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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone come across a different driveshaft that's not in Haynes Manual.

Have a clio mk2, all I can find is the driveshafts that have the 3 bolt full circle gator plate that bolts onto the engine.

I have a half circular 2 bolt plate and it bolts onto a driveshaft support bearing bracket and then a straight shaft doing into the engine.

I've unbolted everything I can see and can't get the driveshaft out, tryed hammering the shaft out so it comes away at the driveshaft support bearing, tried unbolting the support bracket and pull the hole saft out but it stops and a inch out, tryed hammering the support shaft backing towards the engine to reveal the bearing but didn't move.

Really confused with this driveshaft not in the manual and to why it won't come out in half if it is a 2 part shaft or why its not coming out as a hole unit.

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

Mince
182378
 

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The bracket you show retains the centre bearing on the shaft. The bearing has to be driven out towards the wheel. There is often a pin holding the shaft to the gearbox end. It's hard to see as it's flush with the shaft body. This a double hollow pin which is very tight
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your reply.

Yes it is a retainer for the centre bearing, the bearing is stuck fast so I've unbolted the hole bracket, trying to pull the shaft out stops about a inch to a inch and a half out then stops, there is no retaining pin on the shaft near the centre bearing (in case it was a half split) nor a retaining pin near the engine side.

It's so frustrating, never had a driveshaft not just fall out once unbolted, strange one this :unsure:
 

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If you're sure there is no retaining pin at the gearbox end it just needs helping out with a hammer and chisel. I'm presuming the shaft is out of the hub. At the gearbox end the shaft actually fits over a small output shaft. The splines can become very dry and need a tap to free the shaft. It does all come out as one.
 

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2006 Kangoo Mk1 Phase 2 1.5Dci K9K718 with A/C
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Anyone come across a different driveshaft that's not in Haynes Manual.

Have a clio mk2, all I can find is the driveshafts that have the 3 bolt full circle gator plate that bolts onto the engine.

I have a half circular 2 bolt plate and it bolts onto a driveshaft support bearing bracket and then a straight shaft doing into the engine.

I've unbolted everything I can see and can't get the driveshaft out, tryed hammering the shaft out so it comes away at the driveshaft support bearing, tried unbolting the support bracket and pull the hole saft out but it stops and a inch out, tryed hammering the support shaft backing towards the engine to reveal the bearing but didn't move.

Really confused with this driveshaft not in the manual and to why it won't come out in half if it is a 2 part shaft or why its not coming out as a hole unit.

Any help would be appreciated

Thanks

Mince View attachment 182378
Hi,

It sounds like you have the same design of driveshaft (Part number 8200362064 - Off Side or Driver Side) which I have on my 2006 Kangoo DCi. My outer CV joint and Boot are OK, but the ABS Reluctor ring is deteriorating and needs replacing, but the surface that is mounts on is completely rusted, so an outer CV joint is required.
Did you manage to remove the drives shaft eventually?

Regards

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry for late reply, yes there is a fixing just behind the bearing, exstreamly hard to see once you remove that the bearing will pull out, mine was also seized in the bracket.

Hope that helps and not too late to help you
 

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Hi Mince

Thanks for your reply.
Was the retainer that you found a circular clip that goes around the shaft and snaps into a grove on the driveshaft?

Regards

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That's the one, once that's removed it will slide our unless the bearing is seized into the bracket , then you will have to hammer it out, it don't take much to free it.
 

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Dear Mince

Than for the confirmation of the circlip (a clip shaped like a letter C).

When you removed the driveshaft from the gearbox, did you experience leakage of gearbox oil?
I ask, because when I was replacing the lower suspension ball joint, on the passenger side, the driveshaft fell out, and I lost some gearbox oil, so I am curious if the same is true on the driver side shaft.


Regards

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dear Mince

Than for the confirmation of the circlip (a clip shaped like a letter C).

When you removed the driveshaft from the gearbox, did you experience leakage of gearbox oil?
I ask, because when I was replacing the lower suspension ball joint, on the passenger side, the driveshaft fell out, and I lost some gearbox oil, so I am curious if the same is true on the driver side shaft.


Regards

Russ
Yes unfortunately you will lose some gear oil
 

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Yes unfortunately you will lose some gear oil
OK, as long as I know what to expect. I will probably drain out the oil and add some fresh, as I will taking both driveshafts out.
I had a look at my driveshaft, and found the circlip you mentioned. It is butted right up against the gearbox side of the support bearing.
It looks like if you remove the complete bearing support bracket, (which is bolted to the sump by 3 bolts).
This mount is not the one you pictured in Post 1, but the bracket that this other bracket mounts to, then, you can withdraw the shaft from the gearbox, with the mount still attached to the driveshaft, and remove the circlip in a more convenient location - on the work bench, where you can see what you are doing. This should make removing the bearing a bit easier.
My bearing looks like it could prove difficult to remove by sliding along the shaft, due to surface rust.

I will update this thread if the theory pans out.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Regards

Russ
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Sorry Russ to be a barer of bad news, I tried that and the support bracket won't come out, unfortunately you have to remove the c-clip and then free the support bearing from the bearing support bracket to get the driveshaft out.

In the photo I took, that's the support bracket holding plate to hold the bearing in place from the wheel side.

With yours being a kangoo the support bracket might not catch on the engine like mine but knowing renault and the wisdom of making things difficult as possible I bet it catches, hope it don't as I wanted to pull it all out how you said so I could see and work on it much easier.

Hope all goes well and you manage it the easy way.

Mince
 

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Thanks for the info.

The Kangoo and Clio are identical in that respect, so I bet you are right.

That is typical of Renault - actually all manufacturers - a by product of "efficient" production techniques.

Looking at the manual I have (Portuguese Kangoo Renault Official Manual), it looks like a lot of these operations are to be executed by removing the lower subframe, which brings all the suspension bits with it, otherwise they are impossible with it assembled.

I managed to replace my inner and outer steering tie rods, but had to make a homemade tool to do it, as even commercially available tools would not allow access to the flats on the inner tie rods. The subframe gets in the way.

Thanks again

Regards

Russell
 

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Its getting bottom ball joint out.
If strut is held on to the hub by two bolts. THEN its a doddle..

Undo centre nut on cv.
Jack the car as high as possible on the side you are doing, from under the subframe/wishbone area.
Shove axle stand under the jacking point on the cill..
Undo both bolts, dont remove them, disconnect caliper and hang it up, pull ABS plug away from the body work, THE wire will not reach ..
Take both bolts out of shocker to hub, pull top of hub forward at the same time shove cv back, enough room now for the cv to pull out and past the part of the car where the caliper was ..
REFITTING,..

Because you have an antiroll bar link from the shocker, this makes it slightly awkward
Push hub back into shocker and with a large Philips screwdriver , shove it through the bottom bolt hole, should be able to get top bolt back in now..
You can undo Link arm, But it will be fubar afterwards, as the knuckle turns , and this then always gives a knock,
AND the worst part about this knock, there will be no play in the link arm, and the link arm is then ignored and the knock is obviously ( Idiots ) from somewhere else ..
Even though the knock was not there before, and thats the only thing undone that knocks


Reason get it as High as possible, less or no gearbox oil will pour out
 

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Its getting bottom ball joint out.
If strut is held on to the hub by two bolts. THEN its a doddle..

Undo centre nut on cv.
Jack the car as high as possible on the side you are doing, from under the subframe/wishbone area.
Shove axle stand under the jacking point on the cill..
Undo both bolts, dont remove them, disconnect caliper and hang it up, pull ABS plug away from the body work, THE wire will not reach ..
Take both bolts out of shocker to hub, pull top of hub forward at the same time shove cv back, enough room now for the cv to pull out and past the part of the car where the caliper was ..
REFITTING,..

Because you have an antiroll bar link from the shocker, this makes it slightly awkward
Push hub back into shocker and with a large Philips screwdriver , shove it through the bottom bolt hole, should be able to get top bolt back in now..
You can undo Link arm, But it will be fubar afterwards, as the knuckle turns , and this then always gives a knock,
AND the worst part about this knock, there will be no play in the link arm, and the link arm is then ignored and the knock is obviously ( Idiots ) from somewhere else ..
Even though the knock was not there before, and thats the only thing undone that knocks


Reason get it as High as possible, less or no gearbox oil will pour out
Dear Ours

Thanks for the guide.

Couple of questions so I am clear:

1. Where you say "undo both bolts, don't remove them" I take it you mean the two bolts that hold the lower ball joint to the wishbone arm?
2. On my Kangoo there is no anti roll link from the shock absorber to the hub. I think they only had these links on the 4x4 version, but I might be wrong. I only have the drop link from the anti roll bar to the wishbone - anti roll bar goes from wishbone, towards the rear of the car, roughly under the steering rack area, then on the other side, comes to the other wishbone.

The conversation I was having with the OP (Mince) was how to get the drivers side shaft out, as in our cars, the driveshaft design has an intermediate bearing, which goes through a support bracket. The driveshaft has a circlip that locates in a groove, immediately behind the gearbox side of the bearing. In the picture below, taken from the gearbox (inboard) side of the support bearing, you can just about see the clip, but it is rusty. A screwdriver will allow it to be levered out of the groove.
183631


Mince stated that unless this clip is removed, the shaft cannot be pulled out. I enquired if the that bearing support could removed (it is bolted to the sump), but he states that there isn't enough room to get the shaft out, with the support bracket still attached, so removing the clip and "sliding" the shaft through the support bearing is the only way - easier said than done.
The driveshaft exists the gearbox and goes directly to the bearing, and then the inner CV joint and then an Outer CV joint.
This is the outer side of the support bearing, showing the bearing and the inner CV joint. There are two Torx head bolts (one is shown, just next to the steering fluid pipe) which hold the bearing into the support bracket.
183632

This means that the shaft must be slid through the support bearing, as there is no opportunity to move the shaft "off axis", which would have allowed the support bracket to remain on the shaft.

I will report back once I have completed the job.

Regards

Russell
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Undo them 2 bolts that the red arrows are pointing at, holding the ball joint, no need to remove the tie rod, just swing the hub to the side, like opening a door and the driveshaft with pop out the hub
183633
 

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I don't understand the idea of removing this circlip. Once you've removed the retaining bracket you drive the bearing out with a hammer and blunt chisel. On the rare occasion it proves immpossible you can undo the mount, lever it off the dowels and knock the whole thing out. It is tricky to get it back in this way, but I have done it many times. Key element here is a heavy hammer when you're driving the bearing out.
 
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