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2011 Scenic 1.5dci 6 speed
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. I wonder if you can help.
I’ve searched the forums but there’s nothing that really fits my issue.

I have a 2011(11 plate) Renault scenic 1.5dci.

I noticed the reverse light wasn’t working. So I checked the light fitting and noticed it was heavily corroded. Checked it with a multi meter and it’s totally dead.
I’ve also got a check parking break message, yet it’s all functioning correctly. The only thing that isnt working is starting the car with with the brake pedal pressed.

I only got the check parking brake message when the reverse light went.

and thirdly… I had an awful lot of water in both food wells, I’ve cleaned the scuttle drains etc and I’ve also removed all the footwell carpets etc dried out and luckily there wasn’t one connection or anything sat in water, all of the wiring was above the water level, I’ve also checked every fuse in both glovebox and engine bay and all is ok.
Ive also checked all of the sensors on the clutch, and the brake sensor, all seem ok to me and all have readings on multimeter.

so my question is… is it possible that the parking brake message and reverse light are related to the bulb holder being duff? Or am I just guessing?

sorry if I seem to have just babbled all that out, but I’ve spent all day literally stripping the car and drying it and checking everything and just can’t see anything wrong?? Or is it unrelated?

any advice?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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how many wires on your brake switch
two allow engine to start when pedal is pressed two are for brake lights .. ( That fault sounds like a duff brake switch, )
Reverse light, when you put it in reverse, the switch on the SIDE of the gearbox, just behind the inner wing guard passenger side just makes a contact to allow a circuit .
Has this been checked..
Its put it in reverse disconnect plug and with Ohms meter see if the switch itself is giving a reading

.
 

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2011 Scenic 1.5dci 6 speed
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for replying.

I checked the brake switch and seems ok, but wonder if it’s worth replacing it? Would that cause “check parking brake”?

I haven’t checked the reverse switch no, I’ve only just found out where it is. I just didn’t know if it’s all related or multiple separate issues.

mat first I thought the water had caused the issue, but it doesn’t seem to have been the issue.
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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Generally, if the reverse switch is not working, the EPB will not auto release in reverse.
I've got a vague memory of it throwing up a Parking Brake error on the Mk2s as well but it is a vague memory that could be wrong.
Clutch switches (top one) will throw up that error.
As will an actual error....have you checked that EPB is applying on both sides?
 

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You say the reversing light was heavily corroded, was there corrosion on the plug and did you check as close as you could to the actual wire the voltage going into the plug, (on the wire which connects to the bulb centre pin) to chassis known good "earth" point? If there was corrosion the wiring into the plug may be knackered.(for want of a better word)
Re the reversing switch, alternative method (mirror may come in handy) if there is 1 wire on the switch connect it to earth and see if the light comes on or if two wires take connector off and bridge the two (or use resistance as described by ours2012).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Generally, if the reverse switch is not working, the EPB will not auto release in reverse.
I've got a vague memory of it throwing up a Parking Brake error on the Mk2s as well but it is a vague memory that could be wrong.
Clutch switches (top one) will throw up that error.
As will an actual error....have you checked that EPB is applying on both sides?
the odd thing is… the epb works as it should.. even in reverse it automatically releases.. it’s like there isn’t actually a problem.?
 

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Super Moderator Technical Supremo Platinum Member
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the odd thing is… the epb works as it should.. even in reverse it automatically releases.. it’s like there isn’t actually a problem.?
Vehicle thinks there is a problem..... it may be wrong and clearing the fault with suitable diagnostics (that talks Renault and can access the EPB) may clear it, never to appear again... and vehicle may be right.

Have you checked both wheels are locking with the EPB? Not just that the parking brake seems to be holding okay but that the calipers are actually working?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the advice. I’ll give them a try today.

I just find it odd that all 3 issues happened at the same time when reversing light stopped working.

am I right in saying on the 2011 the reverse light doesn’t have a fuse it’s powered through the uch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Vehicle thinks there is a problem..... it may be wrong and clearing the fault with suitable diagnostics (that talks Renault and can access the EPB) may clear it, never to appear again... and vehicle may be right.

Have you checked both wheels are locking with the EPB? Not just that the parking brake seems to be holding okay but that the calipers are actually working?
How would I check that?
 

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It (reversing light) still has a fuse (everything has a fuse) - it isn't powered by the uch, the uch is a logic module which decides what should and shouldn't work depending on what conditions it sees.
You would need to jack up each rear wheel in turn and see if when the epb is applied it locks the wheel or if you can get some assistance and you can see through the wheels (torch required unless you have very good eyes) have someone look carefully at the caliper and see if it operates when the epb is applied (although that won't tell you if the wheel is locked but it will tell you if the caliper is operating).
Is the reversing light working now?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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The Reverse Light has a relay, and this relay is powered by fuse 17 in the under bonnet fusebox
Check the revers switch first, see if its ok
These do fail, the tip wears away, so when reverse is selected the plunger does not make a circuit when its pressed, as it wont go far enough up into the switch
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The Reverse Light has a relay, and this relay is powered by fuse 17 in the under bonnet fusebox
Check the revers switch first, see if its ok
These do fail, the tip wears away, so when reverse is selected the plunger does not make a circuit when its pressed, as it wont go far enough up into the switch
Thanks for this. How do I know which is fuse 17? I can’t find a fuse diagram.

apart from bridging, if I remove the switch will gearbox oil come out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It (reversing light) still has a fuse (everything has a fuse) - it isn't powered by the uch, the uch is a logic module which decides what should and shouldn't work depending on what conditions it sees.
You would need to jack up each rear wheel in turn and see if when the epb is applied it locks the wheel or if you can get some assistance and you can see through the wheels (torch required unless you have very good eyes) have someone look carefully at the caliper and see if it operates when the epb is applied (although that won't tell you if the wheel is locked but it will tell you if the caliper is operating).
Is the reversing light working now?
No the reverse light still isn’t working.

move bought a new bulb holder and works fine(tested on fog light so I know it works.

so my issue now is the check parking brake and reverse light.

must been absolutely peeing it down today so not able to check
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just want to give an update on the situation and possibly see if I can get any more advice?

the garage plugged it into their computer. They said it was the blue switch on clutch.
I bought all 3 switches just as a precautionary and replaced.

this issue is still there. Can’t start car with brake and ‘check parking brake’ is still there. I’m going to check the callipers later today but the garage are saying it has to be a wiring issue as nothing is coming up saying otherwise.

could it be a wiring issue?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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deffo a wiring, or switch issue .
wont be caliper.
 

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The diagnostic picked up the clutch switch so it would be logical to check the continuity of the wiring from that switch to wherever it goes. (and possibly beyond). If there are connectors in circuit I'd check those very carefully for corrosion including (especially) the connector that plugs into the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The diagnostic picked up the clutch switch so it would be logical to check the continuity of the wiring from that switch to wherever it goes. (and possibly beyond). If there are connectors in circuit I'd check those very carefully for corrosion including (especially) the connector that plugs into the switch.
Thanks @wozz, the continuity test is my next step. Just need to find the other end of the cable!
 

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I forgot to ask did you actually check any of the old switches after you replaced them (or better still before you replaced them)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I forgot to ask did you actually check any of the old switches after you replaced them (or better still before you replaced them)?
I did yeh.
The blue switch wasn’t giving a reading at all. the others were fine but I replaced them just on the safe side.
 
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