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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Clio 1.2 16v Dynamique and yesterday whilst travelling on an A road @ 70mph, the revs shot up an additional 2k to maitain the same speed, then not long after that I lost power to the wheels completely. I managed to limp it to a layby, lucky there was one just ahead, and called for a tow.

With the engine off I can select every gear without using the clutch pedal, with no grinding. It feels like I have the clutch pedal pressed when using the gearstick.

The clutch pedal is an inch or so higher than the break pedal, but i'm not sure if that was the case before this to be honest.

When this first happend, and still in the layby, there was a big smell of burning.

Would you say this will be a replacement clutch needed and that should be job done, or hopefully something even simplar?
 

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As a precaution and before condemning the clutch check the driveshafts at the gearbox. A known weakness on the Clio box. If there is problems in that aspect in most cases it can be repaired in situ.,.

This may not be your problem but worth checking as it's normally a cheaper repair than a new clutch.

The burning smell does sound like a failed clutch though.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi. I've ordered a Jack and some axle stands to get under there properly. But i've had a quick look, and the driveshaft on the passenger side shows signs of oil - I think it's been seeping out of the boot by the looks of it.

Also, if I tug on the driveshaft on the left side, it moves a little. But, a quote from the Haynes manuals says....

On the left-hand side, the driveshaft also engages with a tripod joint, but the yoke in which the tripod joint is free to slide is an integral part of the differential side gear.
... i'm not sure if that means this side should be able to move a little when grabbed and rocked?

Does this sound like my problem is the driveshaft rather than clutch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi. Please help.

I'm try to get the driveshaft out of the hub. I'm using a Laser Universal Hub Puller, from Halfords. The hub keeps turning so it's really difficult to get leverage.

Thanks.
 

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When new the splined end of the driveshaft is fitted using a thread-lock compound.

To stop the hub turning slide a strong metal bar through one of the wheel bolt holes - rotate the hub until it locks - just make sure you don't foul any brake pipes or such.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi. I'll see if I have any metal bars which will fit through the holes. Fingers crossed.

I'll probably just take the driveshaft out with the whole swivel hub though... i've almost broken my arm try to remove this thing so far. It really aches just typing this.

Many thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Bloody hell. This is taking the p1$$ now. I can't "lever the balljoint out of the swivel hub" as the Haynes manual advises. I have removed the clamp bolt though.

This is a nightmare. There is nothing to "lever" against. I'm failing this :-( Any advice?
 

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I've got to be honest,if you can't remove the wishbone joint from the hub then your barking up the wrong tree.I know you're trying to save yourself a few quid by doing it yourself but it really sounds like you're out of your depth.

I'm all for people having a go,but the real nightmares of the job still await and you haven't even got the driveshafts out yet......

Sorry,but at least I'm honest.:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I almost agree with you Lagdti. But i'm not ready to give up yet. There are silly things holding this up, and I think I post too soon sometimes. I will need to take the swivel hub off to remove this driveshaft, and searching the Internet shows this isn't too uncommon. I've read another guy having a similar problem, and finding a solution by removing two bolts under the wishbone which hold the ball joint, not advised in the manual, but now looking seems an obvious thing, so that's what i'll do. If I struggle with that, then I think i'll get some help from someone, as then it really would be getting daft :)

Let's face it, the Haynes manual says if the driveshaft is stiff, a tap with the hammer will release it, and lever the ball joint out if removing the swivel hub, when there is no leverage. I'm stubborn and realising the manual is making out like i'll have the ideal car.

It's a learning process here too... i'm in it for the long haul. ;) If you want parts from a car which I can't put back together afterwards, we'll have to hook up a deal :toast:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The bolts holding the balljoint to the wishbone were awkward, but they are off, and now the driveshaft with the hub is off. I wish i'd done that to start with, but now I know :)

I'll work on the bench and vice to get the driveshaft out.

I still appreciate all the help though guys. t'internet is a truely remarkable place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Clio, Lowering Subframe

Hi. I need to lower the subframe on our Clio 1.2 16v. I have undone the support brackets, removed the mounting screws (had a real pain with one of them as the clamp thing holding the bolt to the main frame broke... not a nice experience).

I have the subframe supported by a trolley jack and a bit of wood... in fact, a trolley jack with wood on both the left and right sides to be safe.

I see the front of the subframe is connected to the radiator, and the Haynes manual for the radiator says these should just pop out.

So, what about the subframe itself? The manual says it should just lower, but it doesn't, it still sits there apparently suspended in thin air.

Do I need to use a pry bar or something to lever it down?
 

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Re: Clio, Lowering Subframe

How many bolts have you removed so far?.Are you trying to just drop one side of the subframe or remove it completely?.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: Clio, Lowering Subframe

Haynes says "lower", but it looks like if I do that, it will put much stress on the bolts at the back, so thought it might just be easier to remove it. But please correct me if i'm worrying about nothing.

Anyway, I have removed the support brackets from the rear of the subframe, have removed the support bars which connect the wing to the suspension/wishbone, have removed the bolts from the front of the subframe and have removed the bolt from the back of the subrame on the left side, and the back bolt on the right side I have undone about halfway at this point.

The subframe is not budging. There is a little tiny bit of play at the front, but that's it. The way the Haynes manual put it, and from the many many threads i've read, it sounds like the frame should just drop once the bolts are removed, but mine doesn't. I was gutted when it stayed there looking solid.

I've found a few threads where they're having the same problem here, but unfortunatley they didn't get any answers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: Clio, Lowering Subframe

Here's a few pictures of the back of the subframe on the left hand side. The back bolt is removed (aswell as the supporting brackets), but the subframe doesn't still seem to want to budge.

The first one is the mount point from the outside, and te second one is the same but from the inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Re: Clio, Lowering Subframe

Ummm... this is going to make me look really loopy now, but two posts ago I need to clarify what I meant. It may have sounded like I was saying the steering was still connected to the subframe when I was trying to get the subframe off, but that's not the case - I indeed did unbolt it at the point advised in the Haynes manual. :eek:
 
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