yeap would check the 5 amp fuse
well no I would replace the 5amp fuse, has have known these go open circuit when they get hot

 

yeap would check the 5 amp fuse
well no I would replace the 5amp fuse, has have known these go open circuit when they get hot

Ok thanks , I'll replace that and see how it goes.
Is it possible I can remove this bit to improve access?

 

Nope , or You can get it slightly up,
Its ECU out, ( Should just PULL UP ( Really hard to pull up with its casing) but it does come up)
then battery cage off, just enough room then to get inside fusebox ,
what fuse it is no idea

And no member has shown where the fuse is fitted, MAYBE you will be the First and then we can keep showing your post for other members

 

Yeah I'm not sure what size it is (full or micro), just know it's 5amp. Guess I'll buy a few of each.
I'll report back. Thanks for your help.

 

Off top of my head, it's a micro (they share parts with Scenic 3s). Be aware that you have smart charging so diagnosing with a multimeter is pretty much impossible... I'm still chasing a similar charging fault on my car!

 

Ok thanks for the tip

 

Hi, Certainly worth checking the fuse if it is rerorted to be an issue. But if no joy then have a look at Autoelectro website - they have an article on Smart Alternators which have characteristics making fault finding on charging circuits a bit more complex than the old fixed output alternators. The output of these is controlled by the ECU signal which if tested on the vehicle needs to be taken into account. They have been around for a while, but the technology has been somewhat slower to gain awareness in the field and led to many unnecessaty alternator replacements.
Pete

 

Update,

After a bit of a struggle and moving the hose out of the way

, I managed to change the fuse (which is a micro fuse) but unfortunately the fault persists.

Checked the voltage going to the red wire that goes to the sensor on the negative battery terminal and that matches the battery voltage (14.3 volts with the engine running).
Is it possible that the sensor is faulty and is it possible to test this for continuity?

 

Yeah, that's not going to get dirty, or wet, or knocked out of its slot at all.
What a stupid place to put a fuse!

 

Any ideas on this please guys ? This was the codes that my mechanic sent to his friend who is an auto electrician and his response, but he can't look at it for a few weeks yet though.
Where would I find the cluster that's spoken of?
I'm not scared of having a go myself (refrigerator repair man) but just wondering where to look.

Many thanks in advance

 

DONT . you will need to take instrument cluster out ,
Then what are you going to do


What wire from the fusebox is the wire you are after


Am going to say now, the Alternator you have is either the wrong 1 fitted or its Faulty
Am going to say its the wrong 1 and you will end up going to Renault and getting a Genuine
AND hate saying this , but you will not be the first on here, and you wont be the last

Your Original was ONLY noisy , BUT it was working and electrics were ok

 

The original was noisy but then failed on the way home from work, in a big way.

I'll speak to the mechanic about it all.

Many thanks for your help

 

Check the thin wire connector (not the big red one!) to the alternator, this is this data cable. Is it correctly clipped onto alternator, do the wire(s) look in good condition?

 

having a similar problem any idea where that data cable from the alternator goes?

 

I believe it goes from alternator to the engine fuse box - potentially to the famous 5A fuse.