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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Morning

I've had car into a local garage who couldn't resolve the issue. I've had a browse through this forum but can't seem to find anything.
I am personally not car smart with faults or repairs, I would have to ask a friend or take a garage for any work required.


Vehicle:
Renault Megane 2011 MK III 1.6 16V
Dynamique Tom Tom
61,000 miles


Problem - My dash is intermittently flashing Battery Charging Fault, ABS light, and STOP.
Video: https://youtu.be/sY_WqNxPWXk


Background-
Car sat for a week in an airport car park while on holiday, when I returned the orange service light was illuminated.
Few days later this changed to a beeping alarm with BATTERY CHARGING FAULT and STOP light.
The mechanic changed the battery as it was overcharging.
Fault was still there so he changed the alternator.
Fault was still there with the new alternator.


My old alternator got sent for testing and no fault found so it got refitted.


So to date I have paid for a new battery, belt and labour with the mechanic not having a clue what is wrong.


He let me drive it away with the understanding it was a loose connection / wiring fault but now I am not getting any hot air from my fans, so I have not moved my car from before Christmas.
(Driving my girlfriends baby blue fiat 500 - not ideal!)


Someone has told me to change the regulator on the alternator, but had a look online for a mkIII alternator regulator and couldn't find anything. I think the regulator is contained within.


Looking for advice on my next steps please.
Anything short of taking it to the Renault garage for fault finding with a blank cheque would be a brilliant.





Thanks
Craig
 

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Does this vehicle have auto Stop Start ?
Where the engine stops & restarts when clutch operated.
So equipped cars need the car to be told it has a new battery using diagnostics.
Similarly diagnostics will be required to identify the cause of the ABS nag.
How good is your Mechanic? Renaults get arsy if the battery is not disconnected in the correct manner.
Try this.....
Bonnet up, drivers window open, Keycard out as if leaving car, shut door, DO NOT LOCK, wait 5 Minutes until computers have gone to sleep.
Ensure you have radio code. Disconnect battery Negative. wait 5, reconnect. No cost check, innit?
Report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Responses in red.


Does this vehicle have auto Stop Start ?
No Stop/Start function
Where the engine stops & restarts when clutch operated.
So equipped cars need the car to be told it has a new battery using diagnostics.
Similarly diagnostics will be required to identify the cause of the ABS nag.
How good is your Mechanic?
Runs his own small garage alone, has done for years
Renaults get arsy if the battery is not disconnected in the correct manner.
Try this.....
Bonnet up, drivers window open, Keycard out as if leaving car, shut door, DO NOT LOCK, wait 5 Minutes until computers have gone to sleep.
Ensure you have radio code. Disconnect battery Negative. wait 5, reconnect. No cost check, innit?
Report back.
Can try this tonight. Am I just checking to see if fault is still active?
 

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1) Good
2) Seems this one has stumped him.
3) Worth a quick "reboot" as with all the disturbance, the computers may benefit from a reset.

Once tried, I'll tell you how to reset your windows. :smile2:
 

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This still sounds like battery is not charged properly, starting with it being left in a airport car park for a week.

Low battery charge can also trigger an ABS error by itself because battery power is needed to work the ABS pump, not enough 'juice' = no ABS.

A new battery should be given a preliminary charge before installing, despite being 'new'.

Don't know why heater won't now work, suggests mechanic has c0cked something else up during previous work. He doesn't really seem to know what he's doing. But you not driving it around still means it's not getting charged. Any chance of putting a battery charger on it? Then see what it does.

You say belt was changed? If so was water pump also changed, if yes, means needed new coolant, and if not refilled properly air locks may result which could explain why heater doesn't now work, it's no getting any hot water.

Also possible - bad cables / connections between alternator and battery, bad earth cables between body and engine / gearbox.


.
 

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1) Good
2) Seems this one has stumped him.
3) Worth a quick "reboot" as with all the disturbance, the computers may benefit from a reset.

Once tried, I'll tell you how to reset your windows. :smile2:
Halfords Thetford way did this to my scenic, put a battery on and triggered no end of faults on dash - so previous owner sold it (very cheaply) to me with 11 and half months MOT, drove it sisters and reset all faults with my ODBII tool!

Back to OP I'm thinking fuse blown when battery fitted or wires left off / or trapped also.
 

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This still sounds like battery is not charged properly, starting with it being left in a airport car park for a week.

Low battery charge can also trigger an ABS error by itself because battery power is needed to work the ABS pump, not enough 'juice' = no ABS.

A new battery should be given a preliminary charge before installing, despite being 'new'.

Don't know why heater won't now work, suggests mechanic has c0cked something else up during previous work. He doesn't really seem to know what he's doing. But you not driving it around still means it's not getting charged. Any chance of putting a battery charger on it? Then see what it does.

You say belt was changed? If so was water pump also changed, if yes, means needed new coolant, and if not refilled properly air locks may result which could explain why heater doesn't now work, it's no getting any hot water.

Also possible - bad cables / connections between alternator and battery, bad earth cables between body and engine / gearbox.
.
When OP said belt was changed, I Assumed Aux Belt not Cam, this needs clarification.
Halfords Thetford way did this to my scenic, put a battery on and triggered no end of faults on dash - so previous owner sold it (very cheaply) to me with 11 and half months MOT, drove it sisters and reset all faults with my ODBII tool!

Back to OP I'm thinking fuse blown when battery fitted or wires left off / or trapped also.
Tend to agree, reckoning that, "sort the charge, rest will follow". Heater cold, could be just not run long enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Just give you all an update as the issue has been resolved.


I changed the regulator on my alternator and the issue is no more.
£35 or so from ebay done the trick.
Managed to change with removing the alternator too!


Heater was blowing cold as there was no coolant in the tank.
Thanks folks
 

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Glad it's sorted & not too expensive.
Keep an eye on the water, gotta be going somewhere.
 

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I've got this exact fault - "battery charging fault - STOP"
Tested at 12.4v engine off and 14.4v engine on. It actually didnt do it when I used it briefly last night then did shortly after.

I have a new regulator at home to try. So I can plan my weekend, is this a quick swap or should I budget some time?

I'm not a mechanic but happy taking on pretty substantial jobs - done alternators in the past.
 

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Hi Matt

It would be better, even though you are having the same problem, to start your own thread, your problem may have a slightly different fault and therefore outcome and if two or three problems are solved in one thread it will cause the search system a few nightmares :grin2:
 

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Seems like it's the exact same problem so didn't really want to increase traffic. I was hoping the OP would see this and reply.

There's another thread in here on the fitment of the regulator but no ones has replied in 3 years. Guessing it's not excessively active here?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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No its a pretty quite Forum really..:grin2:

But starting your own thread, tends to give you more pointers..:wink2:
 

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Well I just spent an hour swapping the regulators over. Fired it up to find it's worse!
It was over 14v with the engine running before and now under 12!

Gonna swap it back for now and see if it goes back to 14 again.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Right regulator. should not be on 14 volts where have you got 14 volts from, its a 12 volt system.
Is this with all the lights and heaters on, that its 12 volts, or what..
 

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14v with the engine running is normal. It was actually down to about 11.8v
I don't like giving up so spent another hour swapping between old and new a bit and they're now both at under 12v engine running although at one point it was back to 13.98v again

Guess the alternator is the only other thing it can be. Anyone got a guide to replacing one on a 1.6 petrol?
 

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No its not,, where have you found this from..

Think you have read it wrong somewhere along the lines..
Your battery would not last very long, you would start spiking different transistors,,
I would be very worried if I went to a car and the reading was 14 volts on idle,
Would not put any of my interfaces on them ,
Its a MAX of 14.4 volts, when all electrics on,, Your alternator will be running at 100% at all times,, that would not last very long,,
 

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