Independent Renault Forums banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
for the Mr Fixits out there!

a lady friend of mine has a renault clio 2001 Y plate model with 80k miles. the one with the bug eyed round head lights, not the pointy slitty ones like on the ford focus. One of the brake drums is REALLY sticking. I said i would free off her sticking brake (assuming it would be a front caliper) as the only time i have had trouble with drum brakes my dad fixed it and calipers are generally easier to free than drums.

so i started taking it apart and as i expected the drum wouldn't come off. levering with screwdrivers had no effect. I gently carressed it with a hammer. still no movement. i started poking around and looking in the wheel stud holes for a handbrake cable adjuster ratchet - none to be seen. i slackened the handbrake cable off completely (it was slack with the handbrake off anyway) and it still wouldnt move.

there is no inspection cover. I tried removing the ABS wheel speed sensor to give an inspection hole by taking the securing screw out but it would not come out. All the haynes manuals for vaxhauls and peugeots that i have lying around say similar things about inspection covers and/or poking release mechanisms. A trip to halfords to look in the Haynes manual for her particular car bore no fruit as they didnt have one for that model and the older model they did have said "push the adjuster mechanism inwards then slide it rearwards" there is no adjuster mechanism visible through the stud holes.

i had to admit defeat and postpone fixing it untill next weekend.

help! please! i dont wanna look useless infront of her again! plus she cant afford a garage at the moment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
i have consulted the oracle that is my dad and he suggested all the things i have tried.

he told me that most handbrake release mechanisms can be poked wiht a screwdriver through the stud holes - i knew about that one - or a screw adjust thing that is usually almost impossible to turn with the drum still on.

so my ideas are now to
-completely release the handbrake cable and shove it into the drum, i only slackened it before.

-try to remove the ABS wheel speed sensor to give an inspection hole (does anyone know how to do this? it is held with one torques head screw but when that is taken off it is still stuck fast. Is it glued in?)

-be a bit more energetic with the hammer and levering with screwdrivers cos it's gotta come off and i think the wheelbearing has had all its grease boiled out it by the sticking brake so not mcuh to loose by abusing the bearing!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,117 Posts
Hi elastoplastscavenger

I have been there in the past,new brake shoes to fit and a stuck brake drum the only way i managed, after trying in vain to release handbrake, was to lever with a tyre lever between the backplate and brake drum, it gave in after a lot of struggling.

On looking at the braking surface in the drum i found it had worn and left a ridge on the outer edge, this is what was holding it on. Carefully grinding the ridge away leaving smooth surface allowed the drum to fit again with ease.

Of course a new drum would be the correct action but where do you get one on a Sunday?

:) :)
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
17,109 Posts
The application of heat is also a possibility to expand the drum to assist removal, but be careful if you use this method (fuel lines, etc).

Paul:)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
40,429 Posts
Sorry if this is insulting,but it's not ment to be!

Have you removed the 30mm nut in the centre of the drum?.

If so,try and get hold of a hydraulic drum puller.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
43,291 Posts
These cars are known to have probs on rear brakes where the lining becomes detached from the shoe - you'll probably find it will have damaged the drum and if its has overheated caused damage to the cylinders. Excessive force using hammers and levers usualy results in damaging the back plate. When the lining comes adrift or the drum becomes excessively worn or damaged all the beating iin the world isn't likely to move it (actually saw a gorilla of a guy actually crack the drum due to enthusiastic thumping and belting with lager hammers and tyre levers). So what do the profesionals do - they use a drawer (most good garages have access to one) which exerts pressure on the brake drum via the centre - force is applied through the centre screw and directly to where it needed. Most drawers are universal and can be used on many makes of cars so it may be a worthwhile investment if you can't borrow or hire one. I seen one for sale recently at a local motor factors for £8 or thereabouts. Repair of brakes should always be done carefully and safely - so don't be assuming it can be done cheaply and I wouldn't recommend using second hand stuff. Brakes are like your best friend - you miss them most when the're not there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Sorry if this is insulting,but it's not ment to be!

Have you removed the 30mm nut in the centre of the drum?.

If so,try and get hold of a hydraulic drum puller.
well it is going to be if the car has done 80k miles without the drums being off! the shoes wear a square edged track/groove into the drum and unless you can get the shoes clear of the groove then its gonna be hard to get the drum off!the reason i need to get the drum off is because the brakes are sticking and hence the shoes are firmly within the groove.

the nut was removed. there was some movement but the shoes were holding it firm so all the movement was from the shoe pivots. i have a bearing puller but it will require some adaptation to make it fit the drum. if i cant get it to fit easily i will use some long bolts in the stud holes and use them to push between the drum and the back plate.

I now have the haynes manual courtesy of ebay so it might have some enlightening ideas. it might be something like romoving the ABS wheel speed sensor to give an inspection window.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
update and solution:
the drum brakes are a standard renault (and many other cars) design where you poke a screwdriver in the stud hole, push the handbrake lever mechanism inwards then slide it rearwards to release the shoes...i just couldnt feel it when i was doing it.

the shoes had delaminated and the friction material on both shoes was not attached to the metal bits!

replaced the shoes both sides, copper eased the moving parts and reassembled. would have been a proper complete fix if i hadnt lost a tiny part of the wear adjusting ratchet mechanism...doh! then found that it wasnt possible to buy a new bit on a saturday and that every clio in my local scrappy was a different design of mechanism and none of those mechanisms could be swapped over to those new pads.

reassembled without the bit i lost which will be replaced in the coming weeks when i get round to it.

anyone happen to have a Y reg, 2001 clio(the one with the big round headlights) bosh wear adjuster mechanism lying around?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
43,291 Posts
Hi Elasto - once that bit disappears the adjuster just winds itself back and the handbrake goes through the roof. On my old Clio I had the same prob -fixed it easliy - wound a nylon cable tie round the rod just in ront of the adjuster nut - clippedi t off short and its been holding for 2 years plus.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
thanks for the idea! if it was my car i would do that but it is a friends car and i wanna do it properly, for peace of mind as much as anything...assuming renault sell the right bit!

i'll ask her if the handbrake is behaving or not. she was instructed that if the brakes werent behaving then to stop driving it as soon as is convenient or ASAP if the peddle was hitting the floor/car pulling either way/no braking effort. MOT on wednesday so i hope it stays reasonably adjusted untill then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
thanks for the idea! if it was my car i would do that but it is a friends car and i wanna do it properly...assuming renault sell the right bit!

i'll ask her if the handbrake is behaving or not. MOT on wednesday so i hope it stays reasonably adjusted untill then.
passed the MOT with £27 of parts and work to replace an anti roll bar bushing (i had told her it needed that but didnt have time to find one and replace it.handbrake appears to be behaving.

a trip to a renault the other day found that they stocked 4 pairs of adjuster mechanisms, only old in pairs at £40 a pair!:crazy: slightly over priced if ya ask me. can anyone recomend an internet scrappy? i have used them before, the type where you fill in a form for a bit online and they txt message you with offers then post the bit to you. i just cant remember any names of the ones i used.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
43,291 Posts
Rear Brakes

What hapened to the old one was it missing when you strted the work or did it fall down and get trapped somewhere. The adjusters are sold in pairs as they are handed - different on each side. Any scrappers near you - it would be best to go and see your getting the correct one as the left is different from the right.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
What hapened to the old one was it missing when you strted the work or did it fall down and get trapped somewhere. The adjusters are sold in pairs as they are handed - different on each side. Any scrappers near you - it would be best to go and see your getting the correct one as the left is different from the right.
like i said i lost a tiny bit off it. also, i went to a scrappy and all 4 cars of the right kinda vintage were a different type of adjuster. i want a bosch one.internet scrappies have served me well before.i only want a left one that works, there's no real need to sell them in pairs other than "do things to the brakes on both sides" but for parts that dont corode or wear i hardly see the need.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
43,291 Posts
Rear drum brakes

Hi elastoplast - everything wears and deteriorates over time. Adjusters are sold in pairs simply because if you have a good one on one side and not the other any adjustment is likely to be unequal (therefore unsafe) and believe me it does make a big difference as on most cars the self adjustings ystem is the first bit of the brakes to go duff. Ask any mechanic. By the way did you adjust the shoes before replacing the drums.:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Having just removed the rear drums on our 1999 clio, I can honestly say, the easiest way I could do it was to remove the wheel bearing circlip ( found inside the hub) and aftter removing the hub nut, jack the thing apart as far as it will come! I had decided that new bearings were in order, after pulling the front hubs, so that wasn't a big issue. They did still require a huge coat of huffing and puffing to remove the drums, along with the shoes etc. Minor damage to the shoe retaining bits was incurred, but I really believe they are designed to be scrapped long before anyone needs to work on the rear brakes............

I now have a very large shopping list.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
43,291 Posts
Did you ensure the handbrake adjustment was fully off before trying to remove the drums and Did you look for the any holes in the back of the drum that lets you put in a small screwdriver to push the internal handbrake lever backwards.
There is a small cheap tool (around £5 TO £7) which aids removal of the drums with minimum damage. See pic attached.

If the drums are generally sound and only have a slight wear ridge at the edge it is possible to grind this ridge off carefully using a small angle grinder:)
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top