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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Thanks for all the old threads in helping me up to now!

Setting 4 hasn't worked for years and then 1-3 all stopped at the same time and occasionally came back again until now, where speeds 1-4 never work at all.

I started by replacing the heater resistor pack and also the loom and connector as they were burnt out from speed 4 over the years.

The blower is still not working, which doesn't surprise me - I expect the motor is stuck or dead.

However when testing the newly installed resistor pack etc, I'm getting 12v from the heater blower motor connector on all 4 fan speeds. Surely they should start with a low voltage at 1 and build up to 12v at 4? Any ideas what's happening here? FYI the new loom has 2 additional cables into the connector designed to reduce overheating.

Next step is to remove the blower motor and see if it needs replacing. Looks pretty tricky, not sure how much I dare remove around the steering wheel and clutch pedal!

Thanks for any tips and advice as to what I should be doing??
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Its hard for us to understand how you have tested this.
You are putting the meter on the two wires that go to the fan [blower motor], turning the switch and you have your 12 volts.
Is that right..
Could you put a link, or photo on, showing what you have replaced.
We are blind our end
 

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Thanks for your reply. Sorry if I was unclear...

I have replaced both the resistor pack and the loom connector and cabling as seen here:




As the motor is still not spinning at all, I unplugged the heater blower motor and checked the voltage at this connection in order to test my work so far:




Fan speed 0 gave a reading of 0v and then fan speeds 1, 2, 3, 4 all gave me readings of 12v. I was expecting the resistor pack to drop the voltage for the lower speed settings in order to slow the blower motor down. Is this normal?

Next thing I was asking is if anyone had any tips for removing the motor as the guides I've read all sound a bit intimidating....

Thanks again
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Never done one, so dont know, its saying just under 4 hours.. to remove and install .
Would be very tempted first to make two leads up, to test the motor before removing from the car.
Then go from there, if still not spinning then remove half the car to get it out..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Good idea, thanks!

Anyone else got any clues as to why the fan speeds 1 through to 4 are all outputting 12v to the motor? Is this normal or do I have another problem!?
 

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Super fantastic Mod Technical Supremo Nice Guy
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Would check if your fan motor is working first. Might need this circuit before the multifunction computer adjusts the power supply..
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Today is the day - attempting to remove the fan/motor.

I understand I need to remove the dash cross member before I can remove the footwell ventilator duct...(to make space to manoeuvre the fan assembly)



The bottom bolts (not in picture) came off nice and easy with a 13mm socket. However these top two look like torx 40 and wont budge. How do I get these off?!? Have already shed some blood, hoping theres a simple answer!

Thanks a lot
 

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Discussion Starter #8
For those facing similar problems - mine is all sorted so thanks for the help along the way.

I had two issues - firstly the fan speed 4 had failed some time ago due to burnt out connections on the resitor pack multi-plug. Secondly, the blower motor itself failed later down the line so no fan speeds were working at all.

I replaced: the resistor pack, cabled to a blower motor plug (£12.50)
resistor pack wiring loom (£12.50 plus a pack of butt connectors)
2nd hand blower motor (£18.00)
all from eBay

Some notes:

- I kept the steering wheel in place but the clutch pedal had to come out to make space for fan removal
- I removed the plastic cover from the bottom of the steering wheel assembly to give me a bit more space in the footwell
- fuse box holder (2 plastic clips from behind), supporting strut/dash cross member (4 bolts) and driver's footwell air vent (3 torx screws) all have to come out, in listed order
- taking the motor assembly away from the motor back plate (black plastic part with the socket) appears to be essential in removal and refitting
(see here)​
- The resistor pack cables that run to the motor socket were routed deep under the dash so I snipped both ends off and pulled the loose cables through. With the glove box out I could easily reroute the replacement behind the air con controls / radio, etc.
- voltage on the motor plug was reading 12v across all fan speeds but once all plugged up, the fan speeds were functioning correctly


Hope all that helps the next person with fan issues.
 

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Sorry to jump on this post late, how easy was it to unplug the heater blower motor? I am at a point where I have changed the resistor pack and plug, disconnected the heater control until and no signs of burning and used electrical connection cleaner but to no luck, worked intermittently when hitting down by the clutch but not working at all now so just want to check I am getting 12v to the motor before taking it to the garage for motor to be replaced?

P.s just so you know for future reference the resistor creates a resistance of the current hence changing to fan motor speed it doesn’t change the voltage which is why you will get 12v output on all speeds but if you checked the current (amps) this should vary

Thanks
Wil
 
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