficult to see the auxilliary belt tensioner locking hole.



 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the pics, much appreciated.

I don't have A/C and according to the Haynes book, the tension can only be accurately set using Renault tool Mot. 1273 (Seem C. Tronic 105.6)

Whatever that is or looks like :d

The tensioner on the engine with A/C can be moved and locked in position with an allen key.
But on mine I have to loosen the locknut and back off the tensioner adjustment bolt to remove the belt from the pulleys.

Don't have a problem with that part.

I do have a problem with the next bit.

Fit new belt, slacken the tensioner mounting bolts and the adjuster bolt locknut. Turn the adjuster bolt to achieve the correct tension of 108 plus over minus 6 SEEM units for the drivebelt. :crazy:

Or does this all translate to - fit new belt, tighten, but not too much, if it squeals, tighten a bit more :d
 
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Or does this all translate to - fit new belt, tighten, but not too much, if it squeals, tighten a bit more :d
That's about right i'd say :d

As rough rule of thumb as long as you can twist the belt up to °45 with your fingers you should okay as thats about as much as I can twist the auxilliary belt on a Scenic with an automatic tensioner.

Neither do you want it to tight as all it will do is stretch the belt and put undue pressure on the alternator and any other bearings the belt runs round.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Neither do you want it to tight as all it will do is stretch the belt and put undue pressure on the alternator and any other bearings the belt runs round.
Yeah, that's my main concern.
I've sprayed the belt with silicone spray (I know some don't agree with this) and it has sweetened up the odd noises from it.
It wasn't squealing, but rather had a loud, almost electric motor sound coming from it, which would die away when I turned the steering, or sometimes put the lights on. Only seemed to do it with a hot engine. (probably a sign of something nasty coming soon)

I'm trying to fund having a new cam belt kit and water pump fitted, so I may leave it till then and get the lot done.

Thanks again.
 
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