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Discussion Starter #1
Against my better judgement, we have bought another second hand Renault. Par for the course - we limped home at 15 miles an hour after a stall at a traffic light.

Engine codes were showing up :
For the throttle valve -
control unit return spring defective
control unit position no ok
control unit adaption error
Also
Driving speed signal CAN communication faulty / signal not plausible
And finally
Combustion failure Cylinder four.

The previous owner had over filled everything; coolant, oil, you name it. We then discovered an oil leak around the valve cover. There was also an incredible amount of gunk under the valve cover and signs of current leak on the coil pack lead for cylinder 4. So here is what we have done:
Cleaned the throttle body with the appropriate cleaner, using the accelerator to open and close the valve so we didn't disturb too much (it was very bad in there and took several doses to clean her out).
New Air Filter and cleaned a significant amount of oil from the box.
Cleaned the breather hoses which were pretty clogged.
Replaced the MAP sensor ( which I accidentally broke removing as I had planned to clean it.)
Put a new gasket on the valve cover.
Drained some of the oil out to get it back to reasonable levels. (I'm toying with the idea of doing a half dose engine flush before removing the rest of the oil and changing the filter. There is a lot of thick sediment in the oil I have already removed but I'm worried over cleaning will expose bigger problems.)
Put new plugs and new coil pack.
All of the above was with just the neg terminal on the battery disconnected.

PROBLEM: When I start the car it revs at 3000 rpm.

As I didn't remove the throttle body per-say, should this really need resetting or is it just the new MAP sensor and how would I go about resetting anything?
Alternatively, if there is air leaking at the intake manifold or anywhere else which is causing this - how would I identify it?
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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Write into google..Renault forums clio Mk3 1.2 throttle body reset..you will find endless answers to your questions and to many to post on here for you..did you put a new gasket on when you refitted the cleaner T/B..if its sucking in air it will be sucking it in from there..
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did not actually remove the Throttle body from its housing, just cleaned it through the air intake after the filter box was removed so the gasket was not disturbed. To remove the valve cover though, I obviously would have removed the Intake manifold with the T/B still attached.
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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I did not actually remove the Throttle body from its housing, just cleaned it through the air intake after the filter box was removed so the gasket was not disturbed. To remove the valve cover though, I obviously would have removed the Intake manifold with the T/B still attached.
And when you removed the inlet manifold did you unplug the T/B..if you did then thats where you went wrong..T/B lost its settings /throttle position so hence the reset..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And when you removed the inlet manifold did you unplug the T/B..if you did then thats where you went wrong..T/B lost its settings /throttle position so hence the reset..
[/QUO
Okay, so yes in order to get the inlet manifold out I would have had to unplug the TB from the wiring circuit. I have gone back to the car and tried to follow the reset instructions of switching the ignition on for a minimum of 30 seconds. I took a video which I will try to attach, but it that fails, the revs started at 3000rpm for a few seconds then fluctates with almost perfect timing between 1900rpm and about 2500rpm, like a one second heartbeat, up and down but it goes on for more than a minute. Is this it doing its thing....should I let it carry on....?
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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The pulsing is where the throttle plate/ICV is searching for the correct setting and obviously not finding it..hopefully one of my fellow moderators Ours2012 who owns his own garage will come on and comment on the problem and find you a fix..I have been through pretty much every post on the forum for every car and surprisingly there are not that many on the clio 3..you did find this one where I made a post..this information came from an actual renault online manual used by renault technicians so if that failed then
180949


 

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Discussion Starter #9
The pulsing is where the throttle plate/ICV is searching for the correct setting and obviously not finding it..hopefully one of my fellow moderators Ours2012 who owns his own garage will come on and comment on the problem and find you a fix..I have been through pretty much every post on the forum for every car and surprisingly there are not that many on the clio 3..you did find this one where I made a post..this information came from an actual renault online manual used by renault technicians so if that failed then
View attachment 180949

I have had a look and I can try again after fully disconnecting the battery. I'll let you know how this turns out once the rain stops.
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Yours could well need resetting with diagnostics..
especially if all adaptions have been corrupted,
But try this..
Dont touch the pedal, switch the ignition on, wait for all noises under the bonnet to stop

WITHOUT touching the accelerator start the car..



Also
Before you did any work on the car, was the throttle body showing the faults listed
Will the faults clear with ignition on, engine off?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yours could well need resetting with diagnostics..
especially if all adaptions have been corrupted,
But try this..
Dont touch the pedal, switch the ignition on, wait for all noises under the bonnet to stop

WITHOUT touching the accelerator start the car..



Also
Before you did any work on the car, was the throttle body showing the faults listed
Will the faults clear with ignition on, engine off?
I was just about to try Phil48's suggestion and disconnect the battery for half an hour but as I hate touching batteries I will try your suggestion first. I had the faults read by Kwikfit and if I'm not mistaken the engine was running when they connected their diagnostics thingy and this was before any work was done. They cleared the faults on my request and I drove her gently a mile and half home with a lot of hesitation and stuttering on acceleration and then proceeded with the work.

Out of interest how long should it take before all the noises under the engine stop?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I was just about to try Phil48's suggestion and disconnect the battery for half an hour but as I hate touching batteries I will try your suggestion first. I had the faults read by Kwikfit and if I'm not mistaken the engine was running when they connected their diagnostics thingy and this was before any work was done. They cleared the faults on my request and I drove her gently a mile and half home with a lot of hesitation and stuttering on acceleration and then proceeded with the work.

Out of interest how long should it take before all the noises under the engine stop?
To be safe, I left the ignition on for a full 30 seconds just to make sure my old ears were not missing any subtle sounds. Without touch any peddles, I started the engine and had the same result. Starts with really high revs then starts hunting as in the video. I am going to try the disconnecting the battery now and see how that goes but coffee is necessary.
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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If you dislike handling batteries Belinda get your husband/partner or a friend to do it..the only have to undo a couple of connections on the battery..but there is a right way and wrong way of doing that..disconnect the NEGATIVE first and then the positive reconnect the positive first and the negative last..on that pic disconnect the 2 nuts on top but dont disconnect the positive until you have disconnected the negative..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Bad news, both
If you dislike handling batteries Belinda get your husband/partner or a friend to do it..the only have to undo a couple of connections on the battery..but there is a right way and wrong way of doing that..disconnect the NEGATIVE first and then the positive reconnect the positive first and the negative last..on that pic disconnect the 2 nuts on top but dont disconnect the positive until you have disconnected the negative..
He is at work today but I have managed - (I have a small childhood history with power sources so always approach over-cautiously !) The bad news is both methods of attempting the reset have made no difference.
 

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Sexy at 70 super duper mod..
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Bad news, both

He is at work today but I have managed - (I have a small childhood history with power sources so always approach over-cautiously !) The bad news is both methods of attempting the reset have made no difference.
No luck then..bad news this is..and to be honest if this started after the garage service the car it should have been sorted by them and not return the car to you in this condition..can you confirm it was serviced by a vat registered garage..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
To answer both questions, the MAP sensor is aftermarket - these bad boys are expensive! And the portion of the service that has been done was carried out by myself at home and fairly simple - change the plugs, coil pack, air filter and while changing the air filter spray a bit of purpose made cleaner in the intake. The most complicated thing was removal of the inlet manifold so I could put a new gasket on the valve cover. The removal of the inlet manifold required disconnecting the electrics on the throttle which may be the start of the complications. Question though - I can understand and aftermarket MAP sensor causing small issues, however, while ill-advised and potentially damaging, a car can actually be started and run okay for a short while without one. So would a dodgy one really create this kind of problem from the go and what would happen if just once and for a few seconds, I tried starting the car with the MAP sensor disconnected?
 

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Fairly typical rough and ready check on MAP is to disconnect and start it.
Without signals, ECU defaults to factory settings.
Wouldn't recommend driving around without one connected.
A dodgy one can cause all sorts of issues, whether they are yours is another matter but you would not be the first to fall into the trap of having replaced one, kept digging, secure in the knowledge that it isn't the MAP.... when it could be.

Fault codes you had do seem to point to throttle body though... they were cleared, what has come back?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I agree on the throttle body but had hoped a long overdue clean would rectify that. The drive issue changed completely after I had the codes cleared when they were first read but I have been reluctant to drive the car now with these high revs so do not have new codes. I will see what happens if I try and start it with the MAP disconnected. If this issue improves, I will consider the MAP to be the possible fault.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Not the response I was expecting from the car! I disconnected the plug on the MAP sensor and tried to start the car. It would not. Plenty of juice, starter motor is doing its part. The warning light that looks like a graph of politicians changing their minds comes on as well. I reconnected the MAP sensor and tried again and initially got a little excited as the 3000rpm I've been experiencing for a few seconds before it starts to fluctuate didn't happen but then about five seconds in the revs began to creep up, reach 3000rpm and the whole fluctuation thing started all over again.
 
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