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That's your anti roll bar link rod and where it connects to your shock absorber the weld has come apart. If the anti roll bar ball joints are good then a new shock absorber, however shocks should be replaced in pairs on an axle
 

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Clio Mk IV 1.5 dCi MediaNav S/S 2013
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Looks more like a track rod end to me.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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New shocker
Look at the anti roll bar link arm
See the nut, behind the nut is a piece of metal, this metal is part of the shocker, and this part has sheared off

190623




190624
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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I had to look a few times to make out if I had seen it right.
Strange how thats happened mind.
Good thing shockers are NOW cheap ( Not very good, but cheap lol )
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry everyone just finished work...its a renault scenic front nearside....I guessed the bracket had sheered off but someone thought it was the drop link?
 

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Yes, it's where the drop link attaches to the shock absorber (strut/damper). I wonder if it can be welded back on?
Here's mine on the Clio, pictures taken when I replaced the drop link:-
190636

190635
 

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Scenic II, 2004, K4MW761, DPO
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@ClioAutomatic - I'm sure the welding itself is possible but reckon you are going to possibly damage seals, oil and distort that shock tube ............... I wouldn't do it
 

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Swap the shocks either side. The shocks aren't sided. Both shocks would of had a bracket either side of it to accommodate the drop link for the side it's situated on. I don't recommend this, but it's something that can be done. Depends on which side of the bracket snapped though.

Yes, it's where the drop link attaches to the shock absorber (strut/damper). I wonder if it can be welded back on?
Here's mine on the Clio, pictures taken when I replaced the drop link:- View attachment 190636
View attachment 190635
Is your control arm jacked up here, or is it in it's natural position? Reason I'm asking is because if that's the natural position, I may of just found the reason for my clunking noise. I've been thinking it's my struts and top mounts. But it could be the control arm hitting the ARB.
 

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Is your control arm jacked up here, or is it in it's natural position? Reason I'm asking is because if that's the natural position, I may of just found the reason for my clunking noise. I've been thinking it's my struts and top mounts. But it could be the control arm hitting the ARB.
For my picture I had the wheel off and an axle stand under the front jacking point on the sill.
The ARB and control arm should maintain a separation if the link is working correctly.
 

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For my picture I had the wheel off and an axle stand under the front jacking point on the sill.
The ARB and control arm should maintain a separation if the link is working correctly.
I found my problem I think. Tested literally everything I could in the suspension area. The problem is definitely from the top mounting area. U realised that the SFK mounts and bearing allow room for play between the plastic bearing casing and the under side of the metal mounting plate. So to remedy this, I did what Renault have done on their factory mounts that I have here still. I placed some rubber sealant around the metal bushing plate. So now that play is cushioned by the rubber insulation. I've also added an extra washer where the inner washer for the bushing meats the strut tower base it sits on. This as taken up 0.3mm of space that was measured as a gap between the strut top bushing and the turret tower chassis. This was measured while the car was still on its wheels and under full tension.

I'm just getting the OSF front shock fitted back into that car.

There's one thing I simply just can't get me head over. The workshop manual says 62nm for the top 3 bolts, that holds the shock in place to the turret. The most I can get out of the bolts is 48nm. That's as far as I would like to go as I feel like the bolts and thread will strip if I tighten ant further. The bottom 2 bolts that hold the shock leg to the knuckle is 105nm. That's easily achieved.

So I have no idea what's different about about SFK mounts in comparison to the OEM ones. Threads look identical.

The only reason I'm changing them over is because the factory bearings sh.it the bed. I can also confirm, my wish bone has good clearance between the ARB and the arm. So all good there.

I've checked,

  • Bottom ball joints
  • inner and outer track rods
  • drop links and ARB
  • manually lifted the wish bones up and down - no creaking

The steering rack - no play.

So the clunking has to come from the shock assembly. I just hope by me adding rubber insulation and a washer. It stops the clunking over bumps.
 
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