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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking at changing the brake pads myself front and back on my megane MK3 1.6 petrol. I found the following youtube video:


Is this the correct procedure to change the pads? in the video the person applies grease only on the top and bottom tips of the pad, is this normal? you dont need any grease on the back of the pad itself?

Also, does the caliper slider pin need to be removed and regreased or anything? Is the rear change different?
 

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Hmmm
Not the way I would do it but cannot see anything dramatic wrong...maybe it's me being awkward.

I would never jack any car on the cill like that even with the wood to spread the load.
Get onto a suspension hard point or chassis rail...if the latter, wood to spread the load.

I may lever pads/caliper/piston back a little before opening the beasty up but all the way?
School of thought that says open the bleed nipple before pushing piston back..saves fluid being pushed back through ABS unit which some reckon can cause issues.

Slide pins, I always clean and grease...white lithium grease IIRC.

Pads may need tickling with a file to remove blobs of paint or burr on the ears... and check moving easily, if they jam new they will jam in use.... copper slip does no harm there.

Grease (copper slip) on the back? To me it does no harm but some reckon it can promote squealing.
These days I fit dry, can always go back and grease later.

My calipers on Scenic were not the same as those so be prepared if slightly different.

Rears will be similar but--------
Handbrake off so chock front wheels and in gear.
Rear pistons MUST be screwed back in, not pushed.

If only doing pads but not discs, remember that they need to bed in...you will not have same braking force and may experience brake fade until they do....take it gentle.

And his brake fluid needs changing.
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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Hmmm
Not the way I would do it but cannot see anything dramatic wrong...maybe it's me being awkward.

I would never jack any car on the cill like that even with the wood to spread the load.
Get onto a suspension hard point or chassis rail...if the latter, wood to spread the load.

I may lever pads/caliper/piston back a little before opening the beasty up but all the way?
School of thought that says open the bleed nipple before pushing piston back..saves fluid being pushed back through ABS unit which some reckon can cause issues.

Slide pins, I always clean and grease...white lithium grease IIRC.

Pads may need tickling with a file to remove blobs of paint or burr on the ears... and check moving easily, if they jam new they will jam in use.... copper slip does no harm there.

Grease (copper slip) on the back? To me it does no harm but some reckon it can promote squealing.
These days I fit dry, can always go back and grease later.

My calipers on Scenic were not the same as those so be prepared if slightly different.

Rears will be similar but--------
Handbrake off so chock front wheels and in gear.
Rear pistons MUST be screwed back in, not pushed.

If only doing pads but not discs, remember that they need to bed in...you will not have same braking force and may experience brake fade until they do....take it gentle.

And his brake fluid needs changing.
Yes thats pretty much the way I do it.just a few things differently like i dont use copper grease but proper brake grease and do put some on the back of the pads and on the ears of the pads ..clean sliders and again use brake grease to lube also take out the metal plates that the ears of the pads sit in and give them a good clean along with the groove they sit ..have seen many times dirt build up in those which will hinder movement of the pads ..won't use copper grease on calipers cos it can rot rubber seals..
 

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also take out the metal plates that the ears of the pads sit in and give them a good clean along with the groove they sit ..have seen many times dirt build up in those which will hinder movement of the pads
To be fair to the guy in the video...didn't see any of them and he did clean out the grooves.
But, yes, if them nice little stainless clips are there, clean... brake cleaner and a piece of rag usually enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies.

I would never jack any car on the cill like that even with the wood to spread the load.
Get onto a suspension hard point or chassis rail...if the latter, wood to spread the load.
I don't like the idea of jacking up on the cills with wood either. I have a basic 2tonne trolley jack, where exactly can I position it for the front wheel and the back wheel to lift the car and I also have the following pictured axle stands. Once lifted where can I place this? I can't place it by the slot designed for the scissor jack because that has a little groove and the axle stand is like flat U shape like





School of thought that says open the bleed nipple before pushing piston back..saves fluid being pushed back through ABS unit which some reckon can cause issues.
So instead of opening the reservoir bottle lid, open the bleed nipple and then push the piston back using the old pads? that will mean fluid will leak out of the bleed nipple no? but will air not get back in to the system? like as you are pushing it the fluid will come out but then as you stop will it not create a syphon an air gets in?

Handbrake off so chock front wheels and in gear.
How comes handbrake off? I was under the impression handbrake off for disc changing, but if it's just the pad then do I need to do handbrake off too?

Rear pistons MUST be screwed back in, not pushed.
Is there some kind of retracting screw built in for this?


Finally, i'm just looking around at brake discs to buy for front and back. Mine's dont need changing yet but just looking. The front seem to be readily available on eurocarparts etc. But the rear doesn't. Is the rear brake disc different? Does it have something integrated into it?

Thank you again
 

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Jacking... I usually look for a point where suspension or subframe bolts to something else...you know that it is reinforced there so no worried about finding a bit of tin that bends.
On yours dunno but I suspect if you look underneath in line with the jacking point, you will find where the subframe bolts to the bodyshell.... there's good and usually close enough to fresh air for the trolley jack to reach.
Axle stands, on that jack point should be okay, stick a piece of 2x2 on the top so the Cill form sinks into it a little, you can get hard rubber pads for that if you feel flash. Make sure jack position allows axle stand in.
Or look under again and find another solid bit of subframe for the stand which I tend to do.... as someone who worked on cars in the 70s and saw many a cill collapse, I avoid. Modern cars are a lot better though.
Rear...jack on the rear beam out by the wheels, whre the shocks mount usually reinforced. Axle stand next door.
Don't jack or support in centre of beam, they can and do bend.

So instead of opening the reservoir bottle lid, open the bleed nipple and then push the piston back using the old pads?
Open the bottle anyway.
Yes that's it. Get set up ready to push the piston back... old pad and G clamp
Open the nipple, push back, bit of rag to catch fluid or a pipe and a jar.
When piston back, close nipple and then unclamp the old pad.
Won't get air in that way.
How comes handbrake off? I was under the impression handbrake off for disc changing, but if it's just the pad then do I need to do handbrake off too?
Yes... otherwise handbrake is pushing pads hard onto the disc.

Rear pistons have slots in them.... tool engages with them and allows you to turn and push
These work though there are far more sophisticated available that push while they turn

Discs.... Rear may have rear wheel bearings in them, would have to check.
If you do change them, get ones with the bearing already fitted.

ECP ..... Friends don't let mates use ECP own make "Einhell??" brake pads.... cr4p
I use Ferrodo these days but others will have their own preferences
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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I do jack on a cill if its strong enough ..I bought some hockey pucks and cut a slit in them to fit the cill snuggly and place those on the trolly jack.. and I feel confident its sound enough and wont crumble..once the wheel is off the ground tho I do find a stronger place to put an axle stand and lower the car to that..as for brake parts I have just two favorites ..EBC and blueprint..done me well over the years so no need to change those..Check them out..
 

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Note the one thing the guy did in the video...brownie points for this.
When wheel came off he sticks it under the cill.
Good habit to get into.
If the car does fall, it lands on the wheel, not your legs or arm or head.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you

Rear pistons have slots in them.... tool engages with them and allows you to turn and push
These work though there are far more sophisticated available that push while they turn
So I need to use this tool to get the rear brake piston to retract? there is no way to do it without a tool? I was planning to change the pads over the weekend and it wont arrive on time from ebay. What about the Following item?


Discs.... Rear may have rear wheel bearings in them, would have to check. If you do change them, get ones with the bearing already fitted.
Just had a look at renault parts direct for the rear discs and the rear discs more expensive than the front and look like the following picture, so it does look like they come with bearings. Is it only the rear discs that have bearings on them? does that mean there is no bearings on the hub? I've worked mainly on japanese cars and rear discs have been similar to front and not bearings etc. I am assuming the bearings will be already fitted so just put the new discs in and nothing is needed to be done extra?

 

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That cube from halfords is similar to the ebay one I pointed to, will do it.
People have used pliers, screwdrivers etc to turn the piston, I made a driver from an old brass plumbing fitting.
But those cubes work and are universal. Turn clockwise on both sides, as though screwing a bolt in.

Them discs have bearings pre-fitted...it's remove old and put the new on.
Renew the hub nut, one time use only and an impact driver helps, the hub nuts are tight, would have to check the torgue but 250nm plus would be the right sort of order.
Fronts probably have the bearing in the hub so the disc is a plain "plate" that fits to the hub, usually a couple of countersunk crossheads or Torx.
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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Thank you



So I need to use this tool to get the rear brake piston to retract? there is no way to do it without a tool? I was planning to change the pads over the weekend and it wont arrive on time from ebay. What about the Following item?




Just had a look at renault parts direct for the rear discs and the rear discs more expensive than the front and look like the following picture, so it does look like they come with bearings. Is it only the rear discs that have bearings on them? does that mean there is no bearings on the hub? I've worked mainly on japanese cars and rear discs have been similar to front and not bearings etc. I am assuming the bearings will be already fitted so just put the new discs in and nothing is needed to be done extra?

Rear discs incorporate the hub and bearings..front ones dont..you will need a tool to wind back the pistons in the calipers..you would probably get away with one of these is you have plenty of strength in your arms..
A windback cube as Dd has quoted..


wrong photo was inserted that was for another place lol
 

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you would probably get away with one of these is you have plenty of strength in your arms..
I never found it that hard (ooh matron)
As long as got a firm grip on the caliper and push while turning, they usually go straight in.
A quirt of WD under the rubber piston gaitor helps
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Your getting as bad as Spacey you are..:oops:
:D:D:D

just measured my front and rear discs. The OEM spec says front minimum is 21.8 and mines is at 22.5 and my rear the minimum says 7mm and mine is at 7.2mm. But my pads are worn. The discs can wait for changing right? I'm thinking just to change pads for now and then maybe in summer change the discs as I only do about 4 to 5k a year
 

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Pays your money, takes your choice.
With disc and pad material these days, general thought is that by the time pads wear out, discs will be at or below maker's minimum spec.
So should be changed.
Garages invariably change as a full set now, discs and pads.
It makes more money and means that new kit beds in quickly.
And avoids potential law suits cos someone has a smash and blames the garage for not fitting new discs.

I tend to work on visual clues, never measured a disc in my life.
How big is the lip that hasn't been worn, couple of mil is fine IMO
Any severe scoring, pitting, cracks, distortion, uneven wear?
All reasons to change the discs and IMO far more pressing then a notional Maker's spec.
And if they look okay, leave them be.
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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:D:D:D

just measured my front and rear discs. The OEM spec says front minimum is 21.8 and mines is at 22.5 and my rear the minimum says 7mm and mine is at 7.2mm. But my pads are worn. The discs can wait for changing right? I'm thinking just to change pads for now and then maybe in summer change the discs as I only do about 4 to 5k a year
So they fall within tolerance so I would let them be..😉 just change the pads..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thank you.

I came across another video below showing how to change rear pads and discs on megane 2 and 3. Does this video look about right?

 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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PERFIK.. 😁 only thing I would do differently is don't use copper grease on the rear pad because it can rot out rubber seals..(y) have you got a torque wrench ? dont like the way garages use air guns on hub nuts and the like..
 

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dont like the way garages use air guns on hub nuts and the like..
Get ya glasses on, mechanic uses an air gun to drive the hub nut in but then uses a torque wrench for final tightening.
Even sets the value to 280nm.
Impact guns are wonderful on undoing this sort of hub nut.... investment for the future or put one on the list to Santa.
Uses a proper wind back tool so you can see what one of them looks like...right hand thread for Renault.
Brownie points for pumping the pedal to bring pads forward.
Black mark for not showing handbrake off or check on that when job complete.... or the cables/attachement
And for not checking fluid level or removing the cap.
But you aint gonna go far wrong following that video.
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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Get ya glasses on, mechanic uses an air gun to drive the hub nut in but then uses a torque wrench for final tightening.
Even sets the value to 280nm.
Impact guns are wonderful on undoing this sort of hub nut.... investment for the future or put one on the list to Santa.
Uses a proper wind back tool so you can see what one of them looks like...right hand thread for Renault.
Brownie points for pumping the pedal to bring pads forward.
Black mark for not showing handbrake off or check on that when job complete.... or the cables/attachement
And for not checking fluid level or removing the cap.
But you aint gonna go far wrong following that video.
Seen one on you tube just use the gun..bang wallop sorted..bet a lot of garage do that..what the customer doesnt see wont hurt them..

180095
 
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