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Discussion Starter #1
My Clio is 3 yrs old tomorrow, so I took it for it's MOT today.

It failed on the following;

  1. Nearside and Offside headlamp aim too low
  2. Front brake discs excessively worn (says corroded badly on the invoice)
  3. Nearside front track rod end ball joint has excessive play (says worn to excess on the invoice)
My question is, would Renault consider a front track rod end ball joint wearing in less than 3 years and 32k miles fair wear and tear. It seems an excessively short time/mileage for such a component to wear out.
 

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Welcome to the forum.:)

I doubt very much that Renault would take a warranty claim for a track rod end seriously,unfortunately.:(

I do agree that they should last longer than yours has,but they would class it as wear and tear.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Lag and hello Ottoman

I used to have a Laguna as well. A 2.0RT in silver, without the spoiler unfortunately. Also had a Megane 1.6 in silver.

Anyway, this Clio's failed with more faults than my 14 year old Pug 205 that got written off.

Re the track rod end, the guy on reception said they don't make em like they used to. I thought they were supposed to make em better :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Anyone think my Clio might have been clocked ? I only bought it a month ago. The label on the gear lever looks excessively worn, but no other obvious signs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm looking at GSF's website.

I assume Tie Rod End is the same as Track Rod End ?

and LH = Nearside ?


How do I know if I need Male or Female (not having removed it yet).


The Calipers are stamped TRW. GSF list brake pads for Girling or Bendix calipers, so which one of these would TRW be ?

... or can someone tell me from my chassis number which I'll have ?
 

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Hi Paul - you say the near-side headlamp is out of line and also the track-rod end on the same side - it is possible the car was damaged on that side thus the light being out of alignment and the rod-end showing excessive play. Before buying discs or pads i suggest you take out one pad place it down on a piece of paper and draw round it so you know its shape. Also measure the disks for thickness and diameter and if they are vented (not all Clios have the same size of discs). I know this is a bit of a pain but it may save you money in the long run if you get sent the wrong parts (the carriage on discs can be quite high due to their weight). I suggest you go to a decent motor factors as they will have catalogues with which to match your components and if you speak to them nice many will give you discount. Plus look at the time you'll save and make your car roadworthy again.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm trying to remove the nut which secures the track rod balljoint to the hub.

I've undone it, or at least I thought I had, but it just keeps turning.

Has it broken off inside ? What do I do next if it has ?
 

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Anyone think my Clio might have been clocked ? I only bought it a month ago. The label on the gear lever looks excessively worn, but no other obvious signs.
The gear lever on our 04 Clio is the same with 24K on the clock. The label's just printed on top of the knob rather than being etched/moulded in like it was on earlier examples. I just don't think it lives up to the general wear and tear of repeated gearchanges. Either that, or the previous owners of both our cars have been in the habit of resting their hands on the gear lever while driving.
 

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Hi Paul - I doubt the old track rod end is broken it's probably just turning - if you are going to replace it the new one should come with a new nut - so just saw or grind the old one off. If it fits upwards you could also try putting a jack underneath and apply a bit of pressure to get it to grip.

P.S. Here's a tip - when removing nuts on tapered joints (track-rod ends, lower ball joints, etc) try tightenig the nut before trying to undo it - that way ensures the taper is more likely to remain gripped. It doesn't work every time but it always reduces the risk of it spinning.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Noel

Jacking it worked, but when the nut got to the top of the thread, the threaded section started turning again, as the thread must have been damaged.

I had to cut through the thread, but that was easier than cutting through the nut as well.
 
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